Do you always, usually, or rarely torque bolts to spec?

I fond of the idea of torque specs.

It separates the engineer from the "mechanic" in me.

If I can find a spec I'm busting out my torque wrench. 🔧

Doing it anything less is just guessing and hoping the bolt doesn't break or come loose.

I want to do a good job and not use "a good feeling" of snug.

IMO workshops that have access to torque specs and not following through with them is pure lazy, not professional, and not getting what the customer is paying for.
shop monkeys gotta work fast. using 2 tools to tighten one bolt takes longer and stuff like belt idlers and alternator brackets will be fine anywhere from 15-30 ft lbs.
 
shop monkeys gotta work fast. using 2 tools to tighten one bolt takes longer and stuff like belt idlers and alternator brackets will be fine anywhere from 15-30 ft lbs.
They get away with it but it's not the standard principle practice nor should it be.

The idea of a "mechanic" "having a feel for it" is frightening. That means one mechanics idea of "tight" is not the others idea of "tight".

It sounds like the wild west in those shop's.
 
shop monkeys gotta work fast. using 2 tools to tighten one bolt takes longer and stuff like belt idlers and alternator brackets will be fine anywhere from 15-30 ft lbs.
Which explains why they have boogered up so many of my cars over the years.

Stripped bolts. Parts that fail from being over tightened. Parts that come loose. Leaks. Missing fasteners that they forgot to put back in.

Oh, and my personal favorite, loose wheel bolts two weeks after a State Inspection in which they removed that wheel to check the brake pad thickness.

Not only did they charge me for the missing wheel bolt (one fell out) but they charged me for the repair.

Shop monkeys would starve if they did the job by the book?

Yeah, well, when they forget to tighten wheel bolts and put my wife‘s life at risk, I honestly hope they do starve.
 
Which explains why they have boogered up so many of my cars over the years.

Stripped bolts. Parts that fail from being over tightened. Parts that come loose. Leaks. Missing fasteners that they forgot to put back in.

Oh, and my personal favorite, loose wheel bolts two weeks after a State Inspection in which they removed that wheel to check the brake pad thickness.

Not only did they charge me for the missing wheel bolt (one fell out) but they charged me for the repair.

Shop monkeys would starve if they did the job by the book?

Yeah, well, when they forget to tighten wheel bolts and put my wife‘s life at risk, I honestly hope they do starve.
Last year they did that to my Right front wheel. I got them to buy me another, used, wheel after showing them the damaged aluminum wheel. I never have trouble when I torque the wheel bolts to spec.
 
Always use a torque wrench for the wheel lug nuts and larger nuts and bolts. Snug up the 10 mm and less by hand, including spark plugs. Not encountered an issue yet, but there is always a first time! :(
 
I rarely do anything beyond fluid changes and filters and I leave the rest to the mechanic so there isn't usually much for me to worry about torquing.
 
For those that say "always when a spec is listed", I can nearly promise you there is a spec on 99+% of the fasteners you encounter in a vehicle.
It's convenient though and allows them to actually not torque everything to spec.

- Bolt holding a brake line to a strut bracket
Haha !! Checked the FSM for one of my cars and there's (3) stud-mounted brackets holding the brake hose. Two of them are 16 ft/lbs and one is 12 ft/lbs. If someone says they use a torque wrench on those, well, good for them !

- The fasteners holding the air filter box lid
49 in/lbs. Well, that's for a bracket that holds the air box. Close enough ?
 
If there's a published torque spec for it, I use it; provided there's enough clearance to get the torque wrench on it.

If there's no spec, I keep in mind that in order to prevent a fastener from working its way loose, there must be enough stress in the threads to keep it in place. I tighten accordingly, depending on what the fastener is holding.
 
So you'll torque....

- The fasteners holding the air filter box lid
- Bolt holding a brake line to a strut bracket
- Ignition Coil Bolts
- Bolts for the brackets holding the top of the radiator to the core support
- Fasteners holding a coolant reservoir bottle to the chassis

Just some examples that I immediately thought of. I don't see any of those to be critical, yet OEM's have torque specs listed for them.
I do more than most people would but not bother with screw bolts in plastic, many times those are close to being stripped out when you take the screws out. Flat rate drives workers to use a TW only on the most critical fasteners, even then they use torque sticks on wheels.
On a motorcycle I am neurotic, I have hit some outrageous speeds on on a rice rocket, you do not need stuff falling off or coming loose, just the thought of it is unsettling.
 
If the part in question has a listed torque spec, I torque it. Lately I use a torque wrench a lot more than I did when I was younger.
 
Wether or not the torque is listed in the documentation is often the difference between critical and non-critial.

I use a torque wrench if tbe specification is listed.
Do you use a torque wrench on spark plug, oil filter, and oil drain plug?(This might even depend on the vehicle)
I'd agree for most jobs lug nuts, engine, suspension etc. I use the torque wrench.. but not all.
 
Rarely. Wheels get torqued, if I'm doing engine work then everything that needs torqued gets it. I rarely get the torque wrench out otherwise.
 
Basically.

Blows my mind whenever I read people snug down spark plugs without torque wrenches.
if it’s not a newer benz or similar that needs to be clocked, it’s not my problem. if you really care get the koken ratchet and that does 99% of cartridge oil filter tops as well
 
-Until the socket stops spinning.

When our truck mechanic torques semi truck lug nuts.
 
Back
Top