CR-V Owners (and others too) - Need advice
- Thread starter glennc
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We have the dealer aftermarket sunroof option, which is nice. It has roof racks too, with fixed cross bars. I had to take the whole thing off to remove the cross-bars w/o damaging them. Took like 10 minutes and it's definately quieter.
It is supposed to be CVT. Anyway, I am using the Amsoil ATF now and will see what happen. I still need more drain and fill 2 more times. Like, peking said "I tried Amsoil before and for some reason it hesitated when the fluid was cold." I am observing it right now. To be exact, I am looking in to third - forth gear shifting. It seems to shift slower than normal. But, I have to see if I step on the gas pedal too much that the computer decide to go 4th later (> 40mph). If I smoothly go, then it will go to the forth gear around close to 40 mph. I drive VP so I don't have the tachometer to check the rpm
FWIW, I switched my Gen2 CR-V auto AWD to Valvoline Maxlife ATF and noticed absolutely no difference. Honda Dual Pump fluid is a necessity, though. As for oil, I think anything short of Crisco would be fine. I've run every weight from 0W20 to 10W30 in mine.
Agree on the recommendation of HondaSUV.com. Never been to CRVownerclub. But for oil advice, I'd recommend sticking to BITOG as the only REAL oil-knowledgeable posters I've encountered on hondasuv are also bitog posters. Otherwise you're likely to hear all sorts of tall tales, myth, and dire warning of impending doom.
CR-Vs are great vehicles. I've got 95k miles on my 2002, 36k of those from the first year which I used it to commute on the highway each day. Except for the a/c compressor going at about 55k miles (fixed for $1200)
it's been the most trouble-free car I've owned.
Agree on the recommendation of HondaSUV.com. Never been to CRVownerclub. But for oil advice, I'd recommend sticking to BITOG as the only REAL oil-knowledgeable posters I've encountered on hondasuv are also bitog posters. Otherwise you're likely to hear all sorts of tall tales, myth, and dire warning of impending doom.
CR-Vs are great vehicles. I've got 95k miles on my 2002, 36k of those from the first year which I used it to commute on the highway each day. Except for the a/c compressor going at about 55k miles (fixed for $1200)
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
FWIW, I switched my Gen2 CR-V auto AWD to Valvoline Maxlife ATF and noticed absolutely no difference. Honda Dual Pump fluid is a necessity, though. As for oil, I think anything short of Crisco would be fine. I've run every weight from 0W20 to 10W30 in mine.
Agree on the recommendation of HondaSUV.com. Never been to CRVownerclub. But for oil advice, I'd recommend sticking to BITOG as the only REAL oil-knowledgeable posters I've encountered on hondasuv are also bitog posters. Otherwise you're likely to hear all sorts of tall tales, myth, and dire warning of impending doom.
CR-Vs are great vehicles. I've got 95k miles on my 2002, 36k of those from the first year which I used it to commute on the highway each day. Except for the a/c compressor going at about 55k miles (fixed for $1200)
it's been the most trouble-free car I've owned.
Our AC compressor was bad from the factory as I knew the original owner. Took the dealer 2 years to find a leak in it with blue dye. It was a casting defect that was porous and would lose the charge over 1 season. They replaced it at 40k for free.
FWIW, I switched my Gen2 CR-V auto AWD to Valvoline Maxlife ATF and noticed absolutely no difference. Honda Dual Pump fluid is a necessity, though. As for oil, I think anything short of Crisco would be fine. I've run every weight from 0W20 to 10W30 in mine.
Agree on the recommendation of HondaSUV.com. Never been to CRVownerclub. But for oil advice, I'd recommend sticking to BITOG as the only REAL oil-knowledgeable posters I've encountered on hondasuv are also bitog posters. Otherwise you're likely to hear all sorts of tall tales, myth, and dire warning of impending doom.
CR-Vs are great vehicles. I've got 95k miles on my 2002, 36k of those from the first year which I used it to commute on the highway each day. Except for the a/c compressor going at about 55k miles (fixed for $1200)
Our AC compressor was bad from the factory as I knew the original owner. Took the dealer 2 years to find a leak in it with blue dye. It was a casting defect that was porous and would lose the charge over 1 season. They replaced it at 40k for free.
