Started engine with no coolant after timing belt/water pump job

Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
1,061
Location
Brittany 🇫🇷
Hi everyone,

Just finished replacing the timing belt kit on a relative's car. I was tired and wanted to make sure the engine runs ok and forgot to fill the cooling system. The engine ran at idle for 30-45 sec without coolant in it. I feel stupid... How bad is it for the new water pump? I guess there's some kind of lubricant present on the seal from factory to help with the somewhat dry start or the fact it could take a bit to prime anyway but i've a perfectionnist and have a hard time forgiving myself!

The engine is a VW 2.0 TDI 140hp 8v year 2008.
 
Hi everyone,

Just finished replacing the timing belt kit on a relative's car. I was tired and wanted to make sure the engine runs ok and forgot to fill the cooling system. The engine ran at idle for 30-45 sec without coolant in it. I feel stupid... How bad is it for the new water pump? I guess there's some kind of lubricant present on the seal from factory to help with the somewhat dry start or the fact it could take a bit to prime anyway but i've a perfectionnist and have a hard time forgiving myself!

The engine is a VW 2.0 TDI 140hp 8v year 2008.
You are fine, about 2 years ago my neighbor restored a 1971 Plymouth Road Runner that he decided to put in a 572 Hemi Engine that had about 850 Horsepower, it was an engine with the Indy Heads. Over the course of a year, he would start the car and let it idle and then rev it a few times with no Coolant.

I cannot count the seconds, but it if you added every second up, it was way more than 30-45 sec!
 
At low power levels likely 3 or more minutes would not be a huge issue. Just look at all the non cooled drag race engines.
 
It's not the bearing that he's worried about, but the seal itself.
If it's like most seals, and it most likely is, it will be carbon on ceramic. In either case, the seal should be fine for that short period of running dry. The ceramic is hard, and the carbon part is inherently a lubricant. Fill it and go.
 
No problem. water pumps that needed lube went out with oil ports on distributors (yes they had them), some old timers had a grease fitting on the WP. modern one use a sealed cartridge bearing, the coolant helps keep it cool but has nothing to do with lubing it. A short run is not an issue.
water pump.webp

dist lube port.webp
 
Thanks everyone, i feel better about getting everything back together now. Thanks Trav, i really wanted to know what exactly was inside a water pump. 👍
 
At low power levels likely 3 or more minutes would not be a huge issue. Just look at all the non cooled drag race engines.
I have a good friend who builds drag racing engines that run on alcohol and nitro. They pour so much fuel into these engines that the fuel itself cools the engine. My son and I watched him dyno a 1200hp alki pulling truck engine. It went through 5 gallons of alcohol in less than 5 minutes of run time. The cylinders have such a large amount of fuel in them that if if doesn’t light, it will hydrolock and blow the heads off.
 
But the OP is concerned about his water pump not having water in it, concerned about the water pumps bearings. Not so much about the rest of the engine.
That is what a seal is for, to keep H2o etc out of the bearings. Look at the photos posted above.
 
No problem. water pumps that needed lube went out with oil ports on distributors (yes they had them), some old timers had a grease fitting on the WP. modern one use a sealed cartridge bearing, the coolant helps keep it cool but has nothing to do with lubing it. A short run is not an issue.
View attachment 267026
View attachment 267027
Geez you're reminding me to fill the cups on my Bridgeport ;)
 
That is what a seal is for, to keep H2o etc out of the bearings. Look at the photos posted above.
The large seal in the rear keeps pressurized coolant from getting to the bearings rear seal. the actual bearing seals wouldn't like 20 psi of hot coolant pushing on them. On some pumps eg Toyota it is normal to see a small amount of pink staining under the weep hole.
 
Back
Top Bottom