Dino or Synthetic? - Your real world experiences

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I just thought I would start a thread talking about Dino/Synthetic and your experiences and why you choose what you do.

... I will leave it for debate ...
 
I can't claim any 'experiences' because I've never had an engine failure nor have I done a UOA. I use synthetic due to having a turbo, driving in stop-and-go traffic in Texas summers, with an engine that is known for fuel dilution, in a car that takes a lot of short trips. It's worth the extra cost to me.
 
In my new Jeep, and favorite van I use synthetic oils and premium filters. Why, I feel they're better in extreme cold, extreme hot, and in the event something like a belt or hose fails, there is some extra protection. In my beater a good dino oil and a good filter, why because if something should fail I'll replace the beater.

I look at synthetic oil this way. People spend a lot of money on insurance, many never put in a claim, but if you've ever had a loss you're glad you paid for the insurance. Another thing, I don't frown upon people for making a choice that I don't agree with. To each his own, spend your money anyway you like, you can't take it with you!

Frank D
 
Have used Amsoil products since 1985 and have been happy with the performance, but the shipping has gone up so much,the oil is getting hard to justify when you have PP Platinum right at Walmart. I change my oil according to the OLM and really don't get the extended drain advantages of the Amsoil. I like the EAO filters too, but once again a Pure One would also be great for less than half the price. As far as dino VS synthetic, if you are going to keep a car, why wouldn't you use synthetic? Its less than $20.00 more a year!
 
I switched to synthetic this year from dino and synthetic blend. I'll never go back unless I have an old beater.

My reasons: better operating temperature under load, better fuel economy, and really easy spin-up on these cold Iowa mornings.
 
I used to be a dino type with the famous 3k OCI. Since I bought my Cadillac, it says in the owners manual and on the oil cap: Mobil 1 5w30. So it was my first experience with synthetic oil and I'm still using synthetic since then.

I cant tell you any bad or good experience because my knowledge on oil types and properties are very low. I've just started UOA with the synthetic and I'm very satisfied with the results.

I'm I going to use dino again? Not sure. Why? I felt peace in my head using synthetic. lol
 
As someone who has done too many miles over the years with never a issue and got into the board way too deep I've done quite a bit of UOAs in the same engine, same operation with different oils.

I've posted them here and everytime the conventional oils did just as good to better than syn in my motors. This includes engines that see 90% short trips to 95% highway.

When you post the UOAs that show the data, you get the following respones;

1. You can not trust a $20 UOA

2. Its because of your operation

3. Its because of your engine brand (Ford, Toyota, Chevy and Dodge are the brands I've posted)

Then as soon as their oil shows a good report, its the best oil in the world.

So, I've given up. I've spent more $$ in UOAs here than I've paid for oil in the last 20 years. I've been called "untruthful" even though I'm not here to sell anything or justify my $$ spent on oils.

So, bottom line for me who has run syn, conventional, normal and extended OCIs? Conventional oil for the recommended OCI per the manual.

If your manual states you NEED syn, excellent. Use it.

There is a difference between NEED and WANT.

But don't think that just because you use the "better" (not my opinion) oil that you will make the magic high mileage number.

Today's oils are excellent. (like Buster says, most conventional oils have some syn in them is correct) If we can get 200k plus on yesterdays oils, today it will NOT be the oil that caused a problem.

Take care, bill

PS: Also all of the reasons you see posted here on why they run syn (ie, smoother, better MPG, cooler running (one poster said his temps under the hood dropped..) I have not seen in a H4, V6, I4 or V8 of different brands in my or families use.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint


I look at synthetic oil this way. People spend a lot of money on insurance, many never put in a claim, but if you've ever had a loss you're glad you paid for the insurance. Another thing, I don't frown upon people for making a choice that I don't agree with. To each his own, spend your money anyway you like, you can't take it with you!


Very well stated Frank.
I just put in my first auto accident claim after 17 years with allstate. It was my fault in the accident, but Allstate never once put up a stink.
So I do get what you are saying.

I think if you get results from your methods, who cares what other says.

Cheers.
 
I will have two years on the SSO in my Volvo. I'm not worried in the least. Maybe dino oil could do that....but I've seen enough factual evidence (sludge) to show that it won't.
 
I'm waiting on a UOA that is triple what I can run on dino. I prefer to change my oil once or twice a year per piece of equipment rather then 5 times for 1 car. I also find my engines start easier when I am using syn even if its the same weight.
 
