Do people still use the open end on a combination wrench?

[doublebase]

I agree, but sometimes you can’t. Recently I did shocks on my Dodge Ram. No way to get a box end on the nuts. Had to use open end, and it was all so seized that I ended up having to shear the bolt while loosening.. The 21” Wright open end held it perfectly without rounding the nut.

Yeah you’re right, and I always worry I’m going to round the bolt or nut when I use it.

I‘ve never heard of Wright tools. I have mostly Snap-On or Matco stuff.

I’ll throw an adjustable wrench on something once in a while...I don’t know, they just seem to bite a little better. But they’re bulky.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I use the open end if the space is too snug for the closed end.

 

[cb_13]

I used the open end of a 13/16 Snap-On to put together the shops salamander heater on Saturday. The Snap-On open ends with flank drive(or the quality copies of them)are pretty good. I still prefer a box end or a six point socket for stuff that really needs some torque to break loose.

 

[4WD]

 

[ragtoplvr]

Hook a box over it the right way, make a cheater extension, Good wrench will not care.

Rod

 

[CA-Mudskipper]

last option... open end suck..

 

[The Critic]

Ball joint nuts - many FWD cars have the ball joint nut in a low clearance location (right below the outer cv joint).

Toyota front caliper bracket pins that like to spin (but I use a cone wrench for this).

 

[Eddie]

I was brought up a old timer (my Dad) and it was Box wrench first, Open end next and god forbid an adjustable last. Ed

 

[IndyIan]

I try not to use the open end when working on rusty stuff, but all box ends I see are 12pt which I don't want in a socket set? My sockets are all 6pt so when I'm working really rusty stuff I like to hammer on one of those.... As a kid I remember rounding a few nuts with old worn out open ends, but with my half decent new set they seem to hold pretty good.

 

[wings&wheels]

Yes

 

[spasm3]

I agree, but sometimes you can’t. Recently I did shocks on my Dodge Ram. No way to get a box end on the nuts. Had to use open end, and it was all so seized that I ended up having to shear the bolt while loosening.. The 21” Wright open end held it perfectly without rounding the nut.

I have wright wrenches as well. The grip design really works!!

 

[Jetronic]

also, the open end is used to hook another boxed end in if i need more leverage

 

[dlundblad]

Brake line wrenches are very unforgiving on the approach angle. They only work if there is absolutely nothing to bang into. Anyway, not to bicker.

When I run into this issue, I’ll be sure to report back.

 

[dlundblad]

Yes
View attachment 45675

Ewww.
Don’t try this at home, kids. Lol

 

[AutoMechanic]

Yes
View attachment 45675

What even is that? Lol

 

[MattPersman]

Yes quite often typically snap on

 

[bunnspecial]

All my combination wrenches are 12 point on the box end. If something is being stubborn, I'd much rather grab a 6 point socket if there's room.

I can think of quite a few fasteners I work on regularly where open end is the only realistic way to get to them. The distributor pinch clamp on the BMC B-series engine is one. If yours is original, it actually should correctly fit a 1/4" Whitworth(5/16 BSF), but it's not a high torque fastener(getting it too tight is a bad thing) and a 7/16" SAE is fine even if it's a bit sloppy. Reproductions are 7/16". Still, though, regardless of the exact size, good luck getting a box end wrench on it.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Wright grip combos (I have original, not 2.0) are pretty decent for the money... their consistency on the box end angle (relative to the beam) and the open ends can be a little "fat" for certain applications. This is one tool I really like by SO and their flank drive. Nice and thin and just work.

 

[wings&wheels]

What even is that? Lol

It is the rudder stem and port on an old inboard. The flange and lower lock nut secure the port to the hull and the upper gland and its locknut seal the rudder shaft. There is a fibrous packing that is compressed as you tighten the gland at the upper end of the port. The cross arm is the tiller, attached to the steering cable.

The white hoses are some prior owners idea of bilge vents....they should (and will) be something a bit more substantial than Home Depot dryer vent.

The crud all around is a mixture of water, slime, a bit of oil, fuel, ATF, probably someone's spilled beer, some cheesy goldfish from the kids and whatever else finds its way there then stews under a boat cover at the dock from May to November......

 

[AutoMechanic]

It is the rudder stem and port on an old inboard. The flange and lower lock nut secure the port to the hull and the upper gland and its locknut seal the rudder shaft. There is a fibrous packing that is compressed as you tighten the gland at the upper end of the port. The cross arm is the tiller, attached to the steering cable.

The crud all around is a mixture of water, slime, a bit of oil, fuel, ATF, probably someone's spilled beer, some cheesy goldfish from the kids and whatever else finds its way there then stews under a boat cover at the dock from May to November......

Oh ok I see lol. Looks like it seized up lol.