DoorKing 6100 swing gate operator

[Donald]

Our HOA has this gate operator for a pair of large swing gates. It's 20+ years old. Gate company says it's really old and should be replaced at around $8K. But same model is being sold today. Maybe upgraded guts.

Gate company having problems figuring out the odd problems it's having. Opening two feet and stopping.

One of the problems was the main gear was missing teeth after someone hit the gate. (DSP car).

So as HOA president I will read the manual for the correct revision number for the circuit board and go to troubleshooting.

And you thought HOA president was a leadership position!!

I know BITOG guys like pictures.

 

[97prizm]

The geared wheel looks like it needs fresh lube/grease and a cover over it. My local airport had a Similar issue with one of the chain driven sliding gates.

 

[97K15004WD]

The wear pattern on the major gear looks completely worn out. Unit might be stopping due to overcurrent condition due to gear teeth.

 

[Donald]

Maybe hard to see but the main gear is missing 5 or so teeth I assume from when a car hit the gate. Teeth rip off the fiberglass gear to protect the rest of the opener. That gray greasy gear has been replaced.

This is the slave opener. Very simple control board. The master is the other opener with the main circuit board. It controls most of the function for both. The master gate operator was not involved when the one gate was hit.

 

[Nukeman7]

My suspicion is that the worm gear is slipping when it gets to the missing teeth on the large fiberglass gear. I would start by replacing the gear with the broken teeth. This could even be intermittent based upon variables such as temperature and where the drive unit sensor "parks" after running for the pre-programmed duration. I would not troubleshoot the electronics until the broken gear was replaced.

 

[Pablo]

My suspicion is that the worm gear is slipping when it gets to the missing teeth on the large fiberglass gear. I would start by replacing the gear with the broken teeth. This could even be intermittent based upon variables such as temperature and where the drive unit sensor "parks" after running for the pre-programmed duration. I would not troubleshoot the electronics until the broken gear was replaced.

Me too, but he says..........

Maybe hard to see but the main gear is missing 5 or so teeth I assume from when a car hit the gate. Teeth rip off the fiberglass gear to protect the rest of the opener. That gray greasy gear has been replaced.

So I am confused.............

 

[Donald]

The gear with the missing teeth was replaced. We were hoping/thinking that would fix everything. That gear is in the slave opener.

But now when the button is pressed the master gate moves a few feet and stops. It's not a mechanical issue now, it's a problem with an adjustment or sensor or the circuit board is broken in the master.

While old, this is a commercial gate opener. Needs to meet various safety standards. It has 3 sensors in the pavement to detect the metal in a car. One electric eye. And a sensor that detects the clutch is allowing things to slip (so you give up rather than the gate trying to mush something or someone.)

Gate company seems stumped. I think they are not familiar with the older versions of the DoorKing 6100 opener.

 

[Donald]

I keep reading the manual and trying things. DKS has answered a few questions but will only work with a DKS trained technician to troubleshoot the problem.

The gate opener company that was stumped must be still stumped as they have not gotten back to me.

The main circuit board is $600 and easy to install. It's got a 2005 date and the board sits on top of an gate opener that vibrates 50 times a day as it opens and closes the gate.

Given the boards age I may just try replacing the board.

 

[Pablo]

I keep reading the manual and trying things. DKS has answered a few questions but will only work with a DKS trained technician to troubleshoot the problem.

The gate opener company that was stumped must be still stumped as they have not gotten back to me.

The main circuit board is $600 and easy to install. It's got a 2005 date and the board sits on top of an gate opener that vibrates 50 times a day as it opens and closes the gate.

Given the boards age I may just try replacing the board.

Have you cleaned the board and checked the solder and components?

What is the circuit board part number?

 

[Donald]

Have you cleaned the board and checked the solder and components?

What is the circuit board part number?

See picture. The replacement is 4502-012.

I figure with electronics like this a 20 year life span is reasonable. I can replace the board and hope it solves the problem. If it does great, if it does not then we have a new board and can continue troubleshooting. Or return the board.

If I find a gate company that knows what they are doing the board will probably be over $1000. More like $1200 or $1500.

 

[Pablo]

There are a couple in box on Ebay, look to be NOS. ~$500 but if you can get $600 from an authorized seller, then maybe not worth it

In the meantime, me I would clean that board and rinse well with isopropanol

 

[Donald]

There is a company on eBay for $5 where you "buy" their item and the item is an agreement for you to mail in the board and they will evaluate. That's what the $5 pays for. Obviously they will charge more to repair.

 

[Pablo]

There is a company on eBay for $5 where you "buy" their item and the item is an agreement for you to mail in the board and they will evaluate. That's what the $5 pays for. Obviously they will charge more to repair.

I saw that. Was unsure if real deal.

Cost nothing to clean and dry first. Could be a bug or dust/salt bridge. I still say worth a shot. Just get some pure DI water and softish brush first clean, maybe same with a drop or two of Dawn in gallon of H20 and same pure water - two rinses with DI, rinse with isopropyl, dry very well and give 'er a go.

 

[Donald]

I ordered new & sealed board on eBay for $485. I was going to order one on Amazon for more $$ (but returnable) but the listing in one section said the brand was LA Boutique and another DoorKing. And the description said 4502-012 but when looking at the picture it was a 4502-010. Just a suspicious listing.

But I don't believe there are enough of these DoorKing gate operators sold that a company would actually make aftermarket boards.

 

[facility1]

is that/there a tension adjustment on the ring gear to the worm, as this maybe jumping or slipping, it can be adjusted and you might see if the ring gear can be flipped over and turned 180 deg,so newer teeth can engage better,and clean this thing up and properly lube,,tighten and replace belt and check pully alignment , the control arm to gate maybe bent as well & there might be linkage adjustments too.

 

[facility1]

See picture. The replacement is 4502-012.

I figure with electronics like this a 20 year life span is reasonable. I can replace the board and hope it solves the problem. If it does great, if it does not then we have a new board and can continue troubleshooting. Or return the board.

If I find a gate company that knows what they are doing the board will probably be over $1000. More like $1200 or $1500.

View attachment 244582

is Q07 a adjustment??,cant tell in picture, if so examine this also, as it could be for gate depth or close/open range.

 

[Donald]

is Q07 a adjustment??,cant tell in picture, if so examine this also, as it could be for gate depth or close/open range.

From my reading of the manual the only adjustment on the board is the delay it stays open before closing. It figures out the open and close limit on its own at initial power up. There is a clutch that allows slippage and a pulse sensor that "sees" the slipping. This assumes that mechanically the gate and the arms were all installed properly which they were.

 

[Donald]

A replacement board arrived but they shipped the wrong part number. Like a comedy of errors trying to gate the working properly.

 

[Donald]

Well the correct control board arrived and was installed and fixed most problem but not all. Still issues with the magnetic pulse sensor that detects the motor running but the gate not moving.

Looking at things more closely and I see that the main shaft wobbles so a bearing or bushing is worn. When it wobbles the magnetic pulse sensor does not work properly and stops the gate.

So a housing with the shaft, gear and clutch is on order.

I did not set our to become a gate repair tech.

 

[Donald]

Well I replaced the main housing in the primary opener which is basically everything thing in the opener except the motor and circuit board. No change.

Next the main housing in the secondary opener.