Defeated...Brake rotor separated from rotor hat during hammering....

[sky]

This is what happened today as I prepared to do a rotor change after getting all the parts in. A part of this problem seems to be that these are OEM rotors with 100k miles on them in the New England. Here is what I have done..

I have a dead blow hammer, M8 screws, torch, as well as a huge ass pry bar.

The M8 screws didn't do anything and it stripped the threads in the holes in the rotors. I tried to keep heating it with the torch and banging on it with a 4lb deadblow and it hasn't budged one bit. I have been trying to pry the hat against the rotor ring. At this point, I'm about to try to put things back together and having it towed since I'm out of ideas and the vehicle isn't drivable.

 

[hemitom]

Access to a set of torch's ?
Put the lug nuts back on to protect the studs and pound the **** out of the hat ! get a big punch , chisel , piece of steel get in close to the hub and pound ! it will eventually break free.
I ran into the same problem on a Chrysler 300 3 of the rotors came off with a little coaxing with a 4 pound hammer the fourth on the rear took all afternoon my shoulder and arm were numb but it finally gave in !
torch would have been a god send but thats just my luck.

 

[bullwinkle]

Take a grinder, grind a big notch across the hat, use an air chisel-it’ll crack in half. I’ve also ground the notch, used the biggest chisel I have & bust out the BFH, take out my frustrations… FUN!! The danger of the torch is it can easily ruin the wheel bearing seals!

 

[D60]

I've used the Astro puller along with blue wrench heat on the hat. Then preload puller and use a flat face air hammer attachment and beat the he ll out of the WMS. Preload, heat, vibrate. Repeat.

Install a couple lugnuts by a couple threads so it doesn't fly off and hit you when it releases

 

[joekingcorvette]

I have replaced rotors and brakes with success however at this point in life I bring it to a mechanic. I just do not have very good luck with brakes because I have limited tools, torches, and pullers. The pads are easy but it's those rotors that get me.

 

[jhs914]

Try a sledge hammer instead of dead blow. The sledge will shock the rotor more than the dead blow which softens it.

 

[Rand]

so the rotor is in 2 pieces now?
use a grinder or grinder with cutting disc get some notches on it
could also try a air hammer or sledgehammer use hearing protection.
you dont want to break anything but hit it from all sorts of angles to break up the rustjam holding it on.

 

[Slick3914]

Take a grinder, grind a big notch across the hat, use an air chisel-it’ll crack in half. I’ve also ground the notch, used the biggest chisel I have & bust out the BFH, take out my frustrations… FUN!! The danger of the torch is it can easily ruin the wheel bearing seals!

The wheel bearing is already gone with that amount of beating

 

[bdcardinal]

Do you have an air compressor? Using an air hammer on the hat works.

 

[sky]

so the rotor is in 2 pieces now?
use a grinder or grinder with cutting disc get some notches on it
could also try a air hammer or sledgehammer use hearing protection.
you dont want to break anything but hit it from all sorts of angles to break up the rustjam holding it on.

Yeah - the outer ring (which I can't get off) and then the inner hat, which is still completely stuck on to the hub.

Don't have an air hammer, but I do have a sledge I can try. I also peaked at the other side (passenger front) and it looks similar. I think I might throw the towel in and just take it to the shop. **** it, I have all the OEM parts as well. The caliper bolts and the bracket bolts can't out so easy..

 

[Warstud]

Make sure to grease the hub and inside of new rotor

 

[FowVay]

It's far past the point of utilizing this method but you could have reinstalled the wheel loosely and rocked the vehicle back and forth with the brake applied. There is a small amount of play between the rotor and wheel hub which will allow for movement if the wheel lugs aren't applying full clamping force.

At this point I'd plan on replacing the hub once you get the rotor removed.

 

[atikovi]

I'm more impressed with rotors lasting 100,000 miles. Are these on the rear? On a hybrid or EV?

 

[bullwinkle]

Make sure to grease the hub and inside of new rotor

ANTISEIZE (in reasonable quantities) is your friend, here. I‘m a big fan of Deep Creep, that stuff seems to work itself into rust really well-and a LITTLE heat & time seems to help it get in even more!

 

[bullwinkle]

It's far past the point of utilizing this method but you could have reinstalled the wheel loosely and rocked the vehicle back and forth with the brake applied. There is a small amount of play between the rotor and wheel hub which will allow for movement if the wheel lugs aren't applying full clamping force.

At this point I'd plan on replacing the hub once you get the rotor removed.

I’ve done this the night before-spray the hub & bases of the lug studs, put it all back together, next morning go around the block accelerating fairly hard & stopping quickly, do it a couple times in reverse too-works a lot of the time. Obviously too late for that now!

 

[sky]

I'm more impressed with rotors lasting 100,000 miles. Are these on the rear? On a hybrid or EV?

Front rotors, Lexus RX350. I am just as amazed as you are.

 

[supton]

Note to self: make sure to remove all rotors this fall, clean, and install anti-seize.

I try to rebuild all my brakes once a year, in the spring, if I have time and ambition, I do it in the fall too. Take it all apart, grease all sliding surfaces, put back together. 100k is easy for me to hit on brakes. Granted the rotor makes a vinyl record look pancake flat, but everything comes apart like it should. Good time to pull a bit of brake fluid through too, why worry about a full flush if you are pulling a bit every 6-12 months?

 

[Opelman]

2 sledgehammers. Hold one against the hat and use the other to give it a good whack on the opposite side. Left to right or top to bottom.

 

[MrGraybeard]

Are those little holes in the rotor hat threaded? If so, run a high-strength bolt into one and it will push the hat off of the hub.

If they aren't threaded, I'd be tempted to tap one with a bottoming tap and use the bolt technique.

 

[IndyIan]

I had a stuck rotor as well on my focus, and it was not coming off playing nice with it... I only had to go to a 3lb "sharp blow" hammer and hit hard it a few times and plink, it was loose... You don't have to hit it in the "off" direction either, just hit it any way you can get a good swing.
This is what the shop is going to do anyways, so you might as well try it yourself. Then I guess its the angle grinder but that's a bit tricky not to get into stuff you want to keep...