Dealer Fill 0W20, 9,574 miles, 18 Lexus GS350

[chinee]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Let me try to respond to the comments I can remember off the top of my head...

Not a short tripper, but a garage queen for much of the last 12 months, blame it on the pandemic. Only drove about 4K miles the last 12 months, but usually a 10-15 mile trip each time. Was using the ol' Sequoia as the pandemic-mobile. Did not even realize that I was overdue, time-wise, for an oil change until December and I was just 1K shy of the 10K interval so decided to wait it out.

I will be doing a couple of UOAs prior to the next change by drawing samples from the dipstick tube. Probably at 3K, 6K, 7.5K... depends on how bored I get. I'm not overly concerned about the relatively high wear numbers, chalking it up to the fairly new engine, but a couple of UOAs before the next change will provide additional insight. Also gives me a reason to do more UOAs and indulge this little hobby of mine.

Fumoto valve... didn't know there were other options out there. Been using the fumoto since 2004 on both my vehicles. The fumoto still works as intended on the 02 Sequoia... no complaints. The fumoto does stick out a 1/2" from the oil pan on the Lexus so maybe I'll will look into what else is available out there.

I've been a Pennzoil fan for a number of years now... it has provided really good results in my Sequoia and decent results in my Infiniti. But Valvoline MaxLife 10W30 has been the best for the Sequoia (spec'ed for 5W30). After this fill of 0W20, I was planning on considering 5W30 in the Lexus, depending on the UOAs at 3K, 5K, etc. Also planned on switching my daughter's '17 Civic with the fuel-diluting 1.5T to 5W30 as well. And after all, it is South Florida... no winter down here...!

K&N oil filter... I did buy into the marketing hype a little bit, and did not research at all... it was cheaper, so I bought it. I'll switch back to OEM or another mainstream brand when the time comes around for the next change.

Although I'm not thrilled with the numbers in this UOA, I'm not overly worried either. Like I said, it gives me a reason to perform more UOAs than I normally would.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Let me try to respond to the comments I can remember off the top of my head...

Not a short tripper, but a garage queen for much of the last 12 months, blame it on the pandemic. Only drove about 4K miles the last 12 months, but usually a 10-15 mile trip each time. Was using the ol' Sequoia as the pandemic-mobile. Did not even realize that I was overdue, time-wise, for an oil change until December and I was just 1K shy of the 10K interval so decided to wait it out.

I will be doing a couple of UOAs prior to the next change by drawing samples from the dipstick tube. Probably at 3K, 6K, 7.5K... depends on how bored I get. I'm not overly concerned about the relatively high wear numbers, chalking it up to the fairly new engine, but a couple of UOAs before the next change will provide additional insight. Also gives me a reason to do more UOAs and indulge this little hobby of mine.

Fumoto valve... didn't know there were other options out there. Been using the fumoto since 2004 on both my vehicles. The fumoto still works as intended on the 02 Sequoia... no complaints. The fumoto does stick out a 1/2" from the oil pan on the Lexus so maybe I'll will look into what else is available out there.

I've been a Pennzoil fan for a number of years now... it has provided really good results in my Sequoia and decent results in my Infiniti. But Valvoline MaxLife 10W30 has been the best for the Sequoia (spec'ed for 5W30). After this fill of 0W20, I was planning on considering 5W30 in the Lexus, depending on the UOAs at 3K, 5K, etc. Also planned on switching my daughter's '17 Civic with the fuel-diluting 1.5T to 5W30 as well. And after all, it is South Florida... no winter down here...!

K&N oil filter... I did buy into the marketing hype a little bit, and did not research at all... it was cheaper, so I bought it. I'll switch back to OEM or another mainstream brand when the time comes around for the next change.

Although I'm not thrilled with the numbers in this UOA, I'm not overly worried either. Like I said, it gives me a reason to perform more UOAs than I normally would.

Yes, but warranty.
Can't run past that Maximum 1 year OCI.

NO UOA necessary at this time - or ever.
Let the engine break in.

Just change the Oil on time for Pete's sake!
Put a reminder in Outlook if you are easily distracted

 

[jayjr1105]

I wouldn't panic just yet. Plenty of Toyota UOA's on here that did great with a 20 weight. Anxious to see the next UOA.

 

[deven]

Everybody keeps saying this is the factory fill oil but its not. Its dealer filled oil that the OP has no knowledge as to what they used. To me it looks like it could be TGMO.

 

[SOHCman]

Except that's what the manufacturer recommends.

No, that's what CAFE recommends in reality.

 

[DirectRejection]

I see nothing alarming on this UOA, considering the circumstances. A 5k mile, then a 7.5k mile UOA on the same oil is in order. Then assess.

 

[allepunta]

Except that's what the manufacturer recommends.

10W-30? Is it 1989? No manufacturer recommends 10W-30 anymore, 5W-30 would be the better substitute.

Well in 2012 my euro accord ( acura tsx) perbook I can use anything from 0w30 to 10w30 in a3b4 or a5b5

 

[allepunta]

Why was the oil in for two years I'm sure toyota/lexux recommends 1 year MAX oil change interval?
But that is not the issue this is break in oil it should have been out by around 5K miles +/-.

And light 30 grade may do well in there but with DEXOS good luck finding a thin one. Plus I dont know the VVTi porgramming may no tolerate a near 50% increase in KV100.

