Did i miss this one? (New Castrol)

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: matts11
If that is the case, would there be much difference in engine efficiency or protection from using PYB and doing 3-5k change intervals than using PP for 10k intervals?


That's precisely what I'm doing with my G37 - PYB with severe service intervals.

 

[djipka]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: djipka
For the VQ35 all I have read (and I read a lot) is that for FS oil M1 0w-40 or GC are best. PP in 10w-30 seems to also do a good job.
On that note, has anyone seen M1 0w-40 at wally world?

If M1 0W-40 and GC are good then PP 10W-30 is a poor choice, being both heavier on start-up and much lighter at operating temp's.


The PP in 10w30 is actually better for the VQ than the 5w30. There was a thread on here talking about that.

 

[djipka]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: matts11
If that is the case, would there be much difference in engine efficiency or protection from using PYB and doing 3-5k change intervals than using PP for 10k intervals?


That's precisely what I'm doing with my G37 - PYB with severe service intervals.


The VQ has a small sump and unless you do regular UOAs I personally wouldn't do 10k with any oil unless its gets burned/leaks and you add more along the way.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: djipka
The VQ has a small sump and unless you do regular UOAs I personally wouldn't do 10k with any oil unless its gets burned/leaks and you add more along the way.


I just follow the severe service schedule, which is 3750 miles. It's still under warranty, so I'm not even contemplating extending the OCI yet.

 

[djipka]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: djipka
The VQ has a small sump and unless you do regular UOAs I personally wouldn't do 10k with any oil unless its gets burned/leaks and you add more along the way.


I just follow the severe service schedule, which is 3750 miles. It's still under warranty, so I'm not even contemplating extending the OCI yet.


Gotcha

 

[MaDMaXX]

So, based on some convo's with Blackstone, obviously some oils will be more suited to certain engines than others.

But overall, they notice the same kind of wear rates amongst all the top tier oils, boutiques included.


So based on that, i'd say it has to be down to the first comment, ie. which good oil fits the engine better than another?

So far we've had someone say, 10w30 PP isn't good, followed by someone saying there is proof it *is* good.

Redline does seem to have a higher viscosity rating than PP and PU, 10.3 Vs 10.6 IIRC.


The redline number is correct at 10.6 but here are the numbers from shells EPC.

Penzoil Ultra
@ 100°C, cSt
5w30 10.3
10w30 10.5

@ 40°C, cSt
5w30 58.9
10w30 66.2

Penzoil Platinum
@ 100°C, cSt
5w30 10.25
10w30 10.37

@ 40°C, cSt
5w30 55.2
10w30 61.7

 

[MaDMaXX]

So the other info i got, was a lot of samples using Moble1 and Castrol.

A quick look at the 100c cSt reveals some interesting things for Castrol (still won't touch Moble1)

These are all for the 5w30 'weight' @100 cSt

Castrol Edge with FST (top oil)
9.8

Castrol Edge with SPT (next one down, old Castrol Syntec, like PP)
10.7

Castrol Syntec Blend
11.0


For comparison:

Redline
10.6

Penzoil Ultra
10.3

Penzoil Platinum
10.3 (or 10.25 depending on the sheet you read from Shell)



So i think depending on what's at wallys world, it'll be Castrol Syntec or syntec blend.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's not whether the oil is a 5W or 0W that matters, but rather more about the oil's viscosity index which has relevance at all start-up temp's.
There are some high Vi 5W oils but it is usually the 0W oils that possess that attribute.


Now, this "viscosity index." 2 questions:

1. Isnt this most relevant at "Start-up," for "cold flow?" (from turn-key to lubricating remote-most engine points) .. does 0W -ALWAYS- hold the advantage? I remember you saying that PP 5W-30 is so thin that it flows better (at start-up, cold) than, say, RL 0W-20.

2. What relevance does this have to fully warmed oil? Im not fully processing how it helps in 118-degree Phoenix Arizona heat, noontime traffic idling, AC full blast, key turned 5 minutes before and driven an hour before short turn-off (fully warmed, exaggerated.)

I like GC oil, RL 0W-20, and ST 5W-20 to recommend. I know ST 10S-40 is "on the thin side," and those are oils i find myself recommending. Not really a Valvoline fanboy anymore.

 

[MaDMaXX]

1) The cold flow/cranking is for startup.

2) The 100c is relevant here, thicker will usually standup longer under high stress/heat situations.