No problem. I've found that self adjusters never do, so after doing it myself, the truck stops nice again for a while.
Cryo Rotors vs. Other slotted rotors
- Thread starter KC Strip
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In my experience, rotors warping has alot to do with the torque of the wheel nuts.
Instead of spending money on high dollar drilled rotors, I'd buy a torque stick, and keep them torqued properly.
As for the cryo rotors, I would save the money, and buy something with a long warranty at a parts store.
I would stay away from ceramic pads, as they really chewed up brand new motorcraft rotors on my f150, which drove me crazy.
Instead of spending money on high dollar drilled rotors, I'd buy a torque stick, and keep them torqued properly.
As for the cryo rotors, I would save the money, and buy something with a long warranty at a parts store.
I would stay away from ceramic pads, as they really chewed up brand new motorcraft rotors on my f150, which drove me crazy.
I put the Brembo OEM replacement rotors and Hawk LTS pads on my F150 and love them...
^^ torque stick, buy a torque wrench..
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"one had a crack"??????
are you talking about the brake shoe??? or drum???
If its the brake shoe I'd measure the ID of the drum. Oversized drums will crack the shoe material. Mis-adjusted shoes either too tight or extremely loose will crack the shoe.
If you order a set of US made Aimco or Raybestos brand rotors and put on a raybestos semi-metalic or ceramic pad you'll be fine. I have had customers with heavy duty use warp chinese made rotors but the robust US made ones seems to maintain less runout (less warping). For light duty street daily drivers a chinese/offshore rotor will work just fine.
Guys we are talking about brakes here....NOT formulating a "perfect" scientific combo. The R&D people developing brake pads/shoes have invested alot of money for the "premium" line pads/shoes.
I think cross drilled rotors for a street car is more bling than dramatic heat dissipation on the street. Autocrosss/road racing is a different automotive world.
are you talking about the brake shoe??? or drum???
If its the brake shoe I'd measure the ID of the drum. Oversized drums will crack the shoe material. Mis-adjusted shoes either too tight or extremely loose will crack the shoe.
If you order a set of US made Aimco or Raybestos brand rotors and put on a raybestos semi-metalic or ceramic pad you'll be fine. I have had customers with heavy duty use warp chinese made rotors but the robust US made ones seems to maintain less runout (less warping). For light duty street daily drivers a chinese/offshore rotor will work just fine.
Guys we are talking about brakes here....NOT formulating a "perfect" scientific combo. The R&D people developing brake pads/shoes have invested alot of money for the "premium" line pads/shoes.
I think cross drilled rotors for a street car is more bling than dramatic heat dissipation on the street. Autocrosss/road racing is a different automotive world.
Brembo's are fine.
Regardless of where a drum is made I've seen little issues. Remember even more expensive US/Canada made drums will/can be distorted straight out of the box. I've used alot of offshore and USA drums and sometimes I'll lightly lathe them straight to assure no runout.
Regardless of where a drum is made I've seen little issues. Remember even more expensive US/Canada made drums will/can be distorted straight out of the box. I've used alot of offshore and USA drums and sometimes I'll lightly lathe them straight to assure no runout.
I've read some people have had runout issues with OEM replacement brembo blanks, but not sure what application the issue was on.
every single rotor you buy will have runout!!!! Think of the 40 foot container it was shipped in. Handling from the shipping docks, warehouse worker, parts counter person and parts delivery driver will increase the chances of a box being dropped. It doesn't matter what brand you buy. I've had raybestos and Aimco (USA made) vibrate after my first test drive.
North American made or offshore they all come out of the box from time to time warped!!!
North American made or offshore they all come out of the box from time to time warped!!!
The few times I took my truck to the dealer I had to re-torque the wheels to spec. Even they like most shops, will slap them on with 150lb + of torque. That's a sure way to warp your rotors.
Here's my experience with runout . I mentioned earlier that I replace my rotors annually because they only cost 28 dollars each. I've found that cutting rotors on 1500 Yukons or Suburbans renders them too thin. In other words, they don't heat sink effectively and then they warp. I gave up paying 13 dollars to cut them because they warp almost instantly. I used to have a small fleet of Ford vans. The E250 brakes could take a couple of cuts, but the 150's would warp if cut. My Yukon has 193,000 miles on it now. It's on it's second or third set of rear drums, but I've serviced the rear shoes a few times. The fronts get new rotors and pads annually and I've even had to replace the calipers once. Odd actually. The mounting hardware broke and it was actually cheaper to replace the entire caliper than to only buy the bolt kit.
Akebono ProACT.
I don't have any personal experience with Akebono ProACTs, but they are used by many on the Acura forum that I moderate. We've never had any complaints about these pads. They are absolutely noiseless even in less than perfect installs, low dust, low rotor wear, long life, and they do not compromise stopping power (actually, improves it slightly) unlike many retail ceramic pads. Many people use them with Brembo OE fitment rotors without problems.
I think I'm going to buy someone a rear set of Akebono ProACTs in the coming week or two for their 2001 TL. I'll let you know how they'll turn out, but let's just say I am expecting them to be perfect...
I think I'm going to buy someone a rear set of Akebono ProACTs in the coming week or two for their 2001 TL. I'll let you know how they'll turn out, but let's just say I am expecting them to be perfect...
might want to try the Hawk HPS also.
I'm actually using the Duralast Gold on the civic now....now problems.
I'm actually using the Duralast Gold on the civic now....now problems.
Akebono’s on my 2001 Saturn and I love them, 10k miles later I can still see cross patterns from original machining on the rotors. Low dust, absolutely no noise and the stopping power is just as good as any of the other brake pads that I have. We’ll see how easy on rotors these will be and their lifetime.
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