Hello everyone, wondered what you guys thought. I have a 2014 chevy silverado with a 5.3. Factory fill is dexos blend and first four oil changes are free. Called my service department and asked if i paid an upcharge could i go to mobil 1 full synthetic. He really seemed to want me to stay with the dexos. Did not recomend going full synthetic and warned me once i do switch i can't go back. What do you guys think?
dealer does not recomend going to synthetic
- Thread starter aimatdeer
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He's wrong. You can get full syn Dexos and you can switch back and forth between dino and syn without doing any harm. That being said, there is probably nothing wrong with the blend that they are using.
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Bigger profit margin on his bulk oil???
Yeah he is wrong. Use what you want and switch as you like. Another option is to see if they give you the oil and filters up front..and do the changes yourself.
Dealer here did no know the correct amount of oil my vehicle took. Friend has a 2015 Grand Cherokee and had the same experience.
I had a GM vehicle with the 5.3 liter engine in it and used nothing but synthetic oil from the very first oil change onward.
I had a GM vehicle with the 5.3 liter engine in it and used nothing but synthetic oil from the very first oil change onward.
Dealer is set up to shoot through their bulk oil. This is the classic merchant vendor case of selling you what's best for the business, not what's best for you. Capitalism 101.
Your dealer is somewhat honest...
Many would go ahead and charge you extra for the M1 then just put the bulk Dexos in anyway.
Many would go ahead and charge you extra for the M1 then just put the bulk Dexos in anyway.
It's correct to say the bulk oil is cheaper. One of our customers said it costs the Ford dealer he worked for about $1 per quart for conventional.
The dealer is wrong you can switch between synthetic/conventional. You can even mix it if you want.
The dealer is wrong you can switch between synthetic/conventional. You can even mix it if you want.
I would be looking for a new service department.
If they are that highly uneducated on the basics of motor oil, can you imagine what other critical knowledge they are lacking on items that are actually complex within your vehicle.
It's time to demand more for what we are paying these guys!
If they are that highly uneducated on the basics of motor oil, can you imagine what other critical knowledge they are lacking on items that are actually complex within your vehicle.
It's time to demand more for what we are paying these guys!
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You'll find the majority of folks in the car repair business do not know a thing about oil. Once someone goes to synthetic, you cant go back is just a plain ridiculous statement. I have also heard this causes premature wear on your bearings.
My testimonial: My dad has a 30 year old 4.0 Jeep truck that saw a synthetic diet for its first time about 6 years ago. These engines are notorious for leaking and the synthetic didnt increase that one bit. The RMS leaked when it was on a conventional diet too. The truck currently has PYB it leaks just as bad as it did before. The slave cylinder died on me a last weekend, but that's a story for another day.
My testimonial: My dad has a 30 year old 4.0 Jeep truck that saw a synthetic diet for its first time about 6 years ago. These engines are notorious for leaking and the synthetic didnt increase that one bit. The RMS leaked when it was on a conventional diet too. The truck currently has PYB it leaks just as bad as it did before. The slave cylinder died on me a last weekend, but that's a story for another day.
Since when do any modern service writer know anything about oil or cars?
Also - M1 5w30 GF5 is not synthetic and there are no "conventional" ILSAC oils. So swicth back and forth between a glorified perto oil and a semi-glorified petro oil.
And what make you think most grpIII "synthetic' gives you less "wear"?
Many times its the opposite - its a compromise for fluidity and oxidation resistance at temp extremes vs lubricity and resolution of small motions at typical sump operating temps.
Also - M1 5w30 GF5 is not synthetic and there are no "conventional" ILSAC oils. So swicth back and forth between a glorified perto oil and a semi-glorified petro oil.
And what make you think most grpIII "synthetic' gives you less "wear"?
Many times its the opposite - its a compromise for fluidity and oxidation resistance at temp extremes vs lubricity and resolution of small motions at typical sump operating temps.
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I don't think it's evil. I think its a typical blow off move because they get asked the same questions time and time again and to change up what they are doing is a hassle and thus they throw a negative your way.
Plus being in business can bore you crazy. They are in business and not a hobbyist looking to jerk off on the latest new elixir on the market. They throw oil down the pipe and go home sad about their disgusting existence.
Plus being in business can bore you crazy. They are in business and not a hobbyist looking to jerk off on the latest new elixir on the market. They throw oil down the pipe and go home sad about their disgusting existence.
Just run what they sell as bulk. Its good oil and there is no questioning warranty if there is any issues. I always change my own oil. I feel they charge you for synthetic and put in bulk oil.
Originally Posted By: aimatdeer
My truck takes 8 quarts of 0w20.
8 quart sump on the 5.3 that specs 0w20? When did this happen? That is one way to get extended OCI's without much change to the engine I guess.
If your truck does indeed spec 0w20, how can they say synthetic oil is the wrong choice. 0w20 is synthetic! (I want to say there are some hard to find 0w20 blends out there that I am sure the phantom fighters of BITOG will bring up, but that is besides the point.)
My truck takes 8 quarts of 0w20.
8 quart sump on the 5.3 that specs 0w20? When did this happen? That is one way to get extended OCI's without much change to the engine I guess.
If your truck does indeed spec 0w20, how can they say synthetic oil is the wrong choice. 0w20 is synthetic! (I want to say there are some hard to find 0w20 blends out there that I am sure the phantom fighters of BITOG will bring up, but that is besides the point.)
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: aimatdeer
My truck takes 8 quarts of 0w20.
8 quart sump on the 5.3 that specs 0w20? When did this happen? That is one way to get extended OCI's without much change to the engine I guess.
If your truck does indeed spec 0w20, how can they say synthetic oil is the wrong choice. 0w20 is synthetic! (I want to say there are some hard to find 0w20 blends out there that I am sure the phantom fighters of BITOG will bring up, but that is besides the point.)
The new 2014+ 5.3 was redesigned and included a larger oil capacity.
Originally Posted By: aimatdeer
My truck takes 8 quarts of 0w20.
8 quart sump on the 5.3 that specs 0w20? When did this happen? That is one way to get extended OCI's without much change to the engine I guess.
If your truck does indeed spec 0w20, how can they say synthetic oil is the wrong choice. 0w20 is synthetic! (I want to say there are some hard to find 0w20 blends out there that I am sure the phantom fighters of BITOG will bring up, but that is besides the point.)
The new 2014+ 5.3 was redesigned and included a larger oil capacity.
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