Do I really need to change my oil, less than 500 miles in 2.5 years?
- Thread starter Ed209
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I wouldn't change it.
I've done UOA's on a couple of Jeeps that go a few years between changes and they were fine.
They were also kept outside.
I've done UOA's on a couple of Jeeps that go a few years between changes and they were fine.
They were also kept outside.
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- Jul 11, 2014
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NY humidity/temp swings with weather/seasons can be drastic.
Is the garage humidity controlled? cooled/heated?
So, with ever changing oil specs, I would consider it. Doesn't hurt to change a biodegrading cardboard media filter too. Get some newest spec synthetic oil and synthetic media filter for your next 2.5 year run.
What oil and filter is in it now?
Has the engine been fogged?
Hows the coolant? MT/diff/PS/brake fluids/fuel?
UOA's don't test for active or spent corrosion or rust inhibitors, does it?
Since its a rare and appreciating vehicle, I would pick a time/mileage based interval and change it out.
So, my recommendation is to change all the fluids/filters now, fog 'er up, and get a dehumidifier running at a fixed humidity percent(which too can be argued).
Is the garage humidity controlled? cooled/heated?
So, with ever changing oil specs, I would consider it. Doesn't hurt to change a biodegrading cardboard media filter too. Get some newest spec synthetic oil and synthetic media filter for your next 2.5 year run.
What oil and filter is in it now?
Has the engine been fogged?
Hows the coolant? MT/diff/PS/brake fluids/fuel?
UOA's don't test for active or spent corrosion or rust inhibitors, does it?
Since its a rare and appreciating vehicle, I would pick a time/mileage based interval and change it out.
So, my recommendation is to change all the fluids/filters now, fog 'er up, and get a dehumidifier running at a fixed humidity percent(which too can be argued).
If you like the car and plan to keep it, I would change the oil and filter. For $20 you can put a new filter and synthetic oil in it. I dont think the oil itself goes bad but I also dont know what happens to the additives as they oxidize.
How? Without the products of combustion combined with heat nothing is going to happen to the TBN. Acids don't just pop out of nowhere.
There really are no issues with time unless during that interval the vehicle is extensively short-tripped in cool or cold weather. That's why manufacturers impose a time limit, they do not know the specific operating conditions during that year.
You don't know the condition of his engine.....do you?
How can you say the TBN would not be affected over 2.5 years?
Most manufacturers spec 1 year for oil changes.
This is way past that.
500 miles over 2.5 years - - that is some short tripping. Climate is also a factor.
We don't know much - I am surprised so many say to leave it in.
I think you are fine! Why not take the car for a good drive this weekend (30 or 45 minutes), getting the vehicle up to operating temperature. This would also allow you to put some fresh gas in the tank.
Just my $0.02
I would change it but optionally leave the filter.
I'm not a mechanic but yes, I would change the oil and filter. And you should make it a point to get the car up to operating temps and higher RPMs and speeds at least monthly for 20-30 minutes. That's my understanding from listening to mechanics.
I'd at minimum change the oil (maybe not necessarily the filter but at least the oil). Sure, a small amount of old oil will remain in the block and filter, but most will be fresh. It's $15-$25 peace of mind, and gives you time to inspect the car or do any other work. Check rubber parts, belts, hoses, exposed rubber, etc. And I'd make it a point to drive it a bit more. I don't think sitting idle for extended periods is good for vehicles. You get dry rot, flat spots on tires, dead battery (of course you can disconnect it to fight this), and so forth.
I'm in a similar situation, as I have a valuable Challenger SRT8 and barely put miles on it, probably far less than 1000 per year. I still do an annual oil change. My other cars are similar, I change them annually and none reach even 3000 in a year, most are 1000 or less. Again, it's a tiny price to preserve very valuable machines and it gives time under the hood to do other maintenance or inspection.
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TBN gives insight to the health of the add pack, including the additives used to neutralize harmful acids produced from combustion which could cause corrosion.
https://www.techenomics.net/2013/12/what-is-tbn-and-how-much-do-i-need/
As others have mentioned, it's important to make sure the oil gets to full operating temperature for awhile on the driving it does get. That will remove most moisture and fuel dilution from cold starts.
Maybe the oil is fine, maybe not...but new oil and filter is a relatively cheap way to know for sure.
Those things are worth mucho dinero. I wouldn't be be penny wise and pound foolish.
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Its already on your mind --- should I change it or not? THERE --- change the oil & filter and rest easy buddy!!! 
I know "color doesn't mean anything" but does it still look almost new on the dipstick.
I may lose sleep over this and it isn't even my car.
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I would be more concerned about the filter than the oil. Wouldn't the adhesives dissolve over time?
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