dino vs synthetic

[measureman]

I don't like to change my oil. But I do it anyway because I don't trust anyone else to do it.
So not liking to do it I use synthetic with a premium filter and let it go 7k to 8k.
I just feel better having synthetic in there that long and cost is not an issue with me.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Run conventional for 3k do a UOA.
Then run a synthetic for 3k, do a UOA..

Except those are data points and not trending data. Besides, UOAs are not designed for comparing one lube's performance to another, except in a very, very broad sense.

 

[Tzu]

I switched recently all our vehicles back from PP to PYB and have noticed nothing different except my piston slap 5.3 Silverado does seem quiter on PYB. I run them to OLM or 5,000 miles ish. I ran synthetics in them for over 100,000 miles each for 6 years so I can say I've been down that road. I'm happy with my choice. VOTE: Dino for me!

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Tzu
I switched recently all our vehicles back from PP to PYB and have noticed nothing different except my piston slap 5.3 Silverado does seem quiter on PYB. I run them to OLM or 5,000 miles ish. I ran synthetics in them for over 100,000 miles each for 6 years so I can say I've been down that road. I'm happy with my choice. VOTE: Dino for me!


If you just recently changed, what differance did you expect in a short amount time?

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: wemay
Run conventional for 3k do a UOA.
Then run a synthetic for 3k, do a UOA..

Except those are data points and not trending data. Besides, UOAs are not designed for comparing one lube's performance to another, except in a very, very broad sense.


Comparing dino to synthetic. Blackstone told me that they can't tell the differance between dino and syn from a simple UOA.

 

[Errtt]

Dunno but I have 3 vehicles....
1 - 24-30k a year 95%+ highway using synthetic.
1 - few k a year mostly in town, a couple short 1 hr+ out of town a year uses conventional
1 - couple k a year at most, 99.999% in town uses conventional

 

[Redpatches]

Got to run Synthetic in the Prius as she requires 0W-20 which I can run for 1 Year/10K if I choose. The Oddy can run at either 5W-20 or now 0W-20 according to Honda. Problem is the engine has the VTEC / VCM system which I hear is hard on oil, so I run synthetic in her as well. Don't mind as I can always find a good synthetic on sale.

 

[Tzu]

I went back to conventional just to see if the piston slap on my truck could be reduced. It does seems so, so I plan on sticking with it. I did not care about wear as much as noise. No noticeable difference in burning either. About 1/2 quart @ 5,000 with my Silverado and Impala with PP or PYB. The extra $9 saved is a bonus.

 

[Matryx]

synthetic as it's required for me vehicle.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I look at the wear metals in the UOA section and I don't see any better
wear numbers with synthetic -- often times even worse in many cases.


It's too bad wear numbers in an UOA are not indicative of real wear.


You are welcome to provide whatever evidence that you have to show us the difference in "real wear" bewteen dino and synthetic.


Run conventional for 3k do a UOA.
Then run a synthetic for 3k, do a UOA..


Betcha the synthetic will come back with lower wear numbers and have much much more life left in it..


I will take that bet. It is only true in fairy land.

 

[johnsmellsalot]

I use conventional oil in my own personal cars. I only use synthetic in my parent's cars because it is required.

 

[daves87rs]

Synthetic, but only because I have picked up some on good deals...

 

[Garak]

Exactly. Chevron published a paper about recent HDEOs some time ago (posted on here someplace) that indicated they had to do much more expensive testing than a simple VOA to narrow down what basestocks the competition was using.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Run conventional for 3k do a UOA.
Then run a synthetic for 3k, do a UOA..


Betcha the synthetic will come back with lower wear numbers and have much much more life left in it..

Ignoring the wear issue, let's look at the TBN side of things. A lot of the name brand synthetics are ACEA A1/B1 A5/B5 rated, including M1 and Syntec. They are required to have a higher starting TBN and are somewhat of a long drain specification.

Of course, TBN retention and initial TBN aren't exactly the same issue. But, when you look at synthetic PCMOs and HDEOs, you see starting TBN all over the map based upon what ACEA specifications apply and if there's a minimum (or maximum) initial TBN.

 

[Lex94]

Do you really think it's synthetic oil because the word "Synthetic" appears on the bottle?

 

[TiredTrucker]

I picked up on a 2013 Chevy Silverado last Memorial day. With the issues that some have had with the AFM design on the 5.3L engine, I decided to go with full synthetic, along with a couple of tweaks, to hopefully dodge any problem with the engine. Not really considering any cost difference. With a couple of oil changes a year, I am not going to have to take out a second mortgage to fund oil changes.

As far a whether the bottle says synthetic on it is it really synthetic? Who cares. I am not into the purist game of whether it is a group III or group IV. PAO's are made from something. It isn't like some dweeb in a lab coat is slobbering over some vat of brew he conjured up out of thin air. Group III and Group IV's are so close in real performance outside the lab and in the real world anyway. Most couldn't tell the difference if they tried to.

 

[rccsofla]

I vote for synthetic blend also.I use pennzoil synthetic blend and motorcraft synthetic blend.I even use bel-ray synthetic blend in my harley.Best of both worlds.