Doing control arms and its not smooth...

[buck91]

So I am working on replacing the front control arms on my 1996 Mustang with some direct replacements. Its a bit of a PITA, but its get'n there. Anyways, I had heard many people gripe that the lower coils on the front springs are always always always broken, and mine was no different. I do not know why I didn't plan for this, it just much have escaped my mind. Anyways, I was thinking about just running them for now. I have no doubt it will sit lower and ride rougher, but how much of a drop would, basically, one full coil off the bottom of my non-progressive OEM springs result it? Also, should I trim them up so the coil terminates at a 90* angle like before they broke(tangential end)? I'm thinking so, as this would have the additional benefit of allowing me to ensure they are both broke/cut at the exact same spot.

*sigh* And ALL the parts stores are out of front springs in my area...

 

[Inspecktor]

Try a industrial spring/suspension shop, such as one that caters to trucking and construction equipment companies. Often they can get springs quickly, sometimes make them on site.

 

[Merkava_4]

RockAuto has MOOG coil springs in stock and they ship fast.

Driving your Mustang around with a missing coil spring rung puts your oil pan at risk.

 

[buck91]

Nice, even cheaper than amazon and they must be in a nearby warehouse; $10 for 2 day shipping (although on a Friday night 2 day means Wednesday...). Still, $40 cheaper than local and nobody has them in stock.

 

[bdcardinal]

Too bad you aren't closer. I am ready to throw the front springs from my 95 away, they are useless to me.

 

[novadude]

When I did them on my '95 GT years ago, getting the bolts out of the control arms was very difficult. The bolts had rusted to the inner bushing sleeve. I fought with it for hours! Good luck!

 

[buck91]

novadude, I had a similar experience with a mid-90's Crown Victoria and was very worried about the 'stang. Only dropped the driver side so far, but the bolts came out SUPER EASY and actually didn't even have any rust except on the exposed threads. Sure hope the passenger side comes out as easily.

Any tricks to removing and installing the rear bolts? It seemed like the subframe/k-member bolt head was in the way so I just ground the flange off the bolt coming out. Not sure what I'm going to do going back in...

 

[bdcardinal]

Ya those back bolts are no fun to get back in. Can't really help with advice on that because I always put aftermarket arms back in that had bespoke low profile bolts.

 

[buck91]

I actually tried to pop the subframe bolt out, but it just spun so either the welded nut broke loose or I need to figure out how and where to get a wrench into to secure it. Its just one, though and the way its set it should have redundency. Otherwise I might justreuse the bolt I ground the edge off.

 

[Lubener]

I have had many Fords as you speak and have had broken coils. Rust and a poor design. You are going to have them in your hands while replacing the arms, don't screw around, change them while you have it apart.It will ride poorly(and bottom out) and likely soon break again if you try j rigging and reusing them.The rest of the suspension will get trashed as well.Do it right.

 

[buck91]

Well, this is just the simple job from [censored]. Found some local springs, but since they are stock length they are too long and too heavy to manually pop/pry in there so I went to autozone and rented the 27035 spring compressor figuring no big deal, should work fine. NOPE. Everything is back but I can't get the [censored] compressor top clamp out. I'm so frustrated, looks like it will all have to come apart again and I need a $190 OTC tool (7045B) if I want to reinstall stock length springs. Seriously??

 

[The_Jeff]

Start over, get that spring compressor out of there.

Either go with an external spring compressor (like HF's $15 one) or disconnect the shock so you can lower the LCA another inch or two and pry the spring in the put a jack under the LCA to bring it up enough to re-bolt the shock. Don't let the geometry get so bad the spring will want to jump from its perch and knock your teeth out, obviously.

 

[Lubener]

You will need to compress the spring, you can get by on rears with some prying but not the fronts.You risk that thing springing out at you. I remember on my fords there were two small holes in the spring seat of the LCR. The spring pigtail must end up between the two small holes, don't shove it all the way to the stop.

 

[buck91]

I am really surprised by this ordeal, should have not been this tough.

Anyways, couple guys on the mustang sites have had success with leaving the ball joint and spindle connected but using a pair of jacks under the a-arm bolts to position the arm and compress the spring at the same time. I'd pretty skeptical of this route as I know how positional that arm is in order to get everything lined up, but if it saves $200 on the OTC 7045B tool then its definitely worth it. Once this rain passes it'll be time to start over and try that route.

 

[The_Jeff]

You can/ should run a safety chain all the way up through the spring and its top/ bottom mounts while you mess with it.

I've done macpherson strut springs. Where those are more inboard on the LCA they look like real thick bruisers.