do you warm up your car/???

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Good morning!!i have a 2008 caddy DTS, northstar v8, and a 2002 Lexus es 300 V6.

usually my commute is 7 miles. have cold, snowy winters. cars are in garage, around 40 degrees at night.

should i warm up my car before driving to work? if so, how many minutes?

i understand that cold startups create engine wear. i use only Mobil 1 synthetic.


thank you!!

Best
bob
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
No. Driving is the best way to warm up a car.
I usually wait 30 seconds or so, then roll out.


Agreed. I start up and pull out and wait for the garage door to close. About 20 seconds total. I do drive VERY gingerly until coolant/oil are up to temp. For me that's a few stop lights until I'm merging on the freeway.
 
This has been discussed many times before. Some people warm up their engines some don't. I wait until the tach reaches ~ 1,000 rpm or slightly under and then take off. Slamming into gear or excess rpms while releasing the clutch isn't worth the gas I'm saving by turning the key and driving. JMO
 
Get a block heater. Then one start per day has the oil or coolant warmed up above ambient.

The Buick has a coolant heater. It's nice in the winter having heat after a minute or so. The Fit will be getting a coolant heater over the summer.
 
I get the vehicle moving as soon as the oil pressure light is out after a cold start. The best way to warm a car up is to drive it!
 
thank you all!!

sciphi: which exactly block heater would i buy?

also, to all; i would rather use a bit of gas warming up the car, if it saves the car long term!!!!

best

bob
 
Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke

also, to all; i would rather use a bit of gas warming up the car, if it saves the car long term!!!!

There is no proof that it does.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Robertslowpoke

also, to all; i would rather use a bit of gas warming up the car, if it saves the car long term!!!!

There is no proof that it does.


The SAE Test on this say the longer the car is run below temp the more wear. It takes longer for the engine to warm with no load and this increases wear. Cold Idle also loads the oil with excess fuel which also increases engine wear.

I do personally wait for the idle to drop to 1000 rpm because Im more worried about the trans than the engine.
 
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Most all of my vehicles get started, let the RPM drop, then go. Usually takes less than a minute. Keep it under 2K before normal temps are reached.

However, with my 2005 Jeep Liberty KJ, I give it about five minutes when colder weather is around. I only drive 9.9 miles to work, and while it gives it plenty of time to get fully warm, the PCV system needs that 5 extra minutes apparently. If I don't let it warm up some, "sludge" develops in the PCV valve due to moisture (bad PCV design). When I do let it warm up, everything stays clean.

I guess it is whatever works for you. There is no absolute.
 
Search Amazon for "Kat's heater". I've had one installed in my lower radiator hose for about 8 months, and it works fine. On a 0*F day the block heater had my car warmed up to 70*F after being plugged in for 5 hours.

There are also some threads detailing oil pan and block/coolant heaters. Consensus came to an oil pan heater being the "best" since heat radiated up and it heated the oil. The coolant heater was still a good choice for installations where an oil pan heater was impractical.
 
Warm it up first.....you got to give time for the metals to expand without any additional stress..
Here we go again.....
crazy.gif

And here I was waiting for winter to come to start this topic all over again!!!!
smile.gif
 
During the summer: start car, put seatbelt on, roll window down. No valve clatter? Drive.

During the winter: start car, put seatbelt on, wait ~30 seconds for TGVs to do their thing on the Subaru. Drive.
 
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