10w-40 motor oils

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I have always heard and read that 10w-40 oils were a bad idea b/c of viscosity index improvers being inherently unstable and that they left deposits and such in the engine. Now with modern 40wts (0w-40, 5w-40) this seems to not be the case anymore. I am wanting to run a 40wt synthetic or blend in my Nissan and Isuzu for protection and experimentation reasons. Now my question is: Would a synthetic 10w-40 such as Syntec or Syntec Blend be stable enough for say a 4-5k drain? Thanks
 
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quote:
Originally posted by ncirish: Would a synthetic 10w-40 such as Syntec or Syntec Blend be stable enough for say a 4-5k drain?
I believe so and if not brand loyal the Mobil HM PAO blend in the 10w-40 wt just might be a heck of a sleeper . BTW , have you seen the new spec added to the Castrol 10w-40 GTX ? It now is a ISLAC GF-3 EC oil like the Syntec 10w-40 is .
 
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Not sure about leaving deposits and stuff, but I tried 10w40 GTX in my aspire for 2000 miles. Lots noisier, but didn't notice any other difference. Of course, it was a 2000 mile autorx rinse phase.
 

Al

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quote:
Originally posted by ncirish: I have always heard and read that 10w-40 oils were a bad idea b/c of viscosity index improvers being inherently unstable and that they left deposits and such in the engine. Now with modern 40wts (0w-40, 5w-40) this seems to not be the case anymore. I am wanting to run a 40wt synthetic or blend in my Nissan and Isuzu for protection and experimentation reasons. Now my question is: Would a synthetic 10w-40 such as Syntec or Syntec Blend be stable enough for say a 4-5k drain? Thanks
Yes. Did you check any UOA's??
 
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I'd like to see a good run on Syntec 10W-40 and do a uoa. I haven't gotten a chance to try it yet, but I want to.
 

ncirish

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Yeah I have looked through the UOA's (which is where I roiginally and erroneously posted this thread) and did not find much info. The Syntec 10w-40 intrigues me since a 10w-X is fine in my climate and I have been a Castrol man until learning about the wonders of Chevron/Havoline (and it's a wonder since my grandfather workd for Texaco for 30 years). Now if I ran the Syntech 10w-40, would a 4-5k oci be appropriate? Too little or too much? The vehicles see lots of short trips unfortunately so that plays into my desire for at least a synthetic belnd. Would the Syntec Blend work ok at the 4k oci? Is there any another blend that would be better (Mobil Drive Clean Plus comes to mind)? Thanks guys!!
 

ncirish

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Sorry about that Motorbike. I should have looked up at the thread. Knew I could not have thought that up on my own [Razz] Question, does it come in 10w-40?
 
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Yep it comes in a 10w-40 [Smile] Data sheet The price of this oil has been decreased to 2.08 per quart at some places . That's around 10 bucks for a 5 quart jug any old way you look at it so it's the same price or even lower than other HM oils except you get PAO and better low temp performance and probable better hi-temp oxidation stability in theory .
 

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quote:
Originally posted by ncirish: Is there any another blend that would be better (Mobil Drive Clean Plus comes to mind)? Thanks guys!!
Well this is a 15W-40, but it is good stuff. Schaeffer's
 
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I used MaxLife 10W-40 in my Jaguar XJ6 and it ran pretty good through the winter time. When i use Delvac 1300S in the summer (15W-40 HDDEO) i notice that the car idles smoother and settles to an idle faster than with the maxlife so for most of the year delvac is in the crankcase unless it gets too cold.
 

ncirish

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Motorbike, that Mobil blend is very intriguing! I really like the looks of what the data sheet shows. I do believe it would benefit the Trooper the most. Are there any UOA or VOA on it?
 
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quote:
Originally posted by therion: I used MaxLife 10W-40 in my Jaguar XJ6 and it ran pretty good through the winter time. When i use Delvac 1300S in the summer (15W-40 HDDEO) i notice that the car idles smoother and settles to an idle faster than with the maxlife so for most of the year delvac is in the crankcase unless it gets too cold.
You're probably gonna destroy your engine though! [Roll Eyes]
 
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Originally posted by Jason Troxell: But I thought those small B&S motors used splash oiling (no pump), so thickness should have a much more pronounced effect.
Whether or not you move oil with a paddle on the end of a crank , pump it with a pump or clear it out of the way with the side beam of a connecting rod it takes energy to do so . This test is at idle so a well friction modded oil does not come into play.... yet. It takes about 40hp to spin a Vertex Magneto 7k rpm and only the motors with Roots style blowers on them use these mag's anylonger because of HP lost . They are used for reliability cause you can't have a load of nitro or methanol in a cylinder without the ignition , anyway when priming an oil pump with a 1800 rpm drill motor you can feel the torsional difference between a 16cSt and a 10cSt oil bigtime at ambient of around 70F . Think about this in an engine , day in year out . The higher the vi @ 40c , the more fuel consumed during warm-up phase on these passenger car engines . The stuff is really quite hard to move [ May 14, 2004, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Motorbike: ... The higher the vi @ 40c , the more fuel consumed during warm-up phase on these passenger car engines .
No doubt about it. D1 is almost twice as thick as M1 5w-30 at that temp.
 
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Originally posted by Jelly: Motorbike, Thank you for bringing up a valid point and not simply bashing the HDEO's... [Cheers!]
I have never bashed Diesel oils period . They are very good at dispersing soot and handling the fuel contamination in the engines they are designed for in very long intervals of use . [ May 14, 2004, 01:25 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Motorbike: Yep it comes in a 10w-40 [Smile] Data sheet The price of this oil has been decreased to 2.08 per quart at some places . That's around 10 bucks for a 5 quart jug any old way you look at it so it's the same price or even lower than other HM oils except you get PAO and better low temp performance and probable better hi-temp oxidation stability in theory .
Ya know, I've tried a lot of oil on my Trooper to see which can reduce most of the consumption and so far the 10w40 GTX Blend seems to be best BUT the Exxon/Mobil Superflow at $2.08 at AutoZone seems to burn off less too(even compare to M1 15-50).
 
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pinoy99 These HM oils might just be the cats meow for many engines today. The additive packs are pretty stout and TBN retention is very good . True modern HD multi vis oils and even some are EC rated now . Most of all is that the Mobil and Citgo HM say they are for any stage of the engines life , old or new so maybe others will follow suite and develop oils harmless to newer engine seals like they have because me [Smile] would rather have Boron , Moly and 1200 ppm zinc than Boron , Moly and 700ppm zinc come API SM [Eek!] I wonder who will be the first to market a HM 5w-20 [Razz]
 
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If 10W40's are so bad why almost all oil companies continue to make them? In Europe all 10W40's are at least A3 rated ,this is good enough for me.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by therion: When i use Delvac 1300S in the summer (15W-40 HDDEO) i notice that the car idles smoother and settles to an idle faster than with the maxlife so for most of the year delvac is in the crankcase unless it gets too cold.
Your perception of your car engine idle is deceiving and there is an easy , cheap test to quantify that it is the viscosity laboring the engine . If you have a small garden tractor or push mower take with a 5w-30wt or similar 10cSt PCMO and while hot set the engine idle just as low as it will run , same day of around 75F ambient change it to a 15w-40 Fleet oil . One does not need a tachometer on a Briggs and Stratton to find it will not idle after this test .
 
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