DIY: How to do oil change for dummies

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Fumoto valve...have it installed by someone if your not a good wrench turner....you don't want to over tighten it since it is brass. It's easy to use if you get the nippled version and some clear plastic hose.

Ramps are OK, but I imagined myself driving off them and so I bought a nice 3 1/2 ton floor jack at Sam's Club for $65. If your an apartment dweller then I guess the ramps are better.

Jack stands a must. SAFETY FIRST and you'll be fine. There are many threads about this topic all over the place.
 
I heard that fumoto valves can be accidentally turned on... losing oil while driving.. Is that true? I heard one such story back when fumoto valve was just coming on the market.
 
Never heard of any Fumoto valve issues like that, although I suppose anything is possible. BTW, I have one on my Subaru and love it and will likely continue using them on any future vehicles I might own.
 
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I heard that fumoto valves can be accidentally turned on... losing oil while driving.. Is that true? I heard one such story back when fumoto valve was just coming on the market.




I seriously don't see how that is possible on a road. Use a spring type hose clamp safety if your worried.
 
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I heard that fumoto valves can be accidentally turned on... losing oil while driving.. Is that true? I heard one such story back when fumoto valve was just coming on the market.




Sure. If you accidentally open the valve rather than close it.
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I use those neat latex gloves to keep my hands clean. They also work great for working with BBQ and turkeys.

I have ramps but I'd rather use stands and a jack. I not only don't like the feeling that I'm going to drive off the end, but that if I don't get the tires exactly centered a ramp (or the ramps) are going to shift and fall.

I always leave the jack engaged with the vehicle when I can, and a tire or some other large object underneath to keep it off my body a little should something happen. I know most people don't take tires off when changing oil, but I thought it might be relevant to a newbie someday.

I fill up the filters on those vehicles that allow it.

I have a sharpened nail set that punch into filters to let them drain the overflow away before I take them off. I'd think if I used a drill it would get oil all over it while I'm dragging out the bit.

And, lastly, I keep paper towels handy to keep things tidy and clean the plug before I put it back in.
 
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I keep receipts for oil and filter purchases. I scan them and log into a maintenance database I have. I can either print all of them or show originals. This is one of the reasons I do not stash oil or filters. I buy them when the oil change is due.




I dont stash oil, but i do buy filters by the case on line. I have a receipt for 12 filters, and i have 12 copies of said receipt. I dont anticipate it to be a problem if it ever comes up.

I also log the oil changes on my own oil change receipt i created that shows the date, miles, and any other maintenence done and attach receipts for everything.
 
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I want to do my own change from now on.. However, apart from keyboard, I am not handy on anything much less turning a wrench.
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So, can the pros tell me how to do an oil change by meself?
1. What do you use for jacking up the vehicle? ramp or jackstands? which is safer? I assume that ramp is easier for beginners since jackstand slipping is a dangerous situation.




Unless you are a very large person, i would doubt you need to get an suv off the ground to change the oil. I drive a mazda 626, and before that on my honda accord, mazda protege, vw jetta, and vw golf, i never had a problem changing the oil with the car on the ground. I can lay down just under the front bumper and reach everything from the filter, drain plug, and radiator drain for that matter.
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2. After draining the oil, putting the drain bolt back on with new o ring, what else to do apart from sticking a new filter? i.e should the filter be loaded with new oil? or empty is okay?




I always remove the old filter first, so when i drop it into the drain pan it is empty and it wont splash or anything. I just let it drain for a 30 seconds (about 1/4 quart will come out when you remove the filter, but you can remove it without first draining the oil), wipe the filter flange with a rag, and install the new filter. I put a bead of fresh oil on the filter gasket but i have never filled the filter with oil. It is not necessary.

I then move to the drain plug, start draining the old oil and while its draining i remove the oil filler cap to assist in draining, and then get my bottles or fresh oil ready.

Then i either put a new washer on the drain plug or if the old one is still in good shape i turn it over to allow it to 'crush' better, reinstall the plug, tighten, and then i'm ready to refill.
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3. Pour fresh oil and start the vehicle while on ramp. However, if the vehicle is tilted (if jackstand is not used), the oil level might read wrong.. but thats probably okay since the quantity is 4 ltrs in sump and .3 in filter hence 4.4 should do.
4. Drive off the ramps and reset the OLM... Am I missing something?

First of all, I dont know where the filter is located and if it is cartridge or canister.. 07 mitsubishi outlander btw.




You can go to the dealer parts counter and buy an oil filter and you will know that way what you are looking for. If you continue to change the oil yourself, i would recommend looking online for a source to buy OEM filters the dealer uses for less. I buy mine at europeanautoparts.com, they have decent prices and despite their name, also carry lots of OEM japanese auto parts.

When refilling the car, you might start off with pouring in 4 and 1/4 quart, start, check for leaks on the filter and drain plug, let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes and check the oil level. Then add the amount necessary to bring it exactly to the full mark on the dip-stick.

As another poster mentioned, i also like to use surgical gloves for working on my car. A nice fresh and clean surgical glove allows you to get a good grip on the filter when installing it. Read the instructions on the filter, but most filter tell you how far to turn it after the gasket just touches the flange. Try to get this just right so its tight enough to keep it from leaking but not so tight its impossible to get off next time.

I live in an apt complex, which frowns upon working on ones car in the parking lot. I can change the oil, filter, refill, check for leaks, pour old oil into gallon collection containers, and wipe out and windex out my oil drain pan (I keep it spotless so i can store it in my trunk) and clean up and be outta there in about 20 minutes.

I also have a collection of about 500 static cling oil change reminder stickers for my windshield i collected from stores, buying them on ebay, etc.... They add a nice professional touch to your own oil change
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I don't think you can get to the Honda Accord oil filter without either getting the Accord on ramps or jacking it up. Beleive me, I tried. If you have a way to remove the oil filter on the Honda Accord without lifting it up. Please share with us. Thanks.
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I don't think you can get to the Honda Accord oil filter without either getting the Accord on ramps or jacking it up. Beleive me, I tried. If you have a way to remove the oil filter on the Honda Accord without lifting it up. Please share with us. Thanks.
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Ditto that. Even with my Rhino ramps, my belly is touching the undercarriage of my Accord. Of course, I'm not a *small* guy...and I'll just leave it at that.

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We owned 2 Honda Accords, a 99 LX 5 speed manual and a 00 EX auto. We bought both of them new and because both of them required lifting up the cars in order to get to the oil filters. So for that reason, we have been going to Valvoline for the oil changes since we bought the cars. Recently, because of all the bad press on quick lube places, I decided to test Valvoline to see if they actually preform the work that they suppose to do. It turns out that they really don't change the filter or use an new oil filter all the time when they do the oil changes. I knew that because I caught them putting on an used oil filter on one of my Accord.

Couple weeks ago, I decided to figure out how difficult it is to change the oil on my Accords so that I can do it myself. I already did all my oil changes on my other 2 cars (2 Toyotas). The ground clearance on the Accords is about 2 inches lower than the Toyota and the only way you can get to the oil filter is from underneath the cars. The oil drain plug, on the other hand is pretty easy to get to but in order to get to the oil filter, you must either put the Accord on ramps or jacking it up. So, I purchased a set of Rinho ramps (the 8000 series) a week ago and I am going to see if I can get to the filter under the car by using the ramps.

So my questions are:
How do you drive the car up on the ramps without worrying about over shooting the ramps and endup landing on the other side of the ramps?

Do I put the ramps again both front wheels and then try to get up on them or do I line them up on a short distance and try to drive up on them that way instead?

Does anyone had expenience with the Rinho 8000 ramps and how well do they work with the Accord?

How do you prevent the ramps from sliding when you try to drive up on them?

Thank you in advance for any inputs or comments.
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I like to get a small running start with my rear-wheel drive car. It would seem to me to be even more important with a front wheel drive car. Have someone outside the car watch as you go up and give you a pre-arranged signal to stop just as your tires hit the ramp where it goes from incline to flat. And DON'T try it on a wet day.
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Just remember, my advice is worth every penny you paid for it.
 
I put the rhino ramps directly in front of the tires. If you think navigating those ramps with an automatic car is unnerving, just imagine how it feels with a stick shift (me).

It is very simple, you will "feel" the car hit the flat part of the ramp, and you should be going slow enough to stop before you hit the end-barrier.
 
Get the car on level ground. Put the ramps just in front of tires, and make sure they're in a straight line with the back tires. Then up you drive. Having someone watching to see when you get to the top is helpful, but you'll feel it when you get the top anyway. If the ground and your tires are dry, there should be no problem with the ramps flying off as you try to drive up. I get up my ramps solo without trouble. Stick shift too.
 
With the Honda Accords, will I have enough or much clearance under the car after it's up on the Rhino ramps to reach the oil filter easily? I have both a stick shift and an automatic Accords.
 
I used the Rhino 8000's for my old '98 Altima and I barely had enough room to reach the oil filter or get under the car, and i'm not a very big person. I have a feeling i'm going to have an even tougher time with my Integra, since it's a couple inches lower to the ground than the Altima was. I think i'll be using Jacks next time, i'm always afraid i'm gonna drive off the end of those ramps, because I tend to push the gas too hard to get up them.
 
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