Dino guys vs. syn guy's

[sHERM]

It seems that a lot of guys using Dino are getting 5k intervals and only suggest Dino oil, I assume for cost reasons. I personnaly use syn and right or not think it's protecting my engine better. I don't see a reason not to spend an extra $10 a change to use the best oil possible.

Do you guys using Dino really think that the Dino is protecting your engine just as good as syn?

I mean on a 5k interval, I still think the syn has better lubrication qualities and is protecting my engine better, as I assume other syn users are thinking the same thing.

 

[jbl]

By looking at UOAs it seems that Dino performs equal then used short distance around 3k

 

[tackleberry625]

IMO, if it were my vehicle and in good shape (does not use oil, leak, etc) I would stick with the synthetic. Just my opinion, synthetic is better.

 

[buster]

Synthetics are great for turbos, racing, longer drain intervals, extreme temperatures.

Remember though, many conventional oils are synthetic blends. Some use some Group III base oils, some use Group II+. So the gap has closed and additive technology is better.

Most API SM GF4 oils are good for at LEAST 5k miles.

 

[Titan]

I run 10,000 mile intervals, so, I like using "synthetics", especially since my average cost per quart is only about 1.75...I always buy on sale, and I use any rebate programs available.

 

[Kestas]

I'm a dino guy. I figure it is good enough. My vehicles have historically fallen apart long before I can have lubricant-related problems. If I decide to rebuild an engine (usually from bad leaks or other things falling apart), a history of synthetic oil won't make the rebuild any easier.

Besides the exceptions buster mentioned, to me using synthetic is like polishing stuff before you put it in the garbage.

 

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
My vehicles have historically fallen apart long before I can have lubricant-related problems.


That's why I polish/wax my truck every 2-3 months, detail the engine compartment each time I wax it and I had it undercoated when I bought it on top of running synthetic oils. I wanna see how many miles I can get out of it.

 

[Bill in Utah]

On YESTERDAYS oils, I have engines that have gone over 320k, many in the mid 200k and NEVER an engine issue that can be found to be oil related.

The engines are well running, clean, pass any smog that they have too and get high MPG.

With todays SL,SM oils (which NO ONE will disagree are BETTER than yesterdays oils without any question), you ARE getting protection if you follow the manual for OCI for todays engines.

But for some, only the "best"

for their engines and spend the "little" extra each time.

The oil companies love them.

For the record, my 324k engine has seen syn for 1 OCI, (that was around 25k in 1987) and on sale conventional oils for every other OCI. Total cost per oil change over 324k miles?

Under $5 including filter. (and most of the filters used was and STILL are Frams)

Engine has NEVER been apart other than timing belt changes. Original injectors, 1 alternator and water pump. Engine is clean, runs excellent and passes now California dyno smog with EASE. Uses about 1/4 of a quart every 5k miles. (my sister in law drives it now)

Spend some time reading past discussions and see the FACTS on oil and how far people go using what oils.

If you are extending you OCIs, then Syn is one way to go.

If your not following the Manual for OCI and type of oil these days, your WASTING money.

The days of 3k ocis just because (esp with "better"

syn oil) is just D U M B!

If you NEED to run syn (because the manual states it) then you have to.

If you WANT to, excellent. Just don't think that your engine will make it to some magic number just because you did.

Because the majority of cars/trucks on the road get 100k, 200k, 300k with normal oils.

And they don't worry about their oils. They are LUCKY if they change the stuff on time.

Yet, the engines continue down the road day after day, mile after mile.


Go look at the UOAs for the average 5k oci using Conventional oils and see that the oil is doing excellent.

Take care, bill

 

[heathenbrewing]

The reason I choose syns? It flows quicker at startup than the same weight dino, hence providing better protection.

 

[Dyoel182]

Originally Posted By: sHERM


Do you guys using Dino really think that the Dino is protecting your engine just as good as syn?


According to the used oil coming out of cars yes we do think it protects as good as a syn when you change it out every 6 months or 5,000 miles. [censored] some OEMs are extending that number to 7,500 and 10,000 on dino oil under their warranty plan. That should tell you something about protection.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: heathenbrewing
The reason I choose syns? It flows quicker at startup than the same weight dino, hence providing better protection.


Here is a 5,800 mile UOA on Castrol GTX (which is not considered one of the best cold weather oils) in a engine that saw below freezing weather ALL the time (and below zero).

Show me the start up wear using the conventional oil.

Also notice the TBN of 4.4.

Todays oils do great.

The rest of the discussion is here 5,800 miles Castrol GTX Toyota Corolla UOA

Take care, bill

 

[XPR]

I use synthetics and have from 1999. I see no reason to not use synthetic oils.

 

[Dyoel182]

Originally Posted By: XPR
I use synthetics and have from 1999. I see no reason to not use synthetic oils.


But what is your reason to use them? Extended OCIs?

 

[tackleberry625]

Bill.........so you always use the "cheapest" oil you can find whether it is "name brand" or not?

 

[twentynine]

Your statement agrees with what I have always said.

As long as you are using oil that is within speck, cheap oils do a very good job. In my opinion what makes more difference than the type of oil is, the care given to the vehicle. In other words, you can use a orange Fram filter with $.89 a quart oil and it will do a very good job. What is more important is changing the oil when it is time.

In the last 4 years, since I have been a member of BITOG I have not paid over $1 a quart for oil or over $2 for an oil filter. I have used Coastal full synthetic, Supertech, AAP house brand, discontinued Havoline, Shell and Exxon Uniflow. Always in combination with a AAP Total Grip filter costing about $1.50. Never have I found it necessary to use $7qt or a $10 filter and I think it is wastefull of my money to do so.

Currently I change the oil on 5 automobiles, 1 tractor and 1 4str OB. Taking just one for example is my 1500 Dodge with the Hemi engine. Last oil change I used 7 quarts of Coastal full synthetic 5w30, purchased from AZ on close out for $1 each, and an AAP AA-16 Total Grip filter purchased for $1.44. So the total cost for my oil change is under $10. I use a time scheduled OCI rather than a mileage scheduled OCI, because I change the oil on all 5 autos on the same day. If I used a mileage scheduled OCI I would be changing oil every weekend on one or the other. All of the cars end up with 5 to 7k miles between OCs.

Do the costly synthetic motor oils do a better job? Maybe. But in everyday service, with proper care I don't think Mr. Joe American will be able to tell the difference. Except in the pocket book.

 

[heathenbrewing]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah


The days of 3k ocis just because (esp with "better" syn oil) is just D U M B!


I dont know...seems there are too many variables to make such a broad statement. What if you run only short trips (less than 5 miles)? Wouldnt fuel dilution be more of a factor as to when to change the oil than an arbitrary mileage interval?

While I am skeptical about most of the claims that get slung around about syns (more HP, longer OCIs, etc.) there is one that I do not doubt and that is resistance to flow. I took a bottle of Castrol 5w30 dino and 1 bottle of PP 5w30 sys and put them both in my fridge O/N. The next morning, I poured them both out into seperate bowls. The PP drained first. Is this the most scientific method? No. Does this 'prove' anything? No. But it shows me that syn flows faster than dino when the temp drops to 45oF. I dont need fancy charts or probability graphs when, in this case, my eyes provide all the data I need.

That means that in my case, running syn costs me less than $2.00 more per change, and having recently found PP for $0.99/qt, it is now closer to $1.00 more to run syn.

To me, its a no brainer.

If I was unable to change my own oil and had to pay someone else to dn it, I would not have made the switch. The cost vs. benefit is just not worth it, at least, as of now.

 

[1999nick]

Originally Posted By: Dyoel182
Originally Posted By: XPR
I use synthetics and have from 1999. I see no reason to not use synthetic oils.


But what is your reason to use them? Extended OCIs?



I used M1 from the time it came out back in the mid 70's until I retired back in 2001. I always did a 1 year OCI, which usually amounted to 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Idid not keep my cars forever; 140,000 miles was the most I ever put on one. That one was still perfect and quiet as new.

If your engine is not a known sludger, or has a turbocharger, or like some Corvettes specifies synthetic to avoid the expense of an oil cooler, the ONLY reason to pay for synthetic is extended OCI's. As several have stated, regular dino will get you 200,000 to 400,000 miles if changed between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.

When I retired my annual mileage went down to about 6000 miles. I now change twice a year using most any dino. I can't see wasting good synthetic on a once a year 6000 mile OCI.

 

[Dyoel182]

Originally Posted By: heathenbrewing


I dont know...seems there are too many variables to make such a broad statement. What if you run only short trips (less than 5 miles)? Wouldnt fuel dilution be more of a factor as to when to change the oil than an arbitrary mileage interval?

That means that in my case, running syn costs me less than $2.00 more per change, and having recently found PP for $0.99/qt, it is now closer to $1.00 more to run syn.

To me, its a no brainer.


Exactly. There are always variables to consider but the used oil is mostly telling us that even sever drain intervals still have a lot of life left in them and arent adding to engine wear. I'm glad that oil life monitors are becoming more standard so people dont just head to the jiffy lube every 3000 miles just because they sticker from last time says so.

If I had access to the good PP deals that some people get I'd stock up as well but I dont have those stores nearby to make it worth my time on my two high mileage engines. If I ever do buy something new I'll probably just get the cheap motorcraft synthetic blend since I can get my hands on it and see what the OLM says before I drain it out.

 

[The Critic]

Synthetic oil is superior to conventional oils, but unless your application requires it, you are unlikely to reap the benefits.

I use conventional oil with Fram or Purolator filters every 7500 miles. I rarely change my oil more often than that. However, I always keep it topped up to the max mark. Also, I'm not loyal to any particular brand. I just pick-up whatever my buddy at the auto parts store has on sale for $0.49/qt. It used to be Chevron Supreme, lately it has been Formula Shell.

 

[Saab9-3]

Doesnt using sythetic help cut down demand on crude oil ? Or does syn still require crude but is hydrocrack?

If someone can confirm the above, then personally why wouldnt you use syn, so what it is more expensive, cutting down crude dependency and helping the enviroment would be justifiable enough for me.