Differential Cover

[Larry B.]

Hello ,
I have a 2000 E250 Van , took all the bolts out of the differential cover to change fluid and can't seem to get the cover off ... took drift pin with hammer and putty knife , cover not budging , any ideas ?
I think with the 373 rears I have 80W90 non Synthetic going to go to the 75W90 synthetic , Can anybody confirm what I have and comment on switching to the 75W90 Synthetic , either Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic is what my parts store sells.... thanks ,Larry B.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

i cannot comment on ur fluids cause i dont know much about it. but what i can say is those DIFF covers are sometimes a pain, especially when it has been there for years. what i have found that works for me is to get a small blade and cut into the seal if possible. dont cut the medal though. i think a heat gun would work in theroy because its heating up the seal to make it easier to come off as well. i did this to a couple of seals but not diff seals.

 

[Oilmeup]

It's times like that , that I am glad Nissan put drain plugs on the Differentials and Transmission. Good luck!

 

[Greaser]

I always use my old hunting knife to get the covers off...it is not that sharp and has a wide back on it...great for rapping with a hammer...they always come off with that bugger

...as for fluid...for a 250 sometimes 75W-140 synthetic is the way to go if you haul alot...check your owners manual..both the fluids you mentioned are good.

 

[MolaKule]

Well, I posted an answer last night but I guess it didn't stay in the thread?

I use a fine point chisel or hardened screwdriver blade and place the point between the cover and case in at least four spots around the cover.

The cover is made of fairly thick stamped steel and I have yet to bend a cover.

[ May 12, 2003, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]

 

[rugerman1]

quote:

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Originally posted by MolaKule:
Well, I posted an answer last night but I guess it didn't stay in the thread?

I use a fine point chisel or hardened screwdriver blade and place the point between the cover and case in at least four spots around the cover.

The cover is made of fairly thick stamped steel and I have yet to bend a cover.

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That post is in Mechanical Problems, Tips, and Tricks section

Mark

 

[MolaKule]

Thanks Rugerman1. So many posts, so little time, so little Grey Matter!

 

[Steve S]

Larry ,the Differential cover is sealed using rtv or commonly called silicone sealant, to remove the cover a rubber or dead blow hammer is the best if using a 5 lb hammer use a chunk of wood to protect the cover and it will take a solid wack on the part that sticks out hit it so it shears the sealant to break loose the sealant. Also works on oil pans and valve covers.

 

[Larry B.]

Hey Greaser,
Great call using the old hunting knife >>> Worked like a charm ...came right off as you said !!!
think I,m going with the 75W90 Synthetic Castrol for about $4.50 a pint , Mobil 1 is about $8.50 a pint for 75W90... any comments ? on either of those / What the heck has Mobil 1 got in their synthetic which warrants double the price , maybe the name only ... hmmm
Anyways stock oil was 80W90 non synthetic the 75W140 synthetic seems a lot thicker than what Ford puts in their 373 rears ... thanks again for the tip... Larry B.

 

[Greaser]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Larry B.:
Hey Greaser,
Great call using the old hunting knife >>> Worked like a charm ...came right off as you said !!!
think I,m going with the 75W90 Synthetic Castrol for about $4.50 a pint , Mobil 1 is about $8.50 a pint for 75W90... any comments ? on either of those / What the heck has Mobil 1 got in their synthetic which warrants double the price , maybe the name only ... hmmm
Anyways stock oil was 80W90 non synthetic the 75W140 synthetic seems a lot thicker than what Ford puts in their 373 rears ... thanks again for the tip... Larry B.

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YA...I tried alot of things...hitting it with a piece of wood would make it come off uncontrolable..chisel or screwdriver might take a gouge out of the diff face...the thick knife starts clean between the two surfaces and then you can rap it till you almost have the entire blade burried in between the two surfaces...then I put a thick screwdriver in and pry it off the rest of the way...I always went with the 75W-140 synthetic out back...pricey but I do tow occasionally and like the extra film thickness on my gears.The owners manual says to go this route,so I do.Castrol is allright gear oil,Mobil is a tad better..worth the extra money...who knows...I got a good deal on Pennzoil synthetic so thats what I use...Redline is touted on this board for axles...maybe for the amount of time the oil is in there maybe going for a better lube is worth the extra bucks...if you have the money....I know an axle rebuild isn't cheap.