That is a pretty broad category. Some parts associated with said item can.
Every metal has a fatigue life. The thing with some metals (ferrous metals and Titanium) is that they have an "endurance limit", which is a stress level below which the fatigue life is infinite. (over 10 million cycles).Different materials fatigue differently. I believe aluminum does have a fatigue life but the rate of fatigue will be highly dependent on use and design. I’m not sure if there are many aluminum parts carrying heavy fatigue loads in that 5.7? I think I’d be inclined to just drive it like I want to drive it.
Indeed.I had a friend who studied metalurgey in school, and he'd say this:
All metals have a fatigue point (max force value) and a fatigue life (max cyclic exposure). Both can lead to failure if operated past those limits.
The question becomes one of "if" you'll ever operate an engine in a condition that it would see one or the other actually happen.
We have no way of knowing if any of this one particular engine's components have a manufacturing defect that would be exposed in stressful operation. We don't know how much it's been babyed in the past, or run too hard. Etc .... Even healthy components have a finite life, if that life is lived hard enough for long enough.
The reality is that "Yes", absolutely there is a potential to "fatigue" this engine to failure. The only way he can tilt the odds in his favor is to reduce the operational forces (don't rev it hard or load it hard). If he continues to drive it, the cyclic count goes up. No other way around these facts.
Fatigue isn't really a wear element. Fatigue is a degradation of bonds within the crystal lattice of the alloy.I have a 1997 Chevy K1500 with the 5.7 vortec engine. It has 371000 miles on it but still runs perfect. If compression and oil pressure are good, should one still avoid hard driving/red lining this engine simple due to the fact it has so many miles? In my mind it seems like this engine would be more likely to throw a rod or suffer catastrophic failure, is this accurate?
Lower intake manifold is aluminum, the rest of the engine is cast iron.
pistons?
So then which one are you saying is the better choice? Some times things are counter intuitive. The less stiffer maybe the better choice??Indeed.
This is why stiffness is often as important or more important than strength. You might have two crankshafts, for example, that have identical strength in terms of being made from the same material (say, AISI 4340), but they will have wildly different real world fatigue life if one is much stiffer than the other.
When you say 80% of redline do you mean running it in a lower gear for an extended amount of time?Stuff like the exhaust manifold or its attaching hardware might finally crack. The advice to warm it up slowly is good. Honestly thermal expansion also affects intake manifold and head gaskets.
You should take it to 80% of redline at 80% of throttle once in a while, keeps the carbon out, the rings from sticking and keeps you from getting a "ridge" at the top of the cylinder bores.
That is a good point. A lot of times an engine burning oil could just be the valve guides and not the rest of the engine.I would think that the valve stem seals would go before any of the metal parts.
I would think that the valve stem seals would go before any of the metal parts.
Preferably driving up a mountain at 80% load.When you say 80% of redline do you mean running it in a lower gear for an extended amount of time?
When you say modern, how far back?Not near the issue it once was....The material used in modern positive seal valve guide seals is quite durable.
Last 20-25 years.When you say modern, how far back?
Oh really???If I was 89 years old I wouldn't try to run a 4 minute mile...