Go visit Toyotanation. I understand that they are experts on this subject matter.
De-Sludge Procedures
- Thread starter GR_CoB
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I know this is the boring, unpopular answer, but why not just change the oil and leave it the heck alone?
Jetronic once said how clean diesel engines are inside in comparison with gasoline counterparts... Everything due to SMALL diesel content in its oil wich is constantly present...
I said SMALL!!!
If I would like to desludge my engine...I would buy bulk of cheapest HDEO oil...and would do 3-4 short OCIS (2000-3000kms)...
And just before every OCI I would add aprox 1dcl of diesel oil and I would go on one short trip before OCI...
I said SMALL!!!
If I would like to desludge my engine...I would buy bulk of cheapest HDEO oil...and would do 3-4 short OCIS (2000-3000kms)...
And just before every OCI I would add aprox 1dcl of diesel oil and I would go on one short trip before OCI...
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I am not using diesel or kerosine. Mainly because there is a video (in Russian) of a guy who tests oil lubricating properties with one arm bandit. He heats up the oil before every test to get it as close to operating conditions as possible.
He puts the friction/pressure load on the oil. Straight oil, depending on the brand, was taking 7-15 KGs of load before the bearing wheel stopped. Once he mixed the oil with diesel or kerosine - the friction was so bad that the wheel stopped at 1-3KGs of load! There is no way I am mixing diesel with oil. MMO is not kerosine or ATF, as some here suggest. So MMO will have a chance of working in that engine shortly before next oil change. The vehicle is 2012 Toyota Corolla with 60k miles.
He puts the friction/pressure load on the oil. Straight oil, depending on the brand, was taking 7-15 KGs of load before the bearing wheel stopped. Once he mixed the oil with diesel or kerosine - the friction was so bad that the wheel stopped at 1-3KGs of load! There is no way I am mixing diesel with oil. MMO is not kerosine or ATF, as some here suggest. So MMO will have a chance of working in that engine shortly before next oil change. The vehicle is 2012 Toyota Corolla with 60k miles.
Btw, compression is in spec on all 4 pots. Coolant is super green. I guess it was changed from the original Red/Pink at some point.
Use a cheap synthetic like Napa on sale and change it and filter at 3k or 4k.
Pull valve cover to validate it really has a sludge issue.
Pull valve cover to validate it really has a sludge issue.
A trucker pal with a big expensive truck always used Kerosene dumped into the crank case and idling the engine for 3o minutes
then doing the oil filter change. workers great.
For a car engine that's dirty, add 1 1/2 cups of camping kerosene in with the OLD oil and run at a fast idle
for 20 minutes, then do a long drain so it all comes out, new filter, new oil and you're good.
Then maintain your OCI and keep your oil topped up and you won't have to do a flush for yrs to come!
Commercial engine oil flushes have Kero in them too, it's an astringent so don't do it every OCI, seals will dry out,
but once every couple of yrs is OK. I did mine 5 years ago and with proper attention no need for years to come!
then doing the oil filter change. workers great.
For a car engine that's dirty, add 1 1/2 cups of camping kerosene in with the OLD oil and run at a fast idle
for 20 minutes, then do a long drain so it all comes out, new filter, new oil and you're good.
Then maintain your OCI and keep your oil topped up and you won't have to do a flush for yrs to come!
Commercial engine oil flushes have Kero in them too, it's an astringent so don't do it every OCI, seals will dry out,
but once every couple of yrs is OK. I did mine 5 years ago and with proper attention no need for years to come!
Just go to auto-rx.com and follow instructions.
Skip the full sump of ATF.. in fact skip the ATF in your oil completely. If you must do something, then do as others have suggested - Run an OCI or two using Rotella 10w30.
Better yet, depending on the oil that the engine specs, use the Rotella 10w30, but replace 1/5 to 1/4 of the oil with MMO. You mentioned red/pink coolant, so I'm going to assume that this is an asian car, and thus would most likely spec an oil lighter than 10w30.. and so the MMO will lighten up the oil, and might help a little in clean-up.
.. In all honesty, though, the Rotella will do some good cleaning by itself. Way better than any ATF could.
Better yet, depending on the oil that the engine specs, use the Rotella 10w30, but replace 1/5 to 1/4 of the oil with MMO. You mentioned red/pink coolant, so I'm going to assume that this is an asian car, and thus would most likely spec an oil lighter than 10w30.. and so the MMO will lighten up the oil, and might help a little in clean-up.
.. In all honesty, though, the Rotella will do some good cleaning by itself. Way better than any ATF could.
Personally, I would just do a couple short OCI with whatever oil you plan on using.
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Originally Posted By: beanoil
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729268
From Quaker State;
" Myth #12
Adding a quart of ATF the day before an oil change will clean your engine. ATF added to the motor oil will clean the engine due to the high levels of detergent in ATF.
Fact
ATF does not contain detergent chemistry. ATF does contain dispersants, which have properties similar to detergents. But ATF is not formulated to withstand the combustion environment inside the engine. Quaker State® recommends that you keep the fluids where they belong: motor oil in the crankcase, and automatic transmission fluid in the transmission. "
There we go--straight from one of the majors. OP use a product designed for the issue at hand and skip the shade tree solutions.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729268
From Quaker State;
" Myth #12
Adding a quart of ATF the day before an oil change will clean your engine. ATF added to the motor oil will clean the engine due to the high levels of detergent in ATF.
Fact
ATF does not contain detergent chemistry. ATF does contain dispersants, which have properties similar to detergents. But ATF is not formulated to withstand the combustion environment inside the engine. Quaker State® recommends that you keep the fluids where they belong: motor oil in the crankcase, and automatic transmission fluid in the transmission. "
There we go--straight from one of the majors. OP use a product designed for the issue at hand and skip the shade tree solutions.
as other have said, just change the oil on a regular but short OCI and let the detergents work
you could try a high tbn/detergent like this: (there are others as mentioned above)
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...rine-motor-oil/
you could try a high tbn/detergent like this: (there are others as mentioned above)
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...rine-motor-oil/
I read somewhere that the ingredient which gave ATF its lauded cleansing super power is no longer included and hasn't been for decades.
...but I do not know.
Nobody ever mentions poking a cheap fiber optic scope into the valve cover or drain hole for a better look.
...but I do not know.
Nobody ever mentions poking a cheap fiber optic scope into the valve cover or drain hole for a better look.
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I'd just change the oil with your fave oil/filter combo and rock on!
Years ago I read a post where a shop drained the oil, re-filled with entire engine with Kerosene and let it sit for 1-2 days. They then drained and ran a couple of short ocis with diesel rated oil.
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Did they do that warm or cold?
Originally Posted By: Kira
Did they do that warm or cold?
cold but probably doesn't matter because the engine isn't going to be running. I would do it warm.
Did they do that warm or cold?
cold but probably doesn't matter because the engine isn't going to be running. I would do it warm.
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