Cryo Rotors vs. Other slotted rotors
- Thread starter KC Strip
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Unless you plan on racing that thing, I say they are a waste of $$$$.
I bought some slotted and drilled rotors from R1 concepts on ebay. Few guys on my truck forum has used them and are very happy with the performance and longevity.AND they are very affordable. I bought 4 for $173 shipped. They are the E-line. The truck members have also towed with them and have had no warping. The r1 concept guy order them and then machine them in their shop and send them out of zinc plating. I have not installed mine yet.
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Not cost effective IMO.
IF you have a floating rotor they are very affordable these days. As long as the hat do not warp they will be machineable. Offshore made rotors are very good these days. They will warp just the same as North american made rotors.
Rotors used with taper bearings are also affordable.
Just remember the pads will dictate when you need to machine the rotor. I would NEVER slap on pads on a "seasoned/used" rotor since it would more than likely have runout and pulsate. When you pads wear you need to get new rotors (bmw, volvo, mini's, Mercedes, VW) or machine your existing rotors as long as theres enought material left (within specs before discard levels)
I find many European cars distort the hat of the floating rotor so machining will NOT true out the rotors runout. Also on many occasions the rotor will reach discard levels after the first set of pads.
Vented rotors (per stock application) is all you need. They dissipate heat after long hills.
IF you have a floating rotor they are very affordable these days. As long as the hat do not warp they will be machineable. Offshore made rotors are very good these days. They will warp just the same as North american made rotors.
Rotors used with taper bearings are also affordable.
Just remember the pads will dictate when you need to machine the rotor. I would NEVER slap on pads on a "seasoned/used" rotor since it would more than likely have runout and pulsate. When you pads wear you need to get new rotors (bmw, volvo, mini's, Mercedes, VW) or machine your existing rotors as long as theres enought material left (within specs before discard levels)
I find many European cars distort the hat of the floating rotor so machining will NOT true out the rotors runout. Also on many occasions the rotor will reach discard levels after the first set of pads.
Vented rotors (per stock application) is all you need. They dissipate heat after long hills.
Your welcome. give them a ring they are nice guys at R1Concepts. They answered all my questions. Oh yeah if you do get the rotors form them, buy pads someplace else. The pads are not so great as reviewed from some posts on my truck forum.
My friend has a set of rotors from R1. I guess you get what you pay for. Zinc coating came off them in a mere 3 months. It's a daily driver 95 impala SS
For what you describe, get a decently priced set from the autostore and call it good.
For what you describe, get a decently priced set from the autostore and call it good.
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I have been looking around. I want to buy some pads that are not going to chew them up. Few guys have said Hawks are pretty good. Although my current pads are a year old and have no miles on them, I won't carry them over to the new rotors. I want something not so aggressive. I don't tow so longevity is my goal. I don't know if I want semi metallic or "ceramic".
I guess you get what you pay for
That statement does not make any sense
I believe they don't claim the Zinc coating will last forever. It is to help prevent corrosion and is better than NO coating.
Just because you buy them from an auto store wont guarantee anything. They buy their rotors form china too. Your just going to pay more.
I recommended them because they Ebay store does lots of business and has very good review plus the reviews I read from MORE than one person from my forum.
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gotta be careful on what type of pads you get for your brakes...getting a strong pad will be to harsh for some rotors and will cause warping.
also, RotorPros have very good set of rotors and are decently priced...
my current rotors are warped. I had them machined last year, because I wanted to change out the old pads. I bought some R&S store brand and after 3 months my rotors were warped. I was wondering if they were to harsh. They have already put grooves my rotors.
I have been reading about the ceramic hype and not buy some pads just because they say ceramic. The percentage of ceramic varies from brand to brand and type. I just want to have a good pad and rotor paring.
Anyone have any good recommendations for brake pads, that will stop well for everyday driving and not chew up the rotors?
I have been reading about the ceramic hype and not buy some pads just because they say ceramic. The percentage of ceramic varies from brand to brand and type. I just want to have a good pad and rotor paring.
Anyone have any good recommendations for brake pads, that will stop well for everyday driving and not chew up the rotors?
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The autostore chinese rotors look far better than the set of Ebay CD and slotted rotors I had purchased awhile ago. Plus with all the applications I've replaced brakes on, I've never had a problem with an autostore rotor having a stud (in a spindle mount setup) turn in the rotor like many of the guys on my forum had when they got in on a GP for some ebay rotors.
It's just my opinion what you're trying to recommend is overkill for what the thread starter is looking for. that big SUV will play some serious #@$%! on a set of rotors. Add in those more for looks than anything Cross Drilling, then you're going to get cracking, and end up having to replace the rotor. I've had zinc plated rotors from other more reputable(sp) companies last longer than I've seen ebay sellers coatings. My Cadmium coating still looks brand new on my rotors.
TruckU, I've had great luck with my Hawk HPS pads on my daily driver. I've also had good luck with Duralast Gold Pads, and the Performance Friction Z rated pads.
More than likely the warping you're experiencing is the metallurgy of the rotor being affected by a heat soak (ie. a hard spot) and often combined with friction material or bonding agent "cooking out" of the pad and depositing on the rotor during the heat soak, thus creating what is too-often described, erroneously, as a "warped" rotor. It's pretty hard to actually warp a street rotor.
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Great tip on pads will check them out....Thanks
I hear ya, I have read a lot about some of the ebay rotors and they are almost all never good. I opted for the e line because it didn't have a million holes in the rotors, because I was worried about stress cracks on the holes. They are chamfered holes. My everyday driving and no race use shouldn't create any stress cracks.
So what you described would occur from some cheap a$$ pads that I bought...lol
looking at Hawk's site http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/
I hear ya, I have read a lot about some of the ebay rotors and they are almost all never good. I opted for the e line because it didn't have a million holes in the rotors, because I was worried about stress cracks on the holes. They are chamfered holes. My everyday driving and no race use shouldn't create any stress cracks.
So what you described would occur from some cheap a$$ pads that I bought...lol
looking at Hawk's site http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/
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I've been using Hawk HPS pads on my '99 Civic HB for 3 years now and just bought a new set to put on when I get a chance.....I admit I haven't tried many other types to really be able to compare, though.
I haven't heard anything bad about them, if that counts?
Greg
I haven't heard anything bad about them, if that counts?
Greg
My daily driver is a 1998 Yukon. I use parts store rotors with Bendix Kevlar pads. The rotors cost 28.00 apiece, so I swap them annually. The trick to these trucks stopping well is to adjust the rear drums when you rotate the tires. Do that and you'll have no stopping issues.
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