Does anybody run 10W-40 Anymore?
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I run it in my F150 w/the 4.9. Why? Because I always have, I guess.
My 2.5L Jeep sees 10W40, Delo 15W40, and Delo SAE30 (which I'm running now).
Simple - to cut down on burning oil. I have a 96 Acura 3.2L 6 cyl with 155k miles with worn valve stem seals. Switching from Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 to Pennzoil High Mileage 10w40 got me from 800 miles/quart to 1500 miles/quart. Didn't affect engine performance or gas mileage. The extra viscosity gives the engine a "tighter feel" - more oil pressure I guess. Anything to avoid an engine re-build or new car, neither of which I can afford without a winning lottery ticket.
The manual contrasts "energy conserving" oils versus regular oils, all SAE SH, but not synthetic versus dino. (Unless "energy conserving" means "synthetic," but I have seen Castrol GTX with "energy conserving" on the label.) My reading of the chart is that any state-of-the-art dino heavier than 5w30 should be fine. The only admissible older conventional oils are pretty heavy, e.g. 15w40, which would give me some cold start wear concerns.
I use Havoline 10w40 in my 1993 F-150-4.9 L6.When I bought the vehicle in 1995 it had 30,000 miles on it it now has 166,000 miles on it and still going strong-does not burn ANY oil at all.I also use the same oil in my MTD riding mower-12.5 Briggs engine that I bought in 1992.I change the oil it the mower every spring.No oil filter on it. It also does not use any oil.
I have complete trust in Havoline 10w40 conventional.
I have complete trust in Havoline 10w40 conventional.
using Castrol magnatec 10W40 in Mazda Turbo for RX clean phase. Bad choice as it has ester content (you live and learn). BITOG UOA section has some amazing 10W40 used oil analysis.
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John, I'm familiar enough with the VW/Auid oil charts to know which oils they mean. It's a bit unclear in the US version of the manual.
"energy conserving" oils (column 1 were at that time ( and still are) friction-modified oils that met VW 500.00 (now VW 502), and NONE of those oils were mineral oils. Look at the ambient temp range. For column A there is no restriction in terms of voscosity and ambient temperature.
The multiviscosity oil grades listed in column 2 were oils that met VW 501.01, a now defunct spec. VW does not even allow those oils anymore in newer motors.
That's an understatement, and that's the sort of thing which got them in big (and completely preventable) trouble with the 1.8T "coke habit."
But how about TODAY's oils, such as a good "high-mileage" dino?
I consider synthetic oil essential in my 1.8T, although there are some non-502.00 options I would consider safe. I consider synthetic oil a waste in my Dodge Stratus, which is on a tight OCI for city driving. I had put the Audi 2.8 12V in the same category as the Dodge, and the first owner (and his local Audi dealership) kept it on a steady diet of 10w30 conventional. I currently have a blend of HM and Group III "synthetic" in it, and based on your comments, I may stick with at least Group III oils from now on. I genuinely appreciate your inputs; I am a student on oil selection.
I grabbed over 3 dozen quarts of Syntec SM 10w-40 when WM was clearing it's shelves for $1.50 each. I plan on running a used oil analysis or two on this product.
I have a 93 Saab 9000 and the manual says 10-40 or 15-40 in a pinch. I run Delo 400 14-40 here in Miami.
Generally SL will have around 1000 ppm zinc and phosphorus, whereas SM will be more like 700 to 800. You can always boost the z and p with an add like CD2 Street Legal High Performance Oil Boost ($1.99 clearance at Big Lots!). Half a bottle should make SM into SL. A whole bottle is even better.
I used to run Maxlife conventional 10W-40 in a 1991 Toyota Corolla that I no longer own. The car had about 200k on the clock and had been beaten on pretty badly by the previous owner. It would lose about a quart every 2000 miles. I switched to 10W-40 to slow the oil loss, but it did not slow the consumption significantly over 10w30. The only thing it did was make the car harder to start. Had I been able to do it all over again I would have Auto-RXed it. Anyway, I was not impressed with 10W-40.
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