dealer does not recomend going to synthetic

[pdxglocker9mm]

Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta

Whatever oil you pick, get it analyzed every oil change. That is very important and a step that should not be skipped. The analysis will tell you what is going on in your engine. My $.02.


This cracks me up.
I do 3000-4000 mile oil changes I spend about $15 or less
for a oil change. 4 qts oil, new drain plug gasket, and oil filter.
I am not going to spend $28 to get my oil analyzed. I pay attention to my fluid levels
and keep up on my services.
I will use my dollars to keep other things serviced, transmission, radiator, brakes, power steering.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

It just kills me that places will offer synthetic blend oil changes and then tell you if you go full synth, you can never go back.
If the synth and dino oil are not compatible, how the [censored] can they use a mix of the two?!?!?!

 

[CKN]

Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
OP - as many have already stated, the dealer is wrong. I would take the 4 free changes with their bulk oil. After that, go with any Dexos rated oil. I like synthetics and have run them in all my vehicles for years. I also use blends - Maxlife - in my high mileage vehicles. The two Fords listed in my sig have had dino, blended and syn in them since I owned them with no issues.

I had a Tahoe with the 5.3L. I ran Amsoil, Mobil 1, Red Line and Royal Purple (only ran it once). I ran Amsoil the most in the engine and exclusively in the trans and rear. When I sold it she had 188,xxx on the clock and was tight as a drum. No leaks or drips on the ground. Pulled a travel trailer, had a chip in it, CAI and cat back. She was a good vehicle.

Whatever oil you pick, get it analyzed every oil change. That is very important and a step that should not be skipped. The analysis will tell you what is going on in your engine. My $.02.


Typical BITOG over maintenance and/or paranoia.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: CKN
.Typical BITOG over maintenance and/or paranoia.

Its too much hassle or cost for most of us, true.
Wish we all had BMW's electronic sensor in the sump that tells your dashboard if anti-freeze coolant is invading or if the oil is simply worn out, really slick.

 

[Ram01]

BMW have a nice oil sensor

 

[Mrsandman]

Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Synthetics are highly overrated. Most of our dino oil is partially group 3 synthetic anyway. Only benefit to synthetic is the ability to extend the OCI further. I don't think it even outperforms as far as deposit cleaning goes these days anymore. I guess you can say it flows thinner when its cold and thicker it when its hot then conventional but not so much better that it's going to actually extend the life of your motor.
So unless you're looking to greatly extend your OCI I say save money and throw in some conventional




There isn't any conventional oil with a "Dexos" rating.

Yeah well he can save money with the semi synthetics until his warranty is up and then use a good dino like qsgb or pyb or vwb or, well just about any sn conventional oil these days actually.
Theres nothing so special about dexos approval.

 

[CKN]

Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Mrsandman
Synthetics are highly overrated. Most of our dino oil is partially group 3 synthetic anyway. Only benefit to synthetic is the ability to extend the OCI further. I don't think it even outperforms as far as deposit cleaning goes these days anymore. I guess you can say it flows thinner when its cold and thicker it when its hot then conventional but not so much better that it's going to actually extend the life of your motor.
So unless you're looking to greatly extend your OCI I say save money and throw in some conventional




There isn't any conventional oil with a "Dexos" rating.

Yeah well he can save money with the semi synthetics until his warranty is up and then use a good dino like qsgb or pyb or vwb or, well just about any sn conventional oil these days actually.
Theres nothing so special about dexos approval.


Well-look at the Chart (scroll down)There is in certain areas.
https://www.syntheticmotoroilstoday.com/tech-talk/north-american-gasoline-motor-oil-specifications/

 

[TiredTrucker]

Originally Posted By: pdxglocker9mm


This cracks me up.
I do 3000-4000 mile oil changes I spend about $15 or less
for a oil change. 4 qts oil, new drain plug gasket, and oil filter.
I am not going to spend $28 to get my oil analyzed. I pay attention to my fluid levels
and keep up on my services.
I will use my dollars to keep other things serviced, transmission, radiator, brakes, power steering.


Even if it meant catching a coolant leak early before you're entire motor took a dump? Oil analysis is not just for the oil. Excessive wear metals that could suggest bearings starting to fail, a high level of silicon that could show that there is a air intake problem and dirty air is getting past the filter somewhere, coolant in the oil suggesting a head gasket leak or oil cooler failure, etc. Any of which if caught early are substantially cheaper to repair than replacing an entire motor. While you might get an oil sample done for $28, I can get oil sample kits and analysis done from my Schaeffer Oil rep for about $10 a pop, including free postage. And that is with buying them ala carte. I get free kits and analysis with my oil orders, but I order oil and grease in bulk. But even if it did cost me $28, that is less than most folks blow on a Saturday evening on worthless nonsense, and that $28 is only going to be a hit a few times a year at most. Got to love folk's logic in how they make their choices in life, and how they will balk at a few bucks to do something realistic as if they are having to take out a second mortgage to do it.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: aimatdeer
Hello everyone, wondered what you guys thought. I have a 2014 chevy silverado with a 5.3. Factory fill is dexos blend and first four oil changes are free. Called my service department and asked if i paid an upcharge could i go to mobil 1 full synthetic. He really seemed to want me to stay with the dexos. Did not recomend going full synthetic and warned me once i do switch i can't go back. What do you guys think?


I agree with the dealer on the point to pick an oil stick with it. No need to keep changing brands.

If the oil is OEM approved and designed for it what else does the engine NEED as its operating requirements have not changed.

I think regular OCIs and FULL vehicle maintenance DONE PROPERLY IS more important than FULL syn oil.

 

[TiredTrucker]

I thought there were several Mobil 1 synthetics that meet the dexos1 standard. It is the factory fill for some high end GM vehicles. I have heard a lot of dealers even stock it for regular vehicle customer demand. Really confusing why a dealer would not want to make a couple of bucks on the up charge. Some things in life, and business, are goofy. But we all know where the dealer head is at (up their rear end) when they make some goofy statement like "once you switch to synthetic you can't go back". This is one of many reasons I never go to a dealer unless there is a warranty issue. My last three vehicles have never been to the dealership after I purchased them new. My latest one will be making a trip to the dealer soon because of a minor recall item, but that is the only reason.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Oil analysis is not just for the oil. Excessive wear metals that could suggest bearings starting to fail, a high level of silicon ........................ to do something realistic as if they are having to take out a second mortgage to do it.


Oil analysis is done by the OEM so purchasers dont need to do it if a proper maintenance regime is followed.

If you do not trust the OEM don't buy the vehicle.

 

[wemay]

As long as the oil meets the required specifications, you can use whatever you want (conv, blend, syn), switch however many times you'd like between them and use a different brand each OCI.

As with any obsession (i mean hobby

), overthinking the possibilities, however negligible, is a prerequisite.

 

[pdxglocker9mm]

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Originally Posted By: pdxglocker9mm


This cracks me up.
I do 3000-4000 mile oil changes I spend about $15 or less
for a oil change. 4 qts oil, new drain plug gasket, and oil filter.
I am not going to spend $28 to get my oil analyzed. I pay attention to my fluid levels
and keep up on my services.
I will use my dollars to keep other things serviced, transmission, radiator, brakes, power steering.


Even if it meant catching a coolant leak early before you're entire motor took a dump? Oil analysis is not just for the oil. Excessive wear metals that could suggest bearings starting to fail, a high level of silicon that could show that there is a air intake problem and dirty air is getting past the filter somewhere, coolant in the oil suggesting a head gasket leak or oil cooler failure, etc. Any of which if caught early are substantially cheaper to repair than replacing an entire motor. While you might get an oil sample done for $28, I can get oil sample kits and analysis done from my Schaeffer Oil rep for about $10 a pop, including free postage. And that is with buying them ala carte. I get free kits and analysis with my oil orders, but I order oil and grease in bulk. But even if it did cost me $28, that is less than most folks blow on a Saturday evening on worthless nonsense, and that $28 is only going to be a hit a few times a year at most. Got to love folk's logic in how they make their choices in life, and how they will balk at a few bucks to do something realistic as if they are having to take out a second mortgage to do it.


I wash the engine very regularly, simple green or 409 after an oil change while the engine is still warm. I then let it air dry for about an hour. The engine is VERY clean which makes it easy to identify any leaks easily. I am very familiar with my "NORMAL" fluid levels. If the coolant is low it had to go somewhere so if I could not find a external leak I might consider a $10 oil analysis. As for un metered air entering thru unknown intake leaks. Many modern vehicles are very sensitive to this and set codes due to the computer maxing out fuel trims. There are also methods of checking for intake leaks if someone is worried about it. As for bearings yes they are obviously important
but if they were to go out a reman short block or long block would be in my near future as this would likely be the fastest and cheapest repair option.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Even if it meant catching a coolant leak early before you're entire motor took a dump? Oil analysis is not just for the oil. Excessive wear metals that could suggest bearings starting to fail, a high level of silicon that could show that there is a air intake problem and dirty air is getting past the filter somewhere, coolant in the oil suggesting a head gasket leak or oil cooler failure, etc. Any of which if caught early are substantially cheaper to repair than replacing an entire motor.

UOAs are also exceedingly useful for creating threads on BITOG filled with baseless speculation about changing oil brands and whether or not an engine is in imminent need of a rebuild or the motorist should just carry on doing what he's doing. A UOA ever OCI on a vehicle where the OLM is being followed with an approved lube is really not necessary, as was originally suggested. It was suggested as necessary, not fun, or informative, or anything else.

 

[MCompact]

I perform regular UOAs on just a couple of my cars(MS3 and X3) because I intend to keep them for at least 8-10 years. In the case of the X3, UOAs showed the manufacturer's OCI to be extremely optimistic, while the opposite was true in the case of the MS3.