Well, I was stupid enough to try and recharge mine myself before I knew of the issue with CR-V compressors. So when I took it to be repaired, I assumed everything was my fault. So they charged me $1200 for a "new A/C system." One and a half years the same thing happened. Turns out, all they had replaced was the compressor and the "black death" had cruded everything up. The dealer pointed bout to me that there was no way they had replaced an entire a/c system for $1200. Well, I raised a stink about the fact that I had been promised a new system, and it was in the dealer computer that the recommended repair was a new a/c system, they went ahead and covered the $2300 to replace everything. They then offered me a three year warranty on the replacement for $100, which I gladly paid.
But other than that, all I've ever done is change oil, replace tires, change tranny fluid, and change dual pump fluid. The Gen2 can swallow a TON of cargo in the back. With the seats down, it's as useful as any pickup. With the seats down, there's still plenty of room to take my family of 5 on vacation with plenty of space for luggage, toys, and ice chest. I've never invested in a trailer hitch as I've always felt the low towing capacity wasn't worth it. If I need to tow, I borrow my FIL's Explorer. I haven't had the need to tow anything in three years.... This was my first new vehicle to buy and I haven't regretted it 6 years later (especially now that it's paid off).
But other than that, all I've ever done is change oil, replace tires, change tranny fluid, and change dual pump fluid. The Gen2 can swallow a TON of cargo in the back. With the seats down, it's as useful as any pickup. With the seats down, there's still plenty of room to take my family of 5 on vacation with plenty of space for luggage, toys, and ice chest. I've never invested in a trailer hitch as I've always felt the low towing capacity wasn't worth it. If I need to tow, I borrow my FIL's Explorer. I haven't had the need to tow anything in three years.... This was my first new vehicle to buy and I haven't regretted it 6 years later (especially now that it's paid off).
Our 1st gen 1998 model with auto-tranny had tranny failure at 110,000 miles, then again at 250,000 miles.
However engine and all other components were reliable. A/C out at near 200,000 but that was expected. CV joints still holding fine at 300,000 miles. Started burning about 1/2 qt oil every 5,000 miles near 300,000 miles. Never had engine flushed and the engine clean as a whistle. Used primarily Mobil1 5W-30 every 5,000 miles.
However engine and all other components were reliable. A/C out at near 200,000 but that was expected. CV joints still holding fine at 300,000 miles. Started burning about 1/2 qt oil every 5,000 miles near 300,000 miles. Never had engine flushed and the engine clean as a whistle. Used primarily Mobil1 5W-30 every 5,000 miles.
My mom's 1999 CRV had the compressor go out multiple times within the few years she had it.
I thought my mom was simply unlucky.
I thought my mom was simply unlucky.
Thanks again everybody for the very useful feedback.
Audi Junkie - glad to hear you've had some success with non-Honda trans fluid. Any idea of the pros/cons of going with the Honda stuff? Looks like your PO took exceptional care of that car - great engine compartment photo. I'd love to have a sunroof, did you say this was a dealer option? The dealer actually cuts a hole in the roof and installs a drive system and motor and modifies the headliner and so on and so on? That sounds crazy.
BrianWC - what's the issue with the CR-V compressors? A recall or something? Maybe something I ought to check? Speaking of buying CR-Vs new, the resale on these has been so good that it would probably have been a reasonable bet to have bought a new one when they first came out, and it was even something we (sort of) considered. I'm way too cheap to buy a new car, though, don't even want to. Also, I'd have driven it into the ground by now.
Sounds like the trannies are definite potential problems on these. Any ideas what I should watch for? Maybe it's better to stick with the Honda fluid, or is there a good argument that something else might be better?
Also sounds like the Honda fluid for the diff is an absolute must. Nobody even hints at anything different there.
Later today I'm going to price the Honda fluids and filters at the local dealer. Hoping not too unreasonable.
Anybody think I'd get any benefit from running a lightweight oil? I was thinking maybe M1's 0W-30 fuel-saving oil, or possibly Red Line 5W-20, to get lower viscosity but still with good HTHS and overheating protection.
Oh, by the way, I was wondering if the CR-V has a trans fluid cooler. If not, does anybody know if it's easy to install a universal aftermarket cooler?
Thanks again.
Audi Junkie - glad to hear you've had some success with non-Honda trans fluid. Any idea of the pros/cons of going with the Honda stuff? Looks like your PO took exceptional care of that car - great engine compartment photo. I'd love to have a sunroof, did you say this was a dealer option? The dealer actually cuts a hole in the roof and installs a drive system and motor and modifies the headliner and so on and so on? That sounds crazy.
BrianWC - what's the issue with the CR-V compressors? A recall or something? Maybe something I ought to check? Speaking of buying CR-Vs new, the resale on these has been so good that it would probably have been a reasonable bet to have bought a new one