do these iridium plugs still have life?

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On the bottom pic I see a worn ground electrode on the three upper plugs. There's no iridium puck there so it uses the main ground metal and it's rounded. Spark doesn't like to fire off a rounded surface.
 
Relying on the exterior appearance vs. internal functional integrity of a $10 plug for the performance of the engine is...well...foolhardy.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Relying on the exterior appearance vs. internal functional integrity of a $10 plug for the performance of the engine is...well...foolhardy.


Except that in a plug, it's the external bits that wear down and visual inspection is advised. I'm not sure what other internal components you have in mind, as the core, unless it breaks away from the plug, will always be fine.
Also by visually inspecting the plugs one can tell quite a lot about how the engine is running and its overall health. Nothing "foolhardy" about it.
 
It's a $10 part whose insulator can be compromised upon removal from the slot...yes, inspect...THEN replace....it's supposed to last 100k+ miles...reeeeeally.....
 
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Originally Posted By: KitaCam
It's a $10 part whose insulator can be compromised upon removal from the slot...yes, inspect...THEN replace....it's supposed to last 100k+ miles...reeeeeally.....


Never seen a spark plug mounted in a slot, nor a damaged insulator as long as the correct socket was used...

If they are easy to access, I'd set the gap and reinstall them in a instant...
 
Iridium plugs are NOT supposed to be re-gapped....they are NOT your grandfather's plugs...
...and excuse me if I used the wrong word to describe the hole where the plug goes.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Iridium plugs are NOT supposed to be re-gapped....they are NOT your grandfather's plugs...
...and excuse me if I used the wrong word to describe the hole where the plug goes.


Yes, and ATF is NOT supposed to be changed, PCV is NOT supposed to be touched, burning 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles is NOT supposed to be a concern and there are many other things that are NOT supposed to happen but they do.

Fact is that iridium spark plugs may not be gapped to the proper spec straight out of the box and they may need to be re-gapped. You cannot use the same technique as with copper plugs, as it was mentioned already, but they certainly CAN BE re-gapped and SHOULD BE re-gapped if needed.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

Fact is that iridium spark plugs may not be gapped to the proper spec straight out of the box and they may need to be re-gapped. You cannot use the same technique as with copper plugs, as it was mentioned already, but they certainly CAN BE re-gapped and SHOULD BE re-gapped if needed.


Maybe someone did re-gap a set and is why we are having a late spring???
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Maybe someone did re-gap a set and is why we are having a late spring???


I swear it wasn't me!
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Iridium plugs are NOT supposed to be re-gapped....they are NOT your grandfather's plugs...
...and excuse me if I used the wrong word to describe the hole where the plug goes.


Yes, and ATF is NOT supposed to be changed, PCV is NOT supposed to be touched, burning 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles is NOT supposed to be a concern and there are many other things that are NOT supposed to happen but they do.

Fact is that iridium spark plugs may not be gapped to the proper spec straight out of the box and they may need to be re-gapped. You cannot use the same technique as with copper plugs, as it was mentioned already, but they
certainly CAN BE re-gapped and SHOULD BE re-gapped if needed.


You're advice seems contradictory...recommending replacing/changing ATF, PCV valve, (to which I'd add coolant and other fluids called "life-time"), as wise Preventative Maintenance...but not plugs @ $5-7/ea once every 100k miles...that's all I'm advising... just as you advise people to do with other cheap-per-mile PM...IF iridiums must be re-gapped, then a getting a new $5-7 part is a better decision...
 
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