Maybe a quality 5W20 would be a good compromise. they tend to be knocking on the door of a 30 vs. a 0W20 which is about 10 cst thinner at KV40.
- Ken

Petro canada supreme synthetic has dexos approval I believe

 

[wpod]

10W-30? Is it 1989? No manufacturer recommends 10W-30 anymore, 5W-30 would be the better substitute.

Why would 5W-30 be better ?

 

[jayjr1105]

Why would 5W-30 be better ?

Lower the first number, the better the base oil is I think? 2nd number is far more important unless you live in the arctic.

 

[john_pifer]

Lower the first number, the better the base oil is I think? 2nd number is far more important unless you live in the arctic.

The first number (the winter rating) being lower does not automatically equate to a better base oil, no.

In fact, a lower winter rating frequently, if not always, means a lower-viscosity base oil thats propped up with viscosity modifiers to get the oil to meet its hot viscosity (the 2nd #) rating.

Bad part about that is, viscosity modifiers are made of polymer, and can mean more deposits in hot spots (piston rings and lands, for example).

Also, those VMs shear down over your oil change interval, reducing viscosity, which is your main protection against metal on metal contact inside your engine.

In my opinion, oils with thicker base oil and lower amounts of VM are superior.

 

[RhondaHonda]

Skip the UOAs and just change the oil at 3-5k a few times. Oil is so cheap it’s not worth analyzing a new engine.

 

[chinee]

Skip the UOAs and just change the oil at 3-5k a few times. Oil is so cheap it’s not worth analyzing a new engine.

Agreed... just satisfying my curiosity.

 

[wpod]

Lower the first number, the better the base oil is I think? 2nd number is far more important unless you live in the arctic.

What if both oils meet the same specs?

 

[stchman]

Why would 5W-30 be better ?

I'm not a chemical engineer so I don't know, the manufacturer who makes the vehicle employs such people that have done far more research on this than you or I. I will defer to the expertise of the people who designed and built the car. I'm certain that if someone has a problem with their car they aren't going to be able to use "someone on BITOG said it was better" so I just did it.

With this being said is 10W-30 superior to 5W-30, I don't know. The people that designed and built my vehicle have said to use a certain viscosity that meets the spec. For GM cars they require DEXOS certified oils, 10W-30 is not DEXOS certified.

I do firmly believe that if the owner of a car uses the proper oil and filter and does oil and filter changes specified by the manufacturer, the odds of a lubrication related problem are VERY slim.

 

[stchman]

I stated above why Toyota suggests 0W-20.

Most of their vehicles’ owners manuals also include a line that allows the use of a thicker grade under more serious use.

I like 10W-30 oils because they typically have lower amounts of viscosity-modifying polymers than their 5W-30 counterparts, and that means a cleaner engine, as well as less shear - it’ll stay in grade better.

AND almost always have better Noack scores.

And the difference in viscosity is very often negligible until you get down to some pretty cold temps, which the OP won’t often see down in Florida.

If you’re ignoring 10W-30s because 5W-30s are more popular these days, or, you think “they’re from 1989”, you’re doing yourself and your vehicle a disservice, in my opinion.

No offense, but you "liking" a particular viscosity has zero bearing on what the engine needs to perform properly. People's feelings are irrelevant when it comes to these matters.

 

[john_pifer]

No offense, but you "liking" a particular viscosity has zero bearing on what the engine needs to perform properly. People's feelings are irrelevant when it comes to these matters.

Semantics.

I think it was pretty clear what I meant when I said I liked 10W-30 viscosity.

But, for anyone who didn’t understand:

I appreciate the benefits that a good 10W-30 can provide, including:

• Lower amounts of viscosity-modifying polymer additives than their 5W-30 counterparts

• Thicker base oil, resulting in better Noack score

• Superior ability to maintain viscosity when compared with 5W-30, due to deriving viscosity value from base oil rather than relying on VM for viscosity

All of this can result in a cleaner engine and less long-term wear.

Also, in a TGDI engine, it can result in a cleaner intake tract, and fewer turbocharger deposits.

Thanks for giving me the opportunity to clarify.

 

[PWMDMD]

That looks like a lot of wear for a Toyota,which always have zero to single digit wear metals. I wonder if a W30 and a shorter oci would lower the metals? I'd think the engine should be well broken in at almost 20K,but I may be completely wrong on all counts.

Even though there are 20K miles on the engine the oil had only been changed once at 10k miles before this sample was taken during the second oil change - still lots of wear-in metals in there. I do 5K mile OCI until 20K miles on my Toyota engines then go to a 10K mile OCI and then use 30K miles as the absolute minimum to get a baseline - but the oil has already been changed 4x by then.

 

[chinee]

Even though there are 20K miles on the engine the oil had only been changed once at 10k miles before this sample was taken during the second oil change - still lots of wear-in metals in there. I do 5K mile OCI until 20K miles on my Toyota engines then go to a 10K mile OCI and then use 30K miles as the absolute minimum to get a baseline - but the oil has already been changed 4x by then.

With this being just the 2nd oil change, that's how I'm looking at it as well. I believe that with sampling done at intervals before the next OCI, I'll have a much better idea of how this engine will work with the PP 0W20. Considering going to 0W30 or 5W30, also considering Valvoline since I've had such good experiences with it in the Sequoia. Time will tell...

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

I think UOA's are interesting but nearly useless in most passenger car/SUV/light truck applications. The wear metals are really not bad at all, the copper might be a tad high but the iron is nothing to be concerned about as stated this is still some break-in going on. As PT said, I would worry more about the silicon and maybe the air filtration being a bit loosey goosey. I'd stick to a quality 0W-20 but cap it at a year OCI...