Dr. T,
You probably have more of a clue than the Mobil rep you questioned. The customer service reps are notorious for their poor and inaccurate knowledge of the products they represent.
Deposit removal due to switching to Synthetic Motor Oil
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You probably have more of a clue than the Mobil rep you questioned. The customer service reps are notorious for their poor and inaccurate knowledge of the products they represent.
Mobil does not make a high mile engine oil but here is the additive package of the SL 10/30 Drive Clean,,not as much Mag as some but here it is FWIW- It needs one quart of Phillips 15/40 brewed into it
IMO of course! 
Additives
Molybdenum 1
Sodium 0
Magnesium 13
Zinc 1030
Potassium 1
Phosphorus 869
Calcium 1900
I have a high-miler Volvo 740 that I changed over to Amsoil 10W40 at 350,000 KM. I cut the first oil filter open 10,000 KM (6200 mi.) and found an unbelievable amount of crud accumulated in the pleats. (fine granular black stuff) I then ran a dose of Auto RX in the engine and at the next 10,000 KM interval, the filter was cut open again - there was no increase in the amount of junk in the filter.
To make a long story short, it took 4 filter changes before I cut open a clean filter. (5th filter) Now, I do not know whether the base stock or the additives were responsible for the cleaning, but I do know that there was alot of cleaning going on.
1) I was surprised to see that the cleaning did not pick up noticeably with the Auto RX.
2) I was also surprised that this engine was as dirty as it was - prior to the Amsoil, it was run on Castrol Syntec at 10,000 KM drain intervals.
To make a long story short, it took 4 filter changes before I cut open a clean filter. (5th filter) Now, I do not know whether the base stock or the additives were responsible for the cleaning, but I do know that there was alot of cleaning going on.
1) I was surprised to see that the cleaning did not pick up noticeably with the Auto RX.
2) I was also surprised that this engine was as dirty as it was - prior to the Amsoil, it was run on Castrol Syntec at 10,000 KM drain intervals.
MoleKule:
I didn't list improved biodegradability as an advantage of synthetic base oils, ExxonMobil did. And I never implied that mineral oils were more biodegradeable than synthetics. You said that "Mineral oils (including Group III) are not very biodegrable". I just stated the industry term that is used to describe the biodegradability of mineral oils. The smart one in the group is Dr. T who recognizes that my biodegradability comment was completely
68redlines73
Tommy, apparently Auto-RX does not work as quickly in synthetic oils:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000026
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=000026
Giles
I'm Australian distributor for Auto-Rx and wanted to see how extended cleaning periods worked. 800kms 1st clean, then 1,500kms 2nd clean and nearly 3000kms into 3rd and last clean. I had to change the PureONE filter at 2000kms as it was obviously blocked (noisy tappets). I'm surprised there is still junk to clean out.
I'm Australian distributor for Auto-Rx and wanted to see how extended cleaning periods worked. 800kms 1st clean, then 1,500kms 2nd clean and nearly 3000kms into 3rd and last clean. I had to change the PureONE filter at 2000kms as it was obviously blocked (noisy tappets). I'm surprised there is still junk to clean out.
sprintman, that's a good way to understand the product your selling
How many miles are on your engine and is it gas or diesel?
89 Mazda turbo 198,000kms. Oil used pre clean was Delvac 1 and before that M1 0W40 Trisyn and dino's before that ofthe 20W50, 25W70 or 15W60 variety. First and 2nd cleans done in the winter with Pennzoil 10W30 SL Purebase (first go at a 30W oil), 3rd clean Pennzoil 10W30/Castrol GTX2 20W50 dino mix (summer). Only use PureONE filters (no M1 filters here unfortunately)
It would have been nice if that bit of information was in their instructions.
From what I have seen, I am wondering if just running a good synthetic does as much for cleaning as Auto RX does - running multiple doses of Auto RX in conventional oil and then switching back over to synthetic is not only expensive, but it is alot of playing around.
Patman
Staff member
I don't think so. It's been explained to us a few times here that oils can only do one thing, either clean or lubricate but not both. So no oil out there is really going to do a super job of cleaning up past messes, a good oil will prevent it from getting dirty in the future though. So I don't believe that if you take a sludged up old engine and just stick in synthetic, that it will ever get as clean as when using Auto-rx.
I had been using Mobil 1 for a few intervals when I first bought my used LT1 Formula, and still had a ticking valvetrain, and my first oil analysis on Maxlife showed a lot of sulfur in the oil, high iron metals, and very rapid oxidation. I ran Auto-rx, and then on my next oil analysis with Maxlife (now with the SL formula, which also has LESS detergents mind you) my sulfur went down to zero (which Terry explained to mean meant I am now getting better ring seal) my iron wear metals are cut way down (from 15ppm on a 2400 mile run down to 5ppm on a 3300 mile run!) and the oxidation went from 40% down to only 9% (keeping in mind that on the 9% result it was a longer interval too!)
So in essence, I'm a believer, my oil analysis results proved that Auto-rx works, and that Mobil 1 did not clean up my previously dirtied up engine.
They sure restrict pressure/volume?? quickly when used in conjunction with Auto-RX. I probably would use a lesser filter in the future for Auto-Rx cleaning.
You can certainly clean high mileage engines using Amsoil or Redline, but it may take 10,000 miles to get the engine really clean. The thing to do is keep changing oil filters until the oil consumption stabilizes.
Very dirty oil provides a poor piston ring seal, so if oil consumption goes way up after a few thousand miles, you know the motor had heavy deposits.
TS
Very dirty oil provides a poor piston ring seal, so if oil consumption goes way up after a few thousand miles, you know the motor had heavy deposits.
TS
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