DIY: How to do oil change for dummies

[Seth]

I want to do my own change from now on.. However, apart from keyboard, I am not handy on anything much less turning a wrench.

So, can the pros tell me how to do an oil change by meself?
1. What do you use for jacking up the vehicle? ramp or jackstands? which is safer? I assume that ramp is easier for beginners since jackstand slipping is a dangerous situation.
2. After draining the oil, putting the drain bolt back on with new o ring, what else to do apart from sticking a new filter? i.e should the filter be loaded with new oil? or empty is okay?
3. Pour fresh oil and start the vehicle while on ramp. However, if the vehicle is tilted (if jackstand is not used), the oil level might read wrong.. but thats probably okay since the quantity is 4 ltrs in sump and .3 in filter hence 4.4 should do.
4. Drive off the ramps and reset the OLM... Am I missing something?

First of all, I dont know where the filter is located and if it is cartridge or canister.. 07 mitsubishi outlander btw.

 

[Black_Thunder]

it depends on what vehicle i'm working on, some i'll use ramps, others i'll use a jack and stands, smaller cars don't have enough clearance for the ramps to work.
loading the filter is often un-necessary but if you can fill it and put it on without spilling its not a bad idea..
what i always do when filling is put in the required amount, start it and back it off the ramps or let it down off the stands, then shut the vehicle off and let it sit for a couple minutes then check the level when the vehicle is level.

but first you need to look over your engine bay from above and underneath to assure that you know where everything is.

 

[88Dakota]

Personally, I think ramps are far easier/quicker than jack stands.

 

[simple_gifts]

check for leaks after filter is pressurized; One BITOG'r, not me, installed a new filter, but the old filter O-ring was still attached to the block. Messy situation.....

 

[sxg6]

I would use jackstands no matter what, regardless of how you get the vehicle off the ground. Just my .02

 

[PT1]

Depends on the clearance on your vehicle...some don't need jacking up at all because the oil pan & filter are easily reachable from the front.

 

[MOFXed]

I am using ramps. Easy and safe solution.

Also installed Fumoto oil valve so do not have to mess with oil plug.

 

[LouDawg]

+1 on the Rhino ramps...but it depends on the car. On my Escape, everything is beautifully located and easy to access, plus good clearance. On the Accord, it's a little tighter squeeze, but not too bad.

To the OP, there are a thousand different tips you could get, and many are great...I've used many of them myself. The main things to remember are take your time the first few times, talk out loud to yourself if you have to to remind yourself what you need to do, don't overtighten the drain plug and filter...just make sure they're good and snug and don't leak after the change. Don't forget to fill it back up with oil before you start the engine! (Sounds dumb, but it happens.) Make sure the oil/engine light goes off pretty quickly, within a few seconds at the most. I'd let it run for a minute or two, then shut it off and check the level on level ground. (I'm far from the expert here...just giving you some tips based on what I've been told and what I've seen myself.

Expect to be a little messier the first few times you do it. But you'll eventually develop your own little system of techniques and shortcuts and soon it'll be a walk in the park. I just started doing my own last year, and I wouldn't go back now for anything. Good luck!

 

[Seth]

Since there is no record of oil change, how does dealer treat any potential warranty issue?

 

[MOFXed]

I keep receipts for oil and filter purchases. I scan them and log into a maintenance database I have. I can either print all of them or show originals. This is one of the reasons I do not stash oil or filters. I buy them when the oil change is due.

 

[Rodbuckler]

One thing you can do that will improve the quality of your work is to clean everything you will come into contact with prior to the oil change. Spray off the oil pan and around the filter and anywhere else your arm and hand will have to travel with the new-charged and gasket-wetted filter.

Also, sweep off the floor or driveway. Lay down clean newspaper. Wipe out the catch basin or basins. Clean your tools before you put them away. Country music, beer, and risque calenders on the wall will also help the process.

 

[Mr Nice]

Ramps + Fumoto valve makes oil changes a snap.

 

[ekpolk]

One other thing to always remember: SAFETY!!! Whatever method you use to lift your car, back it up by putting something like a sturdy tool box, piece of a log, etc. underneath too, so that if your primary lift fails for whatever reason, you won't be crushed under the car. This does happen with nauseating regularity. But with just a little common sense and caution, there's nothing to fear. Enjoy!

 

[Rico567]

+1 on what "ekpolk" said. Whether you choose ramps or stands, always set the emergency brake and have the car in park or gear. The backup of some immovable object shoved under wherever you're working is an excellent idea, too. My wife had an uncle who died in the driveway trying to do a shortcut job with a jack. Be safe.

As far as the questions on technique:

1. ramps or stands, I see no difference. I'd choose ramps, because it's easier.

2.

a. Drain plugs don't use O-rings, or I've never seen one that did. All I've ever seen are aluminum or copper gaskets (washers). If you run into an aluminum one, recycle that bad boy and get copper.

b. I've never preloaded an oil filter in 40 years of DIY changes. I've never seen any bad results, but.....suit yourself.

3. Don't worry about the level until you've got the car back ont the ground and on a level surface. Plus, the level isn't a valid one until you've run the engine and circulated the oil everywhere.

4. Yep.

 

[dbvettez06]

And, you will ALWAYS spill just a bit of oil, somwhere!!!

 

[AndyH]

Seth: If you do a Google search for how to change your oil you'll turn up quite a few do-it-yourself articles walking you through the process of changing your oil.

I'd also recommend looking for an online Mitsubishi Outlander discussion forum, they may have already written up an oil-change how-to article and posted it on the site. There certainly could be some vehicle-specific "quirks" that no one here is going to be aware of unless they've changed the oil on an Outlander before.

 

[B00SS]

Many good tips and techniques here. I will add one of my own. When you take the filter off, depending upon filter orientation, oil can run down the sides of the filter and onto you. I will often take a hammer and nail and tap a hole into the filter to allow the oil to drain out before removing the filter. This can make the job a little less messy.

 

[bdai]

One more 'less-messy' tip: When you're removing the drain plug, start to loosen using a ratchet or breaker bar, then do everything else by hand. Push inwards while unscrewing, and you'll feel when it's all the way out (the bolt will be able to pivot, almost like a ball-joint). Then just pull away quickly, and you avoid getting oil all over your hands/tools.

 

[Winston]

I doubt you will have to raise your truck to do an oil change. However, you will probably have to remove a skid plate to get access to the drain plug and filter.

 

[PT1]

Quote:

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Many good tips and techniques here. I will add one of my own. When you take the filter off, depending upon filter orientation, oil can run down the sides of the filter and onto you. I will often take a hammer and nail and tap a hole into the filter to allow the oil to drain out before removing the filter. This can make the job a little less messy.

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Try a cordless drill....takes 2 seconds if you have a sharp bit...