Dayco timing belt kit. Hope it's ok

Didn't seem like you had much of a choice. You need a phone when you have a 3 yr old, that's you're priority. Bad luck that the phone crapped out. If it didn't, and you had the extra money, Aisin would've been you're best bet. But, life is about making correct choices. You chose the phone & you're 3yr old over the Trooper. You did right.. Can't predict the longevity of the Dayco kit. Feel bad for all the labor you're going through. Best of luck with it. Better than it leaking now, so, worry about it later.
The labor isn't bad at all. It looks worse than it is. Book time is 2.8 hrs.

So far no parts have showed up yet. Was supposed to be here Tues but I got a msg that it's been delayed.
We are just minutes away from the 2 ND worst drivers in America and not far from San Bernardino which is bad too.
I figured it's likely to get smashed before the new pump leaks.

Btw I did not get a new phone to replace my broken one.

Screenshot_20250619-063854.webp
 
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Didn't seem like you had much of a choice. You need a phone when you have a 3 yr old, that's you're priority. Bad luck that the phone crapped out. If it didn't, and you had the extra money, Aisin would've been you're best bet. But, life is about making correct choices. You chose the phone & you're 3yr old over the Trooper. You did right.. Can't predict the longevity of the Dayco kit. Feel bad for all the labor you're going through. Best of luck with it. Better than it leaking now, so, worry about it later.
The labor isn't bad at all. It looks worse than it is. Book time is 2.8 hrs.

So far no parts have showed up yet. Was supposed to be here Tues but I got a msg that it's been delayed
Good luck with the new phone !!!! :)
That's gotta wait till next pay day
 
Unfortunately most AutoZone and O'Reilly's parts are Chinese junk from the same junk factories. The parts industry sucks right now. OEM is a person's best bet. Even that is no guarantee. I just hung an OEM factory Kia water outlet that had crappy dorman insignia all over it. Had to redo it a week later. Frustrating 🤦
I have a feeling for brakes, belts/hoses, electrical/ignition/sensors and chassis it’s all from the same vendors for all the boxes. Bosch/MAT/FMP for brake pads, a Chinese vendor for rotors/drums/shoes. Standard Motor Parts probably fulfills the Duralast/MasterPro/Driveworks engine electronics/sensor programs, and BBB does rotating electrical. Belts and hoses, I know Gates does the O’Reilly MasterPro program, Conti handles AZ.
 
nthach hit the nail on the head. nthach does OUTSTANDING homework :) ., if I must say. Needed an alternator for my O3' Toyota Solara. Went to NAPA to get one. I was actually happy that it was re-man'd in Mexico !!!!...Still going strong 8k later, which is impressive ! Bottom line, EVERYTHING is outsourced from cheap labor countries. The guys in REAL RACING probably know where to get the good stuff. They also have the capital behind them to afford it. I'll be honest here, I'm just a regular Joe Schmo trying to save $$$$ on car repairs. Trumps tariffs are hurting us " little guys" / shade tree mechanics / grease monkeys. He's in la-la land if he thinks he going to bring mass manufacturing back to the states. That would take 40 years to accomplish. Grab you're deals when you can, and plan on keep wrenching. Garbage in, Garbage out, Repeat. My best advice is to go with Autozone brakes, at least when they crap out in 6k, you can return for new. Try to get OEM if you can afford it, when it comes to other stuff. Yeah, Toyota stocked an OEM alternator for my old Toyota. It was like $ 486.00. Who has that kind of money ???????
 
Parts showed up yesterday. The idlers are the exact same as the ones that were on it from the gates kit. The tensioner is generic with no markings. Belt made in Italy.
Fan clutch made in USA.

Pump is stamped dayco on it but seems to be the same manufacturer as the gates I took off.

Ran into another snag and am waiting on a helicoil thread repair for a 10mmx1.5 thread.

Many of the bolts were very tight. The one for the tensioner took the threads in the block out with it when I removed it last night.
 
