Did i miss this one? (New Castrol)

[MaDMaXX]

http://www.bp.com/assets/bp_internet/cas...ol_EDGE_FAQ.pdf

Whilst that explains something, at least from Castrol's perspective, did anyone here note it and are there any reports from the field on the new stuff?

I'm wondering if i should switch to the titanium in my 350z, currently i'm using PP.

 

[CATERHAM]

From all account the use of Ti is as a cheaper substitute for the more expensive moly.
IMO that's not a valid reason to switch away from PP.

 

[45ACP]

Stay with what works, OP.

I have also heard of people using GC in your car...

 

[Rand]

the 0w20 has one of the worst VI's ever of a modern oil.

 

[MaDMaXX]

I'm using 5w30, so no problems with the 0w20, i understand it's kind of an odd one out.

I wanted to try a thicker 5w30, as the VQ35DE prefers that, however, i detest Moble1.

I might have a look for GC, but it's from Autozone, who rip you a new one on oil prices

Caterham, is the Moly content of PP good then? I'll be sending away a sample of the current 5w30 PP to Blackstone if my kit ever arrives, timing sucks though as i'm due to change now.

 

[45ACP]

It doesn't pass the cost test, but.. Redline 5W-30.

Originally Posted By: MaDMaXX
I'm using 5w30, so no problems with the 0w20, i understand it's kind of an odd one out.

I wanted to try a thicker 5w30, as the VQ35DE prefers that, however, i detest Moble1.

I might have a look for GC, but it's from Autozone, who rip you a new one on oil prices

Caterham, is the Moly content of PP good then? I'll be sending away a sample of the current 5w30 PP to Blackstone if my kit ever arrives, timing sucks though as i'm due to change now.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: MaDMaXX
I'm using 5w30, so no problems with the 0w20, i understand it's kind of an odd one out.

I wanted to try a thicker 5w30, as the VQ35DE prefers that, however, i detest Moble1.

I might have a look for GC, but it's from Autozone, who rip you a new one on oil prices

Caterham, is the Moly content of PP good then? I'll be sending away a sample of the current 5w30 PP to Blackstone if my kit ever arrives, timing sucks though as i'm due to change now.

No PP 5W-30 doesn't contain much moly but is a fine oil nontheless. GC contains no moly.

Don't know why you want to use a heavier oil. A 5W-30 like PP, PU, M1 or Edge is as hezvy as necessary for street use.

 

[MaDMaXX]

Yeah, that's something else i considered, any idea on how much for 5qts? and the best place for it?

 

[MaDMaXX]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: MaDMaXX
I'm using 5w30, so no problems with the 0w20, i understand it's kind of an odd one out.

I wanted to try a thicker 5w30, as the VQ35DE prefers that, however, i detest Moble1.

I might have a look for GC, but it's from Autozone, who rip you a new one on oil prices

Caterham, is the Moly content of PP good then? I'll be sending away a sample of the current 5w30 PP to Blackstone if my kit ever arrives, timing sucks though as i'm due to change now.

No PP 5W-30 doesn't contain much moly but is a fine oil nontheless. GC contains no moly.

Don't know why you want to use a heavier oil. A 5W-30 like PP, PU, M1 or Edge is as hezvy as necessary for street use.



Like i said, it seems the engine likes a thicker variant of the 5w30.

 

[Maxima97]

Moly is added as fail-safe in case of oil film is shear out leave metal-metal contact. If you tow heavy loads and climb hill, the added FM like moly and Ti may help to protect you engine. Moly and Ti are all added cost to oil company. PYB has moly not because shell want to add value to you, it is because their base is Group 2 and oil shear resistant is not as good as their flagship oil like PP/PU. You may add some LiqiMoly MoS2 to your oil as additional protection.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Maxima97
Moly is added as fail-safe in case of oil film is shear out leave metal-metal contact. If you tow heavy loads and climb hill, the added FM like moly and Ti may help to protect you engine. Moly and Ti are all added cost to oil company. PYB has moly not because shell want to add value to you, it is because their base is Group 2 and oil shear resistant is not as good as their flagship oil like PP/PU. You may add some LiqiMoly MoS2 to your oil as additional protection.

That's not exactly accurate.
Boundary lubrication occurs in all engines in the valve train and the ring/bore areas. AW additives like ZDDP, Moly and others play a critical role here.
Additionally very high levels of organic moly can also contribute to an oil's fuel efficiency.

 

[MaDMaXX]

I've not heard of that, expensive? easy to obtain?

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: MaDMaXX
I've not heard of that, expensive? easy to obtain?


Get some Redline 5W-30 from Redline oil site, www.redline.com

The oil lubrication debate is irrelevant to what you want to do, OP.

Redline has LOTS of Moly, is a bit thicker as your VQ engine prefers (confirm with owners and forum users for your car,) and it a fine oil for 6000+ mile OCI, maybe 7k if it were me.

Id use Redline 5W-30 here.

 

[CATERHAM]

Yes RL is high-end option if you don't mind the higher cost.
Their 0W-30 would be a better choice to their 5W-30 (it's really a 40wt oil).
The 0W-30 is still heavier than most OTC 5W-30's plus it's more shear stable. You'll also benefit from it's 183 VI on start-up.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes RL is high-end option if you don't mind the higher cost.
Their 0W-30 would be a better choice to their 5W-30 (it's really a 40wt oil).
The 0W-30 is still heavier than most OTC 5W-30's plus it's more shear stable. You'll also benefit from it's 183 VI on start-up.


I have a 0W obsession, this is true! I simply ask, what application would you choose a 5W over a 0W?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes RL is high-end option if you don't mind the higher cost.
Their 0W-30 would be a better choice to their 5W-30 (it's really a 40wt oil).
The 0W-30 is still heavier than most OTC 5W-30's plus it's more shear stable. You'll also benefit from it's 183 VI on start-up.

I have a 0W obsession, this is true! I simply ask, what application would you choose a 5W over a 0W?
It's not whether the oil is a 5W or 0W, but rather more about the oil's viscosity index which has relevance at all start-up temperatures.
There are some high VI 5W oils but it is usually the 0W oils that possess that attribute.

 

[CATERHAM]

It's not whether the oil is a 5W or 0W that matters, but rather more about the oil's viscosity index which has relevance at all start-up temp's.
There are some high Vi 5W oils but it is usually the 0W oils that possess that attribute.

 

[djipka]

For the VQ35 all I have read (and I read a lot) is that for FS oil M1 0w-40 or GC are best. PP in 10w-30 seems to also do a good job.

On that note, has anyone seen M1 0w-40 at wally world?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: djipka
For the VQ35 all I have read (and I read a lot) is that for FS oil M1 0w-40 or GC are best. PP in 10w-30 seems to also do a good job.
On that note, has anyone seen M1 0w-40 at wally world?

If M1 0W-40 and GC are good then PP 10W-30 is a poor choice, being both heavier on start-up and much lighter at operating temp's.

 

[matts11]

Caterham, not to hijack this thread but back to the moly questions on the first page. In an engine like the VQ that is tough on oil wouldn't the OP be better off using a high moly oil? If that is the case, would there be much difference in engine efficiency or protection from using PYB and doing 3-5k change intervals than using PP for 10k intervals?