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Especially since going to an oil extractor.
Crush washer truth
- Thread starter TomYoung
- Start date
Especially since going to an oil extractor.
Pretty simple to understandI have never understood the point of reusing a crush washer.
Absolutely nothing wrong with cleaning, annealing and reusing a solid aluminum or copper washer in good shape
JHZR2
Staff member
The Mercedes oil filter kits come with them. So I tend to just put the new one on.
The copper ones can be re-annealed.
On the Hondas I use them a few times and then replace. They are aluminum and have never leaked.
The copper ones can be re-annealed.
On the Hondas I use them a few times and then replace. They are aluminum and have never leaked.
I bought the full aluminum and full copper set on Amazon. I’ll never run out!
There are so many types of crush washers I am not sure one standard answer works.
The Nissan ones listed earlier that completely crush I change every time. But lots of people do not per the Nissan boards.
Ditto with the fiber Toyota ones, but I know lots of people use those at least twice also. Not sure why - There cheap. I keep a good stash.
Now the washers on my diff's are large aluminum flat washer types. Nissan says to replace, but I never have, and they never have leaked. Of course I am the only one that touches them, so they don't get over-torqued. I do have new ones, but every time I look at them and they look fine to me?
The Nissan ones listed earlier that completely crush I change every time. But lots of people do not per the Nissan boards.
Ditto with the fiber Toyota ones, but I know lots of people use those at least twice also. Not sure why - There cheap. I keep a good stash.
Now the washers on my diff's are large aluminum flat washer types. Nissan says to replace, but I never have, and they never have leaked. Of course I am the only one that touches them, so they don't get over-torqued. I do have new ones, but every time I look at them and they look fine to me?
And yet it seems like I could go three or four changes with no ill effect, based on responses here.
It seems that these washers can be used more than once, and according to some folks, rarely will they leak. But they can become damaged and seep or leak. Since it can happen, and especially because a leak may go unnoticed and cause a mess, I just use a new one every time. It's cheap, almost no cost, and I don't have to think about it going forward.
Yeah, you can play the odds, and you may come out ahead, but that's not my style for a fifty-cent or so saving.
Yeah, you can play the odds, and you may come out ahead, but that's not my style for a fifty-cent or so saving.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
It’s fairly low torque and low tech anyway compared to “coined” seals in HPHT applications …
Some of it -- at least on things like Toyota truck diffs -- is about application. Specifically, I'm far more concerned with a drain plug than a fill plug, but to do the job by the book you should use a fresh crush washer on each. I agree, but if I'm low on washers I know which one I'm really worried about
Respectfully, because they are reusable, at least to a point. Most of the posters here state they have reused a crusher warsher with no issue.I have never understood the point of reusing a crush washer.
I am witness to this. So for that 2nd use, it performed equal to a new one; there is no difference or benefit.
Full disclosure, I have a pretty good stash. Honda/Toyota/Nissan well stocked, but I have numerous other sizes covered.
If there is any question the old one goes in the trash, even if it means a trip to the parts store.
I replace the crush washer if the one already on is leaking. I don't understand the OCD insanity of replacing something that is working fine.
If it started to leak, you'd see a small tiny puddle and have plenty of time to fix that.
If it started to leak, you'd see a small tiny puddle and have plenty of time to fix that.
Because it costs about 52 cents each oil change to do it...and no worries about it leaking...52 cents every 7000 miles or so...
Mazda charges $1.18 for washers. I replace it every OC and I know which way it goes. I give the bolt one last tug and it won’t go any more. It’s tight and it doesn’t leak.
The 18mm aluminum crush washers on my cars deform a tad upon tightening.
You can see where a "central annulus" is forced into the pan by the drain plug's shoulder.
Atikovi mentioned the good, consistent feeling when the crush washer yields.
I'll do you all one better. I have scrap sheets of sintered brass and diamond abrasive belting.
I scoot the used washer back and forth a couple of times and VOIL'A, a new washer. For over 20 years they haven't leaked, and you even get that groovy crush-feel.
And note, I've seen new ones at Volvo dealers which are thinner than any I've trued.
Re the Saabs: They had copper washers which worked fine too and exhibited way less deformation than aluminum.
Still, I'd give 'em a light buff and again, instant new washer.
My question is, why would a copper washer need to be "reannealed"?
If I'm correct in recalling that annealing means 'softening', how would they reharden during use?
And before the rabble accuses me of stifling the economy by being a cheapskate with washers (ha-ha), let me tell you I tried REAL HARD to find washers in the many parts outlets around me. It's important to note that it wasn't just them not having them (safe to assume the pros don't change 'em too often?), it was the stupid faces these apes would make when asked.
You can see where a "central annulus" is forced into the pan by the drain plug's shoulder.
Atikovi mentioned the good, consistent feeling when the crush washer yields.
I'll do you all one better. I have scrap sheets of sintered brass and diamond abrasive belting.
I scoot the used washer back and forth a couple of times and VOIL'A, a new washer. For over 20 years they haven't leaked, and you even get that groovy crush-feel.
And note, I've seen new ones at Volvo dealers which are thinner than any I've trued.
Re the Saabs: They had copper washers which worked fine too and exhibited way less deformation than aluminum.
Still, I'd give 'em a light buff and again, instant new washer.
My question is, why would a copper washer need to be "reannealed"?
If I'm correct in recalling that annealing means 'softening', how would they reharden during use?
And before the rabble accuses me of stifling the economy by being a cheapskate with washers (ha-ha), let me tell you I tried REAL HARD to find washers in the many parts outlets around me. It's important to note that it wasn't just them not having them (safe to assume the pros don't change 'em too often?), it was the stupid faces these apes would make when asked.
I change them every oil change.
FWIW I like the o-ring type drain plugs the best and retrofit them if I have a car without one.
Found an old picture of my old Mazda 3 drain plug with the original washer, I think it had around 70-80k miles at the time I think. It looked identical when I got rid of it at over 200k miles. It was always bone dry between OCIs.
Change it, don't change it, it makes no difference in the grand scheme of things.
Change it, don't change it, it makes no difference in the grand scheme of things.
Most of the time you can get them for even cheaper on Aliexpress. That's where got my last 10 pack for my beater Subaru. Perform exactly like OEM.