Seems like a butcher put in that Gates kit. Makes sure you " chase" whatever threads are good, with a bolt and something like WD-40, to clean threads up good. Smear some anti-seize on the male threads of any bolts you're using. This way, next go round, they won't be stuck in there. Go easy on the helicoil repair thread when torquing down that 10mm. Don't use " thread locker" on anything, or the game is over next time. Use " Indian Head Shellac" on any water gaskets. It'll hold gasket in place and fill in any variances from machining mating areas..... That old school stuff is amazing. AND.....Get you're new phone.. YAY !!! :) Good luck, hope you get decent mileage from the repair.
 
nthach hit the nail on the head. nthach does OUTSTANDING homework :) ., if I must say. Needed an alternator for my O3' Toyota Solara. Went to NAPA to get one. I was actually happy that it was re-man'd in Mexico !!!!...Still going strong 8k later, which is impressive ! Bottom line, EVERYTHING is outsourced from cheap labor countries. The guys in REAL RACING probably know where to get the good stuff. They also have the capital behind them to afford it. I'll be honest here, I'm just a regular Joe Schmo trying to save $$$$ on car repairs. Trumps tariffs are hurting us " little guys" / shade tree mechanics / grease monkeys. He's in la-la land if he thinks he going to bring mass manufacturing back to the states. That would take 40 years to accomplish. Grab you're deals when you can, and plan on keep wrenching. Garbage in, Garbage out, Repeat. My best advice is to go with Autozone brakes, at least when they crap out in 6k, you can return for new. Try to get OEM if you can afford it, when it comes to other stuff. Yeah, Toyota stocked an OEM alternator for my old Toyota. It was like $ 486.00. Who has that kind of money ???????
almost $500 for your alternator but what is your time worth replacing the new junk multiple times? Or the reliability of not stranding you in some s...hole at the worst time. I do OE for my family safety
 
Seems like a butcher put in that Gates kit. Makes sure you " chase" whatever threads are good, with a bolt and something like WD-40, to clean threads up good. Smear some anti-seize on the male threads of any bolts you're using. This way, next go round, they won't be stuck in there. Go easy on the helicoil repair thread when torquing down that 10mm. Don't use " thread locker" on anything, or the game is over next time. Use " Indian Head Shellac" on any water gaskets. It'll hold gasket in place and fill in any variances from machining mating areas..... That old school stuff is amazing. AND.....Get you're new phone.. YAY !!! :) Good luck, hope you get decent mileage from the repair.
I've heard of that Indian head stuff but never heard used it. I like brush in can
Permatex high tack
 
Good point Wilbur :)...Fortunately, I'm retired and don't meander too far in that old Toyota. If the fam is going on a trip, we take the 13' CRV. Albeit, it has 614, and change miles on it, I trust that one more. As a matter of fact, the alternator died on that one too a few years back. I went on E-Bay, got a used OE alt from a junkyard (the CRV was rear ended in the pic ), and stuck that one in. Works great ! Reminds me of my youth. Climbing mountains of junk cars and pullin out parts. Yes Auto tech, I've used that Permatex high tack stuff too. But, it gets " stringy" when you're traveling long distance with it ( like a TH400 tranny pan ). Also, it tends to dry up in the bottle after a few months on the shelf, after opening. But it works well. That " old school" Indian Head is not stringy, and never dries up in the bottle. Works just as well as the Permatex. It's a gasket sealer that holds the gasket in place. Cheap too. Very good for water pumps, valve cover gaskets, thermostat housing gaskets, etc. Heat or oil does not affect performance of gasket. Good stuff :) But, in the end, use whatever you're comfortable using.
 
I have a feeling for brakes, belts/hoses, electrical/ignition/sensors and chassis it’s all from the same vendors for all the boxes. Bosch/MAT/FMP for brake pads, a Chinese vendor for rotors/drums/shoes. Standard Motor Parts probably fulfills the Duralast/MasterPro/Driveworks engine electronics/sensor programs, and BBB does rotating electrical. Belts and hoses, I know Gates does the O’Reilly MasterPro program, Conti handles AZ.
I recently had a p/s hose saga where O'Reilly used Sunsong and the fit was -- quite literally -- impossible. Autozone used Edelmann and the fit was a breeze.

I realize this is one instance, and the bigger problem is suppliers change so what was true yesterday may not be next year.

I think BBB does reman steering boxes for O'Reilly and they tend to suck. A lot.

Used to be able to trust Echlin electrical was likely better, but ~20 years ago that stopped being true. NAPA decided to join the price war but they should have tried to stay above the fray and differentiate themselves as higher quality, even if it means higher prices.
 
I recently had a p/s hose saga where O'Reilly used Sunsong and the fit was -- quite literally -- impossible. Autozone used Edelmann and the fit was a breeze.
Sunsong is doing a lot of brake hose/PS hose even with the OEMs. I wouldn’t be shocked if a Tesla or a Chevy has Sunsong from the factory. A lot of AC refrigerant and power steering hose is Parker - even on Japanese cars. Unless the car was made in Japan, then it’s Yokohama, Nichirin or Bridgestone AC/PS hose.
 
How true. Did restoration projects on an 03' Solara, 06' Camry, 13' CRV AWD. Got the brake hoses from E-Bay. They all came in complete 4 wheel kits. They are Sunsong ! They all fit dead on. They were not advertised as Sunsong......advertised as " brake hose kits". So far, so good. The OE hoses were cracked and brittle. I'll keep a sharp eye on these Sunsong's. Give them a good looking over when rotating tires and replacing brakes.
 
Good point Wilbur :)...Fortunately, I'm retired and don't meander too far in that old Toyota. If the fam is going on a trip, we take the 13' CRV. Albeit, it has 614, and change miles on it, I trust that one more. As a matter of fact, the alternator died on that one too a few years back. I went on E-Bay, got a used OE alt from a junkyard (the CRV was rear ended in the pic ), and stuck that one in. Works great ! Reminds me of my youth. Climbing mountains of junk cars and pullin out parts. Yes Auto tech, I've used that Permatex high tack stuff too. But, it gets " stringy" when you're traveling long distance with it ( like a TH400 tranny pan ). Also, it tends to dry up in the bottle after a few months on the shelf, after opening. But it works well. That " old school" Indian Head is not stringy, and never dries up in the bottle. Works just as well as the Permatex. It's a gasket sealer that holds the gasket in place. Cheap too. Very good for water pumps, valve cover gaskets, thermostat housing gaskets, etc. Heat or oil does not affect performance of gasket. Good stuff :) But, in the end, use whatever you're comfortable using.
I always wanted to try that Indian head stuff. What's it called again and where can it be sourced from? I'm so glad you mentioned that because years ago I wanted to try it then and totally forgot about it. Thanks
 
I always wanted to try that Indian head stuff. What's it called again and where can it be sourced from? I'm so glad you mentioned that because years ago I wanted to try it then and totally forgot about it. Thanks
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...low-temperature-sealing-2-oz.-20539/7160106-P

It looks like they have caved to the social justice warriors because AutoZone shows just "gasket shellac" and not "Indian Head gasket shellac"
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...-head-gasket-shellac-compound-2-oz/526723_0_0
 
I've heard of that Indian head stuff but never heard used it. I like brush in can
Permatex high tack
High Tack is the GOAT for cut paper gaskets. I never liked gasket shellac. I’ll use 3M weatherstrip adhesive or even contact cement(DAP Weldwood or Pilobond) if I have it laying around.

Don’t use RTV on cut gaskets in any case. That’s a rookie/hack mistake. Just adhesive on one side. The paper/cork needs to absorb some of that fluid it’s sealing in order to seal.
 
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