Do you use pump or drain plug for your tranny?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 27, 2004
Messages
2,471
Location
Frankfort, Kentucky
I have seen people with both, just wanted to get a head count on who is using either.

I would be changing the transmission fluid with the oil, and was looking at using these directions

Have a grade 8 nut welded to the back/bottom of the drain pan so that when it is on ramps, the fluid will run towards the drain plug. Weld first, then drill hole, and fit appropriate bolt into nut with teflon tape.

Pump sounds easier, but cost more. Plug means car needs to be up, but oil changes would be the time anyway.

[ February 16, 2005, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: Shaman ]
 
I use a small pump that I aquired to change the oil in the lower unit in my outboard motor.

I purchased 4 feet of 1/4"id clear plastic tubing for an extension to put down the dipstick tube.

I pump the old atf into an old 1 liter atf bottle and dump each one into a 4 liter container to dump at the service station.

This method allows me to change 3 liters at a time on my JGC Larado and I can also prevent a mess on the floor when I remove the pan to change the filter.
cheers.gif


JD
 
I installed a B&M drain plug becasue it gets more fluid out then the suction from the dipstick tube method in my car.
 
I pull the pan and replace the filter, then add the 3-4 qts I lost.

For a complete fluid change I pull the lines off the radiator and push hoses onto them that drop into two large clean buckets. One bucket has all the new fluid plus a little. The other bucket is empty with the system capacity marked with a line. I have a second person start the engine as I watch the buckets fill/empty, then have the helper shut it down when it reaches the line of the empty buck.
 
Be aware the double bucket method won't always work. Tried that on a Mazda MPV. Found out there is no suction on the return side to pull new fluid in. Some trans have it some don't
dunno.gif
 
For any trans that has a removeable pan (some of the transaxles don't) it's always good to pull it down for a look inside.
Just make sure to install the filter properly, replacing the seal on the "neck" if needed. Sometime they harden up and a leak there will induce air into your system degrading performance and life.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bulwnkl:
I pull the pan and change the filter (if it has one). Why would you use/need a grade 8 nut? Just curious.

This is just what i read on another forum.


The filter would get changed every 30K miles, but i would feel better about draining 2-4 qts ever 6K miles to keep the fluid cleaner.

My last car had 4 filter changes in 11K miles
 
I pull the pan and change the filter (if it has one). Why would you use/need a grade 8 nut? Just curious.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom