Tiny bubbles

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15
Brother just gave me a 2001 Volvo with a turbo and 99,000 miles. I don't know when the last oil change was done. Before I changed the oil I added 5 oz of Seafoam to crankcase and ran the engine until warmed up. Couldn't get the drain plug loose (going back with1/2" drive) but did look at the dipstick. It was covered in bubbles about 1/64" in size. The oil shows no condensation sludge. After I added the Seafoam the occasional lifter tick went away and the engine ran smoothly and quietly. What could cause those bubbles? Was going to put in high mileage Mobile 1 and new filter.
 
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Gandolf: Do you know the car at all? By this I mean, have you any familiarity with the care and feeding of one of these P2 cars?

New to them or not let me say, congrats! They are great cars. You want 18mm aluminum washers to serve as drain plug gaskets for both oil and transmission. You're due for a timing belt change if your bro hasn't done it yet.

The "stop-neutral" function was such a stupid idea Volvo summarily removed it from these cars. Make CERTAIN it's gone from yours.
Does it shift OK?
 

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
Gandolf: Do you know the car at all? By this I mean, have you any familiarity with the care and feeding of one of these P2 cars?

New to them or not let me say, congrats! They are great cars. You want 18mm aluminum washers to serve as drain plug gaskets for both oil and transmission. You're due for a timing belt change if your bro hasn't done it yet.

The "stop-neutral" function was such a stupid idea Volvo summarily removed it from these cars. Make CERTAIN it's gone from yours.
Does it shift OK?

Thank you for your response. My sister-in-law bought the car new in 2001. It was garaged until October of last year when my brother-in-law was getting all kinds of codes the worst thrown by the catalytic converter. Lack of maintenance is probably the reason. The paint and exterior are in wonderful shape. The interior not so much. Before I changed the plugs and air filter there was the check engine light on and the maintenance light on. The check engine light is off now. The air cleaner was so bad you couldn't see light through it even after I removed the closed cell foam. I pulled the spark plugs and put in new NGK Platinum. The center electrodes were worn down to the porcelain. The oil and antifreeze were so black you couldn't see through them. Going to replace the oil and flush the cooling system. The engine runs well now without it being so rich causing the cat too throw codes. Haven't had a chance to drive the car. It needs new tires. Don't know about the stop-neutral function.
 

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
One cause is operating crankshaft hitting the oil causing aeration.
Usually due to oil overfill, high oil level could also be caused by fuel in the oil, raising the oil level.
Thank you Danno the oil is half a quart down.
 

Astro14

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Gandolf - first - Welcome to BITOG!

Next, I'm moving this thread to passenger car motor oil, since it's really about oil, and not a site sponsor question.

Finally, I own three of these. Including a 2001.

The P2 chassis Volvo is a great car with a couple of weak spots: PCV system, control arm bushings, and, in 2001, transmission valve body.

Kira's question about the stop-neutral is a good one. Dumb idea, increases wear, should have been removed during a dealer software update in the last couple decades...

For oil, use a good ACEA A3/B4. I've had excellent results with Mobil 1 0W40, Pennzoil Euro 5W40, and Castrol 0W40. All good choices. UOAs posted on BITOG over the years. The Euro spec is more important than the viscosity. You're looking for a long drain interval oil.

Flame Trap: this is the PCV system. At your car's age, with unknown mileage and service history, it's a good bet that system needs complete replacement. Neglecting to do so, or trying to cheap out by only replacing some parts, will result in a camshaft seal failure from increased crankcase pressure, and that requires a complete timing belt job along with the PCV system.

Timing belt: do this on age alone. Buy the complete set, including tensioner and idler pulley.

IF it shifts OK, then consider yourself lucky. It may have had the valve body (control unit) replaced a while back. Volvo did a recall on this years ago. If not, then a control unit (Volvo speak for a valve body) early will prevent the damage to internal parts. I retrofitted a new valve body to the 2001 - it was a GM part for a Saturn, but new production. Required a solenoid and some wiring work. On the other two, I had the existing valve body rebuilt. My wife's XC has the highest mileage, about 260,000, on the original transmission, with the rebuilt body. Good transmission if you get the valve body sorted out.

Changing the transmission fluid (all of it, using a cooler line flush) is a good idea. Use a Toyota T-IV (JWS-3309) fluid. Your choice, but the Toyota dealer gives me a break on a case price and you really don't need miracle fluid, just new fluid.

I've retrofitted an oil cooler with thermostat and external filter on my cars. Note that the factory filter on the AW-55 is internal, not accessible, and can only be replaced by removing the transmission and splitting the case open.

Details on all the above if you're interested.

In the meantime, here are some resources:

Transmission flush discussion and some pictures of the cooler, thermostat and filter installation: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

Valve body "how to": https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf

IPD kit for transmission flush: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/107945-volvo-automatic-transmission-flush-hose-kit-ipd-107945

IPD kit for PCV System replacement: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/498...0-s60-s70-v70-xc70-turbo-genuine-volvo-114177

IPD kit for Timing belt: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/516...nsioner-and-idler-bearing-oes-112855-30758261

Cheers,
Astro
 

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
Gandolf - first - Welcome to BITOG!

Next, I'm moving this thread to passenger car motor oil, since it's really about oil, and not a site sponsor question.

Finally, I own three of these. Including a 2001.

The P2 chassis Volvo is a great car with a couple of weak spots: PCV system, control arm bushings, and, in 2001, transmission valve body.

Kira's question about the stop-neutral is a good one. Dumb idea, increases wear, should have been removed during a dealer software update in the last couple decades...

For oil, use a good ACEA A3/B4. I've had excellent results with Mobil 1 0W40, Pennzoil Euro 5W40, and Castrol 0W40. All good choices. UOAs posted on BITOG over the years. The Euro spec is more important than the viscosity. You're looking for a long drain interval oil.

Flame Trap: this is the PCV system. At your car's age, with unknown mileage and service history, it's a good bet that system needs complete replacement. Neglecting to do so, or trying to cheap out by only replacing some parts, will result in a camshaft seal failure from increased crankcase pressure, and that requires a complete timing belt job along with the PCV system.

Timing belt: do this on age alone. Buy the complete set, including tensioner and idler pulley.

IF it shifts OK, then consider yourself lucky. It may have had the valve body (control unit) replaced a while back. Volvo did a recall on this years ago. If not, then a control unit (Volvo speak for a valve body) early will prevent the damage to internal parts. I retrofitted a new valve body to the 2001 - it was a GM part for a Saturn, but new production. Required a solenoid and some wiring work. On the other two, I had the existing valve body rebuilt. My wife's XC has the highest mileage, about 260,000, on the original transmission, with the rebuilt body. Good transmission if you get the valve body sorted out.

Changing the transmission fluid (all of it, using a cooler line flush) is a good idea. Use a Toyota T-IV (JWS-3309) fluid. Your choice, but the Toyota dealer gives me a break on a case price and you really don't need miracle fluid, just new fluid.

I've retrofitted an oil cooler with thermostat and external filter on my cars. Note that the factory filter on the AW-55 is internal, not accessible, and can only be replaced by removing the transmission and splitting the case open.

Details on all the above if you're interested.

In the meantime, here are some resources:

Transmission flush discussion and some pictures of the cooler, thermostat and filter installation: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?27334-02-XC70-Transmission-Flush-From-Bottom

Valve body "how to": https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf

IPD kit for transmission flush: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/107945-volvo-automatic-transmission-flush-hose-kit-ipd-107945

IPD kit for PCV System replacement: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/498...0-s60-s70-v70-xc70-turbo-genuine-volvo-114177

IPD kit for Timing belt: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/516...nsioner-and-idler-bearing-oes-112855-30758261

Cheers,
Astro
Thanks Astro. I think the PVC system is original. That is scary just the thought of that job. I was going to use Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 10-30 oil. I have a local transmission place who can do the job very reasonably. I'll talk to him. Yes I know about the timing belt, so many years or 105,000 miles whichever comes first. 20 year qualifies a change now. How much of a job is it to replace? I'll take everything in stride after I get the car on the road. One thing at a time. I do need to program my fobs. I understand the programming can be done by a locksmith.
 

Astro14

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Been in my shop. No cell phone, so no internet... which is great, at times.

Anyway, the timing belt was a six hour job first time. I’ve got it down to about two hours now.

You will need a crank holder to get the crank pulley off. Some guys claim they can thread the belt with the pulley in place. I can’t. You can fabricate one, or you can buy this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...FUKDmFW1qk9xe7yiyrXPmi8GK3PjaJVxoCg5QQAvD_BwE

You’ll need a typical set of metric tools, including a 30mm socket for the crank bolt, and a good torque wrench.

Pay close attention to the tensioner setting, it’s temperature dependent.

When you’ve got the new belt, idler, and tensioner in place, crank the engine over twice. 720 degrees at the crank, which is 360 at the cams. Double check your timing marks. Then check them again.

Lots of folks struggle with the timing marks on this, they’re hard to see, and wonder why their cars run like garbage after a new timing belt goes in.

It’s off a tooth. That’s why it runs poorly. And the above check would’ve caught that.
 
Last edited:

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
Been in my shop. No cell phone, so no internet... which is great, at times.

Anyway, the timing belt was a six hour job first time. I’ve got it down to about two hours now.

You will need a crank holder to get the crank pulley off. Some guys claim they can thread the belt with the pulley in place. I can’t. You can fabricate one, or you can buy this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...FUKDmFW1qk9xe7yiyrXPmi8GK3PjaJVxoCg5QQAvD_BwE

You’ll need a typical set of metric tools, including a 30mm socket for the crank bolt, and a good torque wrench.

Pay close attention to the tensioner setting, it’s temperature dependent.

When you’ve got the new belt, idler, and tensioner in place, crank the engine over twice. 720 degrees at the crank, which is 360 at the cams. Double check your timing marks. Then check them again.

Lots of folks struggle with the timing marks on this, they’re hard to see, and wonder why their cars run like garbage after a new timing belt goes in.

It’s off a tooth. That’s why it runs poorly. And the above check would’ve caught that.
Not being nasty but now I can see the truth in owners of old Volvos claiming they will nickel and dime you to death. Well in the next few days I will have changed the oil and flushed the cooling system. I must transfer the title. get my registration and plates and the next part of the voyage will begin. I'll keep you all posted. I see you own a 1932 Packard. My wife has a 1924 Willys Overland Model 91 touring and I own a 1930 Studebaker Dictator two door sedan.
 

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
One cause is operating crankshaft hitting the oil causing aeration.
Usually due to oil overfill, high oil level could also be caused by fuel in the oil, raising the oil level.
Thanks Danno. The oil level is only half full. The oil smells of gas but no more than usual.
 

Astro14

$100 Site Donor
Staff member
Messages
12,588
Location
Virginia Beach
Not being nasty but now I can see the truth in owners of old Volvos claiming they will nickel and dime you to death. Well in the next few days I will have changed the oil and flushed the cooling system. I must transfer the title. get my registration and plates and the next part of the voyage will begin. I'll keep you all posted. I see you own a 1932 Packard. My wife has a 1924 Willys Overland Model 91 touring and I own a 1930 Studebaker Dictator two door sedan.
Sorry to have missed your reply.

I would love to see pictures of the Stude and the Willys sometime.

You’ve got a 20 year old car here. It needs a bit of TLC. My wife’s 2002XC is up on the lift right now for a suspension refresh, oil change, timing belt, brake flush and few other odds and ends. It has 265,212 miles on the odometer.

Her 20 year old Volvo looks 1/4 of its age. It has great paint, nice leather interior with no flaws, runs perfectly, has great brakes, is very comfortable.

A bit of TLC on an old Volvo rewards you with a very practical, enjoyable, nice looking car. It’s a great value.

Owners who complain are the kind who neglect the car, then are shocked, shocked! That a Volvo requires any service. They’re very durable. But they do require work. Do the small service now and avoid the big repair.

Cheers,
Astro
 

Gandolf

Thread starter
Messages
15
The Volvo belonged to my sister-in-law. She bought it new in 2001. It sat in a garage until last October. The paint is excellent but the interior is filthy. The drivers seat is worn on the left edge from going in and out. The license plates look like they were brand new yesterday My brother-in-law never changed the oil or the antifreeze. The air filter was impacted and the center electrodes of the spark plugs were worn down to the porcelain. I couldn't get the drain plug loose but I did put in 6 oz of Seafoam. The occasional valve tap settled down to the rhythmic tick of the lifters. The engine fires immediately. He stopped using the car when it started throwing catalytic codes. The dealer wanted a fortune to replace the cat. I believe it started throwing codes as the mixture got way too rich. After replacing the plugs and filter the codes went away. I haven't had the chance to put my reader on the car. Was going to go back with 1/2 inch tools to remove the oil plug and drain and flush the cooling system. I don't think the car was ever waxed. Will wax with the new 303 graphene wax. A good vinyl and leather cleaner with treatment with 303 should do the trick Freezing temps compounded by high winds these past two weeks keeps me from climbing around under the car. Will keep you posted.
 

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