Do you need in new rotors? I'm new to this concept but it makes sense.
Sanded Rotors
- Thread starter thejon
- Start date
Makes sense...
If what you are stating was correct. it would effectively mean that rotors never wear out.
The scratches are trivial and any relevant issue would vanish the first time the brakes are applied.
Meh, not enough to matter, and it could be the opposite, that if the focus is on the raised, glazed area, it could by a tiny bit, correct the rotors rather than making them be off by more.
There is no way to know which happened if either, without before and after measurements, but based on the one pathetic picture we saw, they look fine.
Rust forming in those trivial scratches would be trivial, no worse than anyone using perfectly fine used rotors with new pads.
The rust would not at all, "quickly destroy(ed) the surface". The rust would not spread at all, scrubbed off the rotor surface the same as always, as if it was just parked outside in the rain for a couple days. Rust belt does not change this.
You will not have max braking from the first mile. Trying to bed them in, will not achieve that. Even if both the pads and rotors are brand new, it's more like dozens of miles after bed in, unless by bed in you drive with brakes applied as they would have been for those dozens of miles. Once you start reusing rotors, it's more like hundreds of miles, if ever. If there are significant grooves, it may not have max braking for much of the life of the pads. Of course by that I mean, then rotors that bad should be replaced but in reality that doesn't always happen and the picture we saw did not suggest that they needed replaced.
Those are small scratches and will make only a small difference for a small # of brake activations.
The best outcome for the topic would have been to just run those rotors 100 miles then check back on what they look like then.
Welcome to BITOG @thejon . This reminds me of 50 years ago when my expert mechanic father-in-law used regular wheel bearing grease on my Ford Escort instead of the service manual recommended Ford moly grease. I thought the world would end. How naive I was (still am).
You will be fine with whatever your choice is. Learn to interpret the opinions tossed about here. Next, you should ask about the use of anti-seize in vehicle applications, LOL.
You will be fine with whatever your choice is. Learn to interpret the opinions tossed about here. Next, you should ask about the use of anti-seize in vehicle applications, LOL.
Give it a couple weeks and you won't even see it. I wouldn't waste the money on new rotors over a few small scratches
Yes absolutely bed the brakes again. The process is to allow brake pad material to deposit itself on the rotor surface. All brake pads should be bedded in.
If I'm going to pad slap anything, these are in my box and ready to go. I've been using them when needed for years and years.If you're going to do it, at least use the right tools for the job,
Depending on the friction material, it is a definite possibility. Non-metallic pads do not wear rotors very much at all; it is definitely possible to go thru several sets of pads with minimal rotor wear.
This forum is awesome, I really appreciate all of the replies and help. One last quick thing: is it normal for rotors to wear more on the outside at first? Keep in mind, they're new pads on old rotors. I ordered new rotors and I'm going to replace them but I want to make sure everything is cool with the brakes themselves. I double checked everything, replaced the hardware, re greased everything and from what I can tell, everything seems to be moving like it's supposed to. I'm including a pic of one of the rotors and one of the rear outside pads. **Thing is, the wear on the outer edge is on all four wheels. Hard to think something is off on all four wheels but I want to make sure. Do the brakes just need time to fully make contact? I'd say It's been about a week and a half since the brakes were changed.
It’s totally normal since the rotors were not turned. That means the old pads wore the rotors unevenly and now the new pads are taking the shape of the rotor.
You said you got new rotors, well without new pads, expect the current pads to wear unevenly until they conform to the new rotors.
Honestly I would leave all of this alone and budget for an early full brake job down the line.
You said you got new rotors, well without new pads, expect the current pads to wear unevenly until they conform to the new rotors.
Honestly I would leave all of this alone and budget for an early full brake job down the line.
I always sprayed them down with brake cleaner and then did a dawn soap and water to get the film off.
Should have done that from the beginning, honestly... I was quoted$500 from the shop and my buddy needed some cash and said he could do it for way less. But after this headache, I should have just had a pro do it. Oh well, the brakes have a lifetime warranty which includes wear so I'll just take your advice and run what I have for now. Thanks, KrisZ
We all make mistakes and hindsight is always 20/20. I've made plenty of blunders myself, but the saving grace for me was that I did all of the work myself so I had no one else to blame lol.
On a positive note, I see that the outer edge score marks are starting to wear out and disappear, so perhaps it's not as bad as it looked initially.
Well they certainly meet the “non-directional surfacing” spec
I've used 80-120 grit Emory on rotor/drum friction surfaces as an expedient, provided the surface wasn't chewed up.
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