Direct Injection, Fuel Dilution, & Viscosity

[blufeb95]

Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is a relatively thin oil for 30W, with an HTHS of 3.0. It is the best choice.


Mobil 1 5w30 HTHS 3.2
Mobil 1 euro HTHS 3.5

Did you accidentally get the data for Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30, becuase ESP 0W-30 is an ACEA C3 oil which means it has to have an HTHS above 3.5 and would fall in the upper 30 range for kinematic viscosity.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

My mom's 2017 CRV would dilute like mad. She's 85 and barely gets the engine warm by the time she done with her errands. I changed the oil often. Would actually see the level rise in between oil changes. GDI engine, no turbo.

 

[Blagoje]

Here are a few questions that need to be answered:

1. Are your vehicles are under warranty and if so how important is that warranty to you?

2. Is your vehicle equipped with an oil temperature gauge?

3. What is considered to be the standard oil change interval versus the severe service oil change interval for your vehicles?

 

[GW.]

Personally I would bump up to a quality 0W-30.

But if you’re a warranty worrier maybe Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 0W-20, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or Castrol EDGE Extended Performance.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Yeah, she brought it back to the dealer 2X for the fuel dilution / rising level on dipstick. They told her it was normal, and sent her on her way. No oil temp gauge that I know of. Doesn't matter anyway, she gifted it to her grand daughter with 19k on it. Besides, it has that rubber band transmission in it anyway. She bought a Toyota Cross in 2024. I opened the hood on the Cross, and was lost. Told her I wouldn't touch it. Too complicated for me. I'm content to work on my beaters 03' / 06' Toyota's with the 2AZ-FE & 13' CRV with the K-24. Too old to be learning new tricks. The beaters are simple to work on.

 

[kschachn]

Here are a few questions that need to be answered:

1. Are your vehicles are under warranty and if so how important is that warranty to you?

2. Is your vehicle equipped with an oil temperature gauge?

3. What is considered to be the standard oil change interval versus the severe service oil change interval for your vehicles?

I can answer the first one. Warranty isn’t tied to oil grade. People like to say that it is but it’s not, nor does the owner’s manual say that it is. Warranty is tied to damage and oil of a higher grade than recommended won’t harm the engine.

 

[Hohn]

I think they're engineering in fuel dilution so that when the engine burns the "Acceptable" 1qt every 1000 mi these days, it will burn it a little cleaner. It's the old F1 oil-as-fuel-trick!

Sometimes one wonders if the higher SAPS level effects on aftertreatment were the only thing restraining the OEMs from setting absurd oil consumption limits, and now that SAPS levels are in the basement, it's Katie Bar the Door on oil consumption.

 

[kschachn]

I think they're engineering in fuel dilution so that when the engine burns the "Acceptable" 1qt every 1000 mi these days, it will burn it a little cleaner. It's the old F1 oil-as-fuel-trick!

Sometimes one wonders if the higher SAPS level effects on aftertreatment were the only thing restraining the OEMs from setting absurd oil consumption limits, and now that SAPS levels are in the basement, it's Katie Bar the Door on oil consumption.

If true that is some of the worst engineering I've ever heard of. I wonder why they tried to mitigate it later?

F1 engines burned oil for extra horsepower, not cleanliness.

 

[burbguy82]

5w-30 is referenced in the owners manual as an allowed oil in several countries excepting the U.S. probably for CAFE reasons.
only would be my guess.

There is your answer. Use 5w30=done.

If you can run 5w30, then there is not reason you cannot run 0w40 either, just saying.

 

[ChrisD46]

5w-30 is referenced in the owners manual as an allowed oil in several countries excepting the U.S. probably for CAFE reasons.
only would be my guess.

CAFE reasons versus what oil the vehicle engineers prefer to be used ?

 

[oil pan 4]

I have two new Mazdas with direct injection. Based on what I have read here (and excuse by non-technical explanation), direct injection can dilute motor oil which can also reduce the oils viscosity, sometimes below what is recommended by the vehicles manufacturer. In numerous cases, members have suggested increasing an oils weight to address this issue (ie going from 0w-20 to 5w-30). But, I'm also aware there are thick and thin varieties of each weight mentioned. Mazda recommends 0w-20 for both of my vehicles. I'm in my mid 70's and it's a pretty good chance these will be my keepers for the future so I'm looking to keep them in the best of health assuming this to be true. Would I be better off sticking with 0w-20, albeit a thicker one, or bumping up to a thinner 5w-30? I will be using a 5000 mile oil changes interval on both cars and currently using Quaker State Full Synthetic 0w20. I believe this is also one of the thicker 0w-20 oils. Is there much viscosity difference between a thicker 0w-20 and a thinner 5w-30 or is a thicker 5w-30 a better option?

The answer has always been 10cSt at operating temperature and less than 6,000cP at your coldest starting temperature.

 

[Swifty]

I was in a similar situation, GDI motor, and turbo, and a known fuel diluter. I ended up settling on Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. The 5w30 variant meets API SP so if that is important there's that. If not either ESP 0/30 or 5/30 would be a solid choice.

 

[Propflux01]

If they were mine, NA or turbo, I would go with the Mobil One 0w-30 ESP. I currently use it both my CX5, and a Hyundai KONA 1.6T. Oil analysis has been spectacular. I think it would do wonderful in your Mazdas.