Does putting automatic car in neutral for long idling periods relieve any engine/transmission stress?

While in gear and stopped the TC is baking the trans fluid and using more fuel as the engine power is converted directly to heat within it. The amount of money you'll save in fuel alone over the long term would help pay for a new trans if you ever need one. and the cooler temps of the fluid may also help the trans live longer. Heat in the trans is the enemy ...not the wear on a shift linkage. How many of you have had your car completely jacked over up by an ASE mechanic? i rest my case.
 
While in gear and stopped the TC is baking the trans fluid and using more fuel as the engine power is converted directly to heat within it. The amount of money you'll save in fuel alone over the long term would help pay for a new trans if you ever need one. and the cooler temps of the fluid may also help the trans live longer. Heat in the trans is the enemy ...not the wear on a shift linkage. How many of you have had your car completely jacked over up by an ASE mechanic? i rest my case.

You rest your case because a mechanic jacked your car up? Yeah, I don't see how anyone could counter that point.

If you want to pop back and forth between D and N every time you get to a stop be my guest.
 
You rest your case because a mechanic jacked your car up? Yeah, I don't see how anyone could counter that point.

If you want to pop back and forth between D and N every time you get to a stop be my guest.
...I see a red light ahead ...I pop neutral and coast in. I sit there for 45 seconds or more saving gas and circulating/cooling the fluid ...just like a manual trans. light turns green and i have at least another 10 seconds to pop drive before the phone distracted drivers in front of me wake up and start moving. Then the auto doesent have me clutching and shifting. ...pretty easy actually.

ASE mecanics arent all are bad. it is like any other profession ...a handfull of really good ones and also some clueless part changer hacks. Point is not all ASE's opions are sure thing.
 
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...I see a red light ahead ...I pop neutral and coast in. I sit there for 45 seconds or more saving gas ...just like a manual trans. light turns green and i have at least another 10 seconds to pop drive before the phone distracted drivers in front of me wake up and start moving. Then the auto doesent have me clutching and shifting. ...pretty easy actually.

So you save fuel by idling to a stop than letting the ECU shut off the injectors and run the engine on a vacuum, which uses no fuel and also saves brakes due to engine braking.

Pretty smart.
 
So you save fuel by idling to a stop than letting the ECU shut off the injectors and run the engine on a vacuum, which uses no fuel and also saves brakes due to engine braking.

Pretty smart.
My vehicle rarely if ever goes into fuel cutoff and engine braking if left in gear slowing down without a load or towing. In fact the opposite is true and can be easily seen in the ECU target RPM maps with tools to do so.

Simple truth is ppl don't need an ASE to tell you that the running engines power in a stopped vehicle is converted to heat in the TC while in gear. and that us usually a bad thing overall. How much engine power is converted to heat? If you let off the brake and the vehicle moves forward how much power is that? 25, 35, ...50 ft/lbs of torque at idle? ...being shunted to heat in the TC.

Im surprised no one had their ASE comment about auto engine stop. ...doesent that wear out the starter? ...wow that must be hard on an expensive battery? jeez how can completely stopping the engine and starting at every stop light not be wearing out all the support components? ...but you find a lot of non ASE's looking to disable stop/start on forums. hmmmm really confused now.
 
My vehicle rarely if ever goes into fuel cutoff and engine braking if left in gear slowing down without a load or towing. In fact the opposite is true and can be easily seen in the ECU target RPM maps with tools to do so.

Simple truth is ppl don't need an ASE to tell you that the running engines power in a stopped vehicle is converted to heat in the TC while in gear. and that us usually a bad thing overall. How much engine power is converted to heat? If you let off the brake and the vehicle moves forward how much power is that? 25, 35, ...50 ft/lbs of torque at idle? ...being shunted to heat in the TC.

Im surprised no one had their ASE comment about auto engine stop. ...doesent that wear out the starter? ...wow that must be hard on an expensive battery? jeez how can completely stopping the engine and starting at every stop light not be wearing out all the support components? ...but you find a lot of non ASE's looking to disable stop/start on forums. hmmmm really confused now.

Vehicles with start/stop systems are designed differently than ones without them. The starter is more robust to be able to take on the added cycles. The batteries are also typically AGM and not lead-acid while also being connected to upgraded alternators. So your entire argument is pointless in this regard. It's like saying if a Corvette can handle 24 hrs of LeMans than that stock one at the dealership should be able to as well.

In the end you're of course free to do whatever you want with your car. But if you're that intent on saving fuel where every drop matters at the expense of everything else, I'd recommend trading whatever vehicle you have for a more fuel efficient one.

Just don't try to pass off your beliefs as the de facto standard because they're not true.
 
While in gear and stopped the TC is baking the trans fluid and using more fuel as the engine power is converted directly to heat within it. The amount of money you'll save in fuel alone over the long term would help pay for a new trans if you ever need one. and the cooler temps of the fluid may also help the trans live longer. Heat in the trans is the enemy ...not the wear on a shift linkage. How many of you have had your car completely jacked over up by an ASE mechanic? i rest my case.
At idle? there isn't that much heat getting generated.

Now compare the heat being made while accelerating and/or running up a long hill.
 
At idle? there isn't that much heat getting generated.

Now compare the heat being made while accelerating and/or running up a long hill.

I just cut out a cover in the footwell. When I need to get going or am approaching a hill I just pop it into neutral and use my feet flintstones style. The added wear and tear on the ATF isn't worth it.
 
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You rest your case because a mechanic jacked your car up? Yeah, I don't see how anyone could counter that point.

If you want to pop back and forth between D and N every time you get to a stop be my guest.

Nobody in this thread so far has said "every time you get to a stop." So if you must exaggerate to try to score points, you haven't.

The prevailing view thus far is that when needing to stop FOR EXTENDED PERIODS, it saves wear on the Trans by shifting to N.
 
I just cut out a cover in the footwell. When I need to get going or am approaching a hill I just pop it into neutral and use my feet flintstones style. The added wear and tear on the ATF isn't worth it.
Two nonsensical responses in the same thread. Time for the ignore button.
 
Nobody in this thread so far has said "every time you get to a stop." So if you must exaggerate to try to score points, you haven't.

The prevailing view thus far is that when needing to stop FOR EXTENDED PERIODS, it saves wear on the Trans by shifting to N.

If you're stopped for extended periods, that's called "parking" at which point you should move it up to P and maybe go get a coffee and a slice of pizza.
 
Two nonsensical responses in the same thread. Time for the ignore button.

I gave you plenty of explanations. You just keep changing the scenario until you can get the answer you're looking for. Next up, "if I'm going to be outside of the vehicle for extended periods, should I turn it off?"
 
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