My experience with all synthetics has been negative (especially M1). They all "caused" piston slap in my engine. I wouldn't use M1 even if it was free. Almost all dino oil ran much quieter. I started using Valvoline just this year, and it has been the quietest by far. I'll keep using it until they change the formula to something far suckier (like castrol apparently did).
 
Originally Posted By: tripleM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint


I look at synthetic oil this way. People spend a lot of money on insurance, many never put in a claim, but if you've ever had a loss you're glad you paid for the insurance. Another thing, I don't frown upon people for making a choice that I don't agree with. To each his own, spend your money anyway you like, you can't take it with you!


Very well stated Frank.
I just put in my first auto accident claim after 17 years with allstate. It was my fault in the accident, but Allstate never once put up a stink.
So I do get what you are saying.

I think if you get results from your methods, who cares what other says.

Cheers.
Well you have to have insurance since it is the law.

I put in my first claim with Progressive (or any insurance company) after driving over 30 years. They took care of repairs and beyond with no hassle.

And Progressive is $700 less per year than Allstate.

Did I get what I paid for since I saved $700 on insurance?

Take care, bill

PS: Sucks that we now have to wait 3 years (2 years now) before we are deemed safe drivers again (actually my wife even though it was NOT her fault). She has never had a accident in 30plus years of driving and this happened. Oh well... lucky she was not injured and the repairs on the Subaru are good.
 
I've had nothing but great experiences with M1 in numerous vehicles, although I've made the switch to PP based on the slightly lower costs and the slightly better UOAs posted.

I've also had great experiences with conventional oil in a turbo-diesel (Chevron Delo 400 - 02 7.3 PSD).

Most the oils seem really good today, but I will always favor synthetics when it's reasonable (not in a 15 qt PSD). I've just seen too many engines that have run synthetic (mainly M1) come apart and have all of the internals look unused at well over 100K miles to not be a believer.
 
I noticed that synthetic oils spun up faster as one poster mentioned especially in the cold weather. I remember -20*F or lower temps, 5W-30 dino took forever to move the oil needle when I switched my pre-luber pump on. Same conditions with 5W-30 synthetic the needle was moving in less than half the time. Even in temps in the low 20's synthetic is moving faster than dino. That was all I needed to see. Granted an engine oil pump gets the oil moving a lot faster than my pre-luber, the pre-luber did show the difference. What does that translate to in the real world, probably not much. But for the person whose car sees a lot of stop and go, and repeated starting, and doesn't reach operating temps in the dead of winter it could mean a lot.

I'm not knocking dino oil, as I stated I use it, but when my Jeep or Van goes from treasured Gem to beater I'll switch to dino.

Again to each his own, spend your money however you want....Just Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank D
 
I'm well into my third year of oil experimentation on 1985 and 2005 vehicles, first is a 20W50 candidate the other is 5W20. The 1985 vehicle is at 196K miles with conventional (engine never opened).

Every situation is different but I'm finding, in MY situation, that a ~x2 price of synthetic can not be justified with cost/benefit analysis.

Take Pennzoil YB and PP from WM as example. $2.52 for YB which is likely a GrpII+ vs $4.01 for PP for an excellent GrpIII. 5W20 is 5W20 for both & meeting Ford's 930A spec. Do you believe going from a GrpII+ to a GrpIII will allow 60% more miles either in the OCI or engine life ???

I don't think so.
 
Me,I honestly can`t tell the difference. But,out of all the oils I`ve ever tried,Valvoline VR1 dino seems to be the smoothest,quietest,and seems to give my car the most wot power.
 
Originally Posted By: NutBuster
My experience with all synthetics has been negative (especially M1). They all "caused" piston slap in my engine. I wouldn't use M1 even if it was free. Almost all dino oil ran much quieter. I started using Valvoline just this year, and it has been the quietest by far. I'll keep using it until they change the formula to something far suckier (like castrol apparently did).


Yeah,M1 seemed to make my engine sound slightly "metallic". I got a killer deal on a case of RP 20W50 which runs really smooth! I may go buy a case of VR1 and alternate the oils on my oci`s just to keep from getting bored
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Synthetics are superior in extreme temps. IMO, I don't think that's debatable. For those of us whose vehicle is parked outside in the winter and you have regular 0 degree F starts, it is an issue--whether a big one or not--that is debatable. For me, better cold flow is worth the cost. I don't have sludge prone engines, but there are some that do and ask anyone of those people if synthetics are real world issue. For everyone else, as Bill believes, dinos are great. In my opinion just not 100% of the time.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

I've spent more $$ in UOAs here than I've paid for oil in the last 20 years.


I can't stop laughing at that line. It's the best.
 
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