Ditch the K&N for stock paper?

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Originally Posted By: GatorJ
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Im not a fan of any filter that uses oil technology period. That oil gets on your MAF sensor and messes it up.


Uhmm, no.

K&N testing


Like they would say otherwise........

Used them. Failed to impress.
 
I would want a paper filter with at least as much surface area as the OEM filter.
How else can you get low restriction AND efficient filtering?

I re-routed the filter box inlet of the stock system from a hot area (just behind the battery) to a cooler zone (behind the fog light cover on the front bumper).
 
That would really only help with Idle Air Temps, when driving there really wont be any difference from where you put it to where it was. it's more about the air flow and restrictions than the placement of the filter.
 
Originally Posted By: BuddTX
I was going to ask the same question! (so I won't start a new thread)

I have a "High performance" after market K&N air filter, the cone shaped style air filter, and I would like to change back to a "regular" air filter, but since the "high performance" kit replaces the stock air filter chamber and tubing, I would like to replace "just" the Cone shaped K&N air filter with a paper filter of the same approximate dimensions.

The question is, how do I find a replacement cone shaped air filter?

The K&N filter is this:
K&N 57-3021-1
(or that is the current model for my truck, I have a 2001 GMC Sierra)

Should I just go into a Auto Supply store with my current filter, and look for a paper filter that would fit?

Do yall have any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!


Since you have the part number for your K&N cone filter, look it up on their site and see if the list the dimensions of it, then go to AFE or AEM's sites and see if they list a "generic" filter with those same dimensions, or at the very least, something with the same inner diameter of the end that slips onto your intake tube. Or you can just measure it yourself. Pretty much all aftermarket intake companies sell a vast variety of different sized cone filters. I'd recommend an AEM filter or AFE Pro Dry S filter, both are synthetic filters that only require washing with soapy water to clean them, and their efficiency ratings are almost as good as a factory paper filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
That would really only help with Idle Air Temps, when driving there really wont be any difference from where you put it to where it was.


It makes a big difference at non-highway speeds.
I checked with an OBD scanner.
 
I know for Honda Purolator and Frams best air filter that has oil in it is not made.. I have been told it can cause problems with the MASS Air Flow Sensor

At my family Garage we see cars come in all the time with MASS air Flow problems and more then 1/2 the time they have a K&N or some filter with a oil in it..

I think regular Paper.

Matter of fact I have a DRIVE WORKS in my Honda.

Drive works for the cabin filter... I wanted to go FRAM but they didnt have it in STOCK...

Anways.... Go OEM or any filter that meets OEM IMO....

Suprised Honda dont have there own air filter.

LOL that must be used or else...
 
The problem with oil filters and the MAF sensor is from people over oiling the filter, or not letting it dry before putting it back in.

I have run oil filters in cars for yours and only had an MAF issue when I did not wait for it ti fully dry before putting it back in the car.
 
A good tight fitting gasket is important also.

I use paper style filters only.

I replace them once a year because they are nine bucks in my application.
 
There is a specification for how much oil your supposed to put on the filter and you should weigh the bottle or can before and during application to not over oil it. I believe you can get the exact oil amount on the website but people probably throw away the inserts that show the correct amount.

I guess the aerosol is easier to use than the liquid as far as over oiling is concerned. But like I said you need a gram scale to get it perfect.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
There is a specification for how much oil your supposed to put on the filter and you should weigh the bottle or can before and during application to not over oil it. I believe you can get the exact oil amount on the website but people probably throw away the inserts that show the correct amount.

I guess the aerosol is easier to use than the liquid as far as over oiling is concerned. But like I said you need a gram scale to get it perfect.


Sure I agree however how come FRAM TOUGH GAURD does not make a Air Filter for The 02 Honda Accord V6 ?

I think its b/c the Mass Air Flow Sensor

I have had some techs tell me not to use em also.

It gums them all up.

OEM paper... or Fram ...even Driveworks.
smile.gif
 
I was just wondering why people use those pod/cone filters? I've seen numerous dyno tests on these, and they either perform at or below stock filter levels when it comes HP.
 
I have done UOA on a K$N equipped dodge 4.7. Silicon numbers were lower than average. I think much of this depends on if your intake lets in lots of dirt to start with, and most closed, factory style intake tracts do not.
 
Originally Posted By: MileHigh18
I was just wondering why people use those pod/cone filters? I've seen numerous dyno tests on these, and they either perform at or below stock filter levels when it comes HP.


Intakes are known for having little to no effect on a dyno. They mostly have an effect when you are moving and the motion tries to force more air into the intake tube.

Also they don't generally help with PEAK numbers, but often help other places in the power band. My car for example will dyno the same peak numbers, but under 3000rpm its car makes a few more HP and TQ, which is where you will be using it when cruising on the highway
 
Originally Posted By: Pyrotechnic
Thanks everyone. The K&N is coming off the truck and a paper filter is going back in. I found that GM actually used a 14x4 round paper filter on their older diesel V8's and it's ready available at auto parts stores for $10. Fram CA3492. At that price I can change it with every oil change if necessary.


If I was in this situation, I'd at least consider the possibility of installing them in series. Assuming the resultant total pressure drop is still within the acceptable range (for which I believe the rule-of-thumb is new OEM filter drop + 10 inches of water?) then you'd get better filtration and you'd prolong the life of your paper filter.

Of course I'm extremely stingy, (Scottish-Jewish-Yorkshire ancestry) I have an old car with a roomy engine compartment, and I don't use full power very often.
 
Forget about the additional filter. Just use a stock OEM pleated filter and change it every two or three years unless you live in a very dusty area like parts of New Mexico and Arizona.
 
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