Did the wife's brakes today

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Originally Posted By: The Critic

GM does not require brake fluid changes on DOT3 vehicles. Power steering fluid changes are not required either -- by most manufacturers.

Yes, changing DOT3 brake fluid may not be a bad idea - but it's definitely not required for every application. I am sure that GM came up with their recommendation after lots of testing and studying of the failure rates over the anticipated lifespan of the vehicle.

I've seen many 10-15 year old cars with the original hydraulics and the original fluid and they worked fine. In fact, they worked better than the ones where people had changed the fluid - as many brake fluid changes result in people letting some amount of air into the system.

And once you add the possibility of broken bleeder screws, complications with ABS and the additional time involvement - most beginner to moderately-skilled DIYers are better off leaving the system alone... if the OEM does not require brake fluid changes.


You would be surprised at how much braking efficiency is lost with 4-5 year old brake fluid. Regardless of whether GM requires it or not, it IS a fluid, it does absorb moisture, and it does break down. And we all know quite well about some of GM's decisions.

When I do full brakes on a car a fluid exchange is a requirement for me. I've seen the results of a fluid exchange many times.
 
Congrats! Being able to do stuff yourself is an incredible skill to gain. Not only does it save you money, but it keeps you informed about your vehicle and prevents you from being taken by a shop.
 
Originally Posted By: Ken42
The cost of turning the drums vs new drums is only a few bucks.
Better off just getting new drums
I have found rear drums typically last twice the front pads.

Doing drums is a bit more complicated then the front rotors. Make sure you have a good set of pliers for the springs. Also watch the video twice or 3 times. Finally only do one side at a time incase you forget how it goes back together
wink.gif


Ken

The cost of turning an OEM drum, versus a bargain basement drum may not be so bad, but I find such drums to be inferior to an OEM drum. If you look at a Toyota OEM drum and a basic aftermarket one, you will quickly see what I mean.
 
Originally Posted By: Anduril
Having never done it before, with only a YouTube video to guide me, the process on both front wheels only took me a little more than an hour from taking the tires off to putting them back on. Only cost $60 in parts from Rock Auto, including brand new rotors ("they're making a funny noise," she said. Honey, that's the sound of metal on metal...). I used to think brakes were some drawn-out complicated affair best left to a shop; after having done it I'm annoyed at the money I was wasting.


Congrats and what a good feeling. I too recently did my first brake job front pads & rotors on a 2008 Nissan Armada having only watched a few videos. Replaced pad shims/guide pin boots, cleaned/lubed caliper guide pins/bores as well as the back of the pads and the ends where they seat into the shims. I used Permatex Ultra Silicone High Temp brake lube . It wasn't my car and the owner is amazed at how quiet and how much better the brakes are.

The tools I'd picked up last winter really came in handy. 1/2" and 3/8" breaker bars for loosening the bolts, dual piston compressor tool was also clutch.

Good to know that I can take care of my pads/rotors when the time comes. I'll put the money in higher quality parts rather than pay exorbitant labor costs.

I recently stumbled across Rock Auto and plan on purchasing most of my parts from them.
 
The only tool I had to buy was a 3/8" allen wrench attachment for my ratchet to break the slide pins loose. Used a large C-clamp to compress the piston (this is the way they say to do it in my Haynes manual, actually).

Drove the car ~50 miles today and didn't get in a horrible wreck so I guess I did things properly.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Brake fluid should be bleed every 2-4 years. Changing pad is perfect time to bleed the brake because you already have the wheel off, time to bleed 1 wheel is less than 5 minutes with Mityvac 7201.

There are 2 type of fluids in a car that many drivers ignore: brake fluid and power steering fluid.


GM does not require brake fluid changes on DOT3 vehicles. Power steering fluid changes are not required either -- by most manufacturers.

Yes, changing DOT3 brake fluid may not be a bad idea - but it's definitely not required for every application. I am sure that GM came up with their recommendation after lots of testing and studying of the failure rates over the anticipated lifespan of the vehicle.

I've seen many 10-15 year old cars with the original hydraulics and the original fluid and they worked fine. In fact, they worked better than the ones where people had changed the fluid - as many brake fluid changes result in people letting some amount of air into the system.

And once you add the possibility of broken bleeder screws, complications with ABS and the additional time involvement - most beginner to moderately-skilled DIYers are better off leaving the system alone... if the OEM does not require brake fluid changes.


Roger that. I've never flushed brake fluid and I keep my vehicles till the end. You can say that my braking performance has diminished due to the moisture that was somehow absorbed into the sealed system, but I sure can't tell.
 
If you haven't changed the fluid, then you can't tell. The slow change in performance is hard to notice. Just like it is for dead struts.

On my Jetta I've always been able to feel a difference after a brake fluid change.
 
She does do a bit of "hard" braking but also drives mostly on country roads/freeways with few stops. She got at least 7 yrs/84k out of these pads (they have not been changed since the car was purchased in 2006) so I'm fine with that.
 
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