do you warm up your car/???

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Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke
thank you all!!

sciphi: which exactly block heater would i buy?

also, to all; i would rather use a bit of gas warming up the car, if it saves the car long term!!!!

best

bob



The best types are the Circulation type heaters. They heat and circulate the coolant in the system. The Freeze-plug type only heat up the coolant in the block, which is fine, and these are used all the time by people. They're usually a bit cheaper too. But the circulation type heat the coolant in the block AND the radiator, so that it takes even less time to get up to operating temperature.

I think you can get a Kat's block heater at Advance. They will take coolant from the block, heat it, and then pump it into the heater core hose. That's in most cases. I had to use a T at the Lower radiator hose, which still takes coolant from the block, and do it that way.

I used my Circulation type heater during winter. It is awesome! You can even get a timer for it (these are plentiful during the winter because people use them all the time to turn the Christmas lights on at dusk and turn off at the break of dawn.) so that it only runs at a certain time before you wake up in the morning. Usually about 1-2 before you need to drive it will work.

The Kats circulation type heaters are thermostatically controlled, so after it heats to it's thermostatic limit, you will just waste electricity keeping the coolant warm for the rest of the night. So instead of heating it for 8 hours, get a timer and have it turn on for 2 hours or so before you wake up, and you will have warm coolant for the morning.

They're awesome because in about 30 second to one minute down the road your blowing nice hot air in the wintertime. Your Fuel Economy is also improved because it takes much less time to reach closed loop. But you really forget about it when you realize, you have hot air blowing quick!

I've had mine in the Jeep for about 3 years now. Still works. Don't use it right now because the apartment complex won't let me run an extension cable out to it!
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THAT, and it's also like 95 degrees outside. Not real need for it
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This is simple. First, put a 0W-xx oil in there year round. Second, the PCM will give you the appropriate idle speed, gas and air (ie, richness) that the motor needs. Then drive gently until the coolant is up to temp, then drive normally. This is just common sense.
 
Cold45ws - This is the New version of my Circulation type block heater. I think mine is only 1200w though.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200339137_200339137

It comes with the Y adaptor for the heater core inlet hose, a mounting bracket and some hose clamps along with what I think is the plug that screws into the freeze plug in the block. I had it with mine but couldn't use it because I didn't have the right size tool to fit to take my plug out.

The Kat's heaters are great, and they're not very expensive. They do not come with hose, however, so you will have to supply your own. You can get it at any auto parts store and buy it by the foot, so you only get what you need.
 
On a 0* day when I start my car the RPM's usually rev to ~1500 which is 1k over normal idle. Then I head back into the house, brush my teeth, grab my computer/bag, take a leak and wash my hands.

Then I walk out to my car, at which time is nice and toasty inside, push down the brake, put in neutral, release parking brake, into drive and away we go!

I've found letting the car get to proper temp, with a 10 minute warm up in the winter has yielded the best possible results long term for wear on the engine/other moving parts.
 
Yes. I do. During cold winter, I warm up my car for 4-5 minutes. During hot summer, I warm up for about 2 minutes. It doesn't affect my gas mileage. Because I drive 62 MPH with the cruise control.
 
I put my seat belt on and take the parking brake off before starting the engine. Then when I start it, I immediately put it in gear and drive off gently. Keep the RPMs below 2000 until the temp gauge starts coming off the C end.
 
30 seconds or so. If it doesn't get to full temp by the time you get to work make sure you take it on the highway every once in a while to burn off any moisture.
 
I do if I have to defrost the windshield on a cold winter day. But really only enough to see, then I'm off.

Spring/Summer/Fall? No way! Waste of gas. Start it up, put on seat belts, and hit the road.
 
I don't really warm it up, But I do give it a few seconds...maybe 10 or so. I just feel better knowing that everything is circulating well before I drive. I drive very conservatively with it until the oil temperature is up.

My annoying "must be pushing a pedal at all times/digital on-off driver" friend turns the key fob in his Ram and is already dropping it into gear and stepping on the gas before the engine is even running.

Did that with his Intruder 1400 too. Pushing the starter button while twisting the throttle and dumping the clutch. Then [complaining] how these Suzukis are all "cold natured". Don't know if his FI'd Street Glide will let him do that.
 
Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke
Good morning!!i have a 2008 caddy DTS, northstar v8, and a 2002 Lexus es 300 V6.

usually my commute is 7 miles. have cold, snowy winters. cars are in garage, around 40 degrees at night.

should i warm up my car before driving to work? if so, how many minutes?

i understand that cold startups create engine wear. i use only Mobil 1 synthetic.


thank you!!

Best
bob
You worry too much just drive the car. If you service as recommended and you change the fluids it will last as long as it will last. All the stuff you hear is blather regurgitated mostly by those that have no clue on what they are regurgitated. Cold startup is divided into 2 problems . 1 the wrong choice of oil for the startup temps , you are using syn oil so no need to get into that area. Then there is the metal. The pistons are oval when cold they get round when the engine is at operating temps. Metal expands when hot so the cold clearances are larger than when hot so the more clearances between parts the more wear. Then the oil additives work best when at operating temps so there is more wear. Then to run a cold engine needs a richer mixture so there is a bit more fuel wash on the cyl walls so a bit more wear on and on. Other than a few seconds to get the oil circulated just drive it Sub freezing is different.
 
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