Did You Do A "Break-In" Oil Change On Your Riding Lawn Mower/Zero-Turn?

I do the first one early. 1-2 hours then dump it. if it looks "shimmery" (it will most of the time). I reload with a 30 W oil (straight, 10W or 5W. Im in the south so it doesnt matter) then run another 1-2 hours. If it looks shimmery again I keep going until it looks clean. Then I'll extend like mentioned above. 10 hours. if still clean 20 hours if still clean 100 or 1 year.

It takes a while for these engines to clean themselves out.

I found running synthetic, the oil does not darken quickly. Stays honey all year long so I change it every year now. By synthetic I mean anything in the walmart isle. Supertech, pennzoil, QS. etc
 
Remember the dirty oil goes through the oil pump before going through the filter.
I can see your point.
My 71 Wheel Horse with a 12hp ball bearing Kohler never had an oil filter and as a kid
I drove it daily and used it for everything. Still runs today and never had any engine work.
It didn't do a little yard either and I used it as a business mower- others yards..

The worst thing I did was set it aside the last 10 years but still runs well.
To me 5hrs is excessive unless you know you are sending out these out "dirty"
That said.......... I have no issue with others doing whatever. None of us should.
 
This is the recommendation from JD for the 25 hp Kawasaki 750 liquid cooled engine. They use a break in oil.

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20 hours is fine. I've got a 2006 ariens/gravley hvz 2350. A cheap residential unit with a kholer courage and i change the oil every 3 years with 15w-40. About 35 hours gets put on it yearly, doesn't use oil either. A seal inside the right hydrostat failed a couple months ago but I carefully took it apart and fixed it and it works great now. Overall not bad. For a cheap residential model it's been good to me. Never had an engine problem.
 
That is a very different engine than what we have.
I realize that. But in reality it is still an engine with the same basic components. I have followed their regimen other than I use a 0W-40 oil. The engine has 1,500 hours on it and runs like new with 0 consumption. It is expected to go 3,000 hours.
 
Read the Kawasaki engine manual that came with your mower. The Kawasaki manual doesn’t call for a special break in period. It states 100 hours or yearly.
Your Gravely owners manual may specify something different.
You are in Tennessee so, 15W40 Diesel oil, 15W50 Mobil 1, or 20W50. Don’t over think it. It isn’t necessary to use a synthetic motor oil. Shell Rotella T5 15W40 is good. Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 is good. Valvoline VR1 20W50 is good. Kawasaki states that an engine using oil should go with a 20W50.
For an oil filter, use FRAM TG4967, STP S4967, Super Tech MP4967.
All Hydo-Gear requires for the transaxles is 20W50 engine oil. You can use what you like.
https://www.hydro-gear.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/BLN-52441_P25-23.pdf
 
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My DR brush hog had a similar engine. I changed it at 10 hours, and, though it’s been a while, I think that was what the manual recommended.

The only risk to changing it early is to your wallet.
 
Went ahead and changed the oil and oil filter on the ZTXL after mowing today.

24.7 hrs total on the machine.

M1 15W-50 and Kawasaki OEM filter. Next time I may try a Fram 4967 or the like.

We’ll see how quickly the hours get racked up. It’ll be used year-round to mow, and then mulch leaves in the fall.

Now I’ll feel better about it running full-throttle for hours at 90°F+ ambient temps.
 
Went ahead and changed the oil and oil filter on the ZTXL after mowing today.

24.7 hrs total on the machine.

M1 15W-50 and Kawasaki OEM filter. Next time I may try a Fram 4967 or the like.

We’ll see how quickly the hours get racked up. It’ll be used year-round to mow, and then mulch leaves in the fall.

Now I’ll feel better about it running full-throttle for hours at 90°F+ ambient temps.
Personally, I would avoid the FRAM Orange Can. I don’t have a problem with the FRAM Tough Guard.
 
Personally, I would avoid the FRAM Orange Can. I don’t have a problem with the FRAM Tough Guard.
I've used and cut open quite a few orange cans now and they all look fine, especially for lawn mower applications. Some have been on for years, long enough that most of the paint wore off, and still looked good inside. The OEM filters are all pretty similar inside to the cheapest Fram and Champ filters.
 
I've used and cut open quite a few orange cans now and they all look fine, especially for lawn mower applications. Some have been on for years, long enough that most of the paint wore off, and still looked good inside. The OEM filters are all pretty similar inside to the cheapest Fram and Champ filters.
I’m basing my recommendations on the recent Orange Cans that we’ve seen dissected here lately. The Champ and Champ made filters look much better cut open.
However, the one you dissected, with the purple ADBV, looked pretty good.
 
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I’m basing my recommendations on the recent Orange Cans that we’ve seen dissected here lately. The Champ and Champ made filters look much better cut open.
However, the one you dissected, with the purple ADBV, looked pretty good.
About the same price as SuperTech and ST certainly look better made - lots of evenly spaced pleats …
 
With about 20 hours on my new 2022 Gravely ZT-XL (42", 21.5 HP Kawasaki FR651V 726cc air-cooled v-twin, Hydro-Gear ZT-2800 transaxles) that I bought in September when we moved into our new-to-us house on 1.1 acres, I'm considering going ahead and changing the oil and filter soon.

I've decided to use Mobil 1 15W-50, since the oil temps on these air-cooled engines can get pretty high (around 260*F from what someone posted here), and the Kawasaki engines have been known to use a bit of oil, and also because the hydrostatic transaxles' factory fill is, from what I understand, M1 15W-50, and it'll simplify things just to use one oil for both.

The engine did use a few ounces of oil in the first few hours of use, and I topped off with M1 15W-50. However, since that first few hours, it's used very little (not enough to need topping off).

Anyway, with mowing season now in full swing, I'm mowing every week, and daytime highs will soon regularly be over 90*F. So I'm leaning towards going ahead and draining the FF in the next few weeks and filling with the M1 15W-50, despite the fact that the Kawi engine manual doesn't specify an oil change until 100 hours, and a filter change is not required until 200 hrs.

I haven't made a decision on which oil filter to use and I'm open to suggestions if there's something better than the OEM Kawi 49065-0721.

So, what did you guys do?View attachment 158561View attachment 158562
The Ariens/Gravely manuals call for 5 hour initial changes on both the engine and hydros, at least in my manual. I’m coming up on my second change, waiting on HPL to confirm they have a fluid to replace the Amsoil ASF & hydro fluid I used when I changed them out.
 
Fram 3614 or 3600 size filter may work, the gasket is a little larger.
Mine called for the 3614 equivalent, but a 3600 fits with about 3/8” clearance to get it on there, so that’s what I used. It’s protected by the Ariens engine “cage”, so no risk of damage. I’m at ~130 hours on that filter; I will probably use a Fram Synthetic Endurance on it next.
 
I did on the motor at 5 hrs, also changed the fluid in the KT46 (hydrostat) after the first season. It was very glittery, and it has been done once or twice since then. I've forgotten and would have to look at the log I keep at home. But the second change was much better, so I think I'll probably schedule it for 100 hour changes from here on out.
 
I did on the motor at 5 hrs, also changed the fluid in the KT46 (hydrostat) after the first season. It was very glittery, and it has been done once or twice since then. I've forgotten and would have to look at the log I keep at home. But the second change was much better, so I think I'll probably schedule it for 100 hour changes from here on out.
Do your hydros have filters on them? Or just a drain plug
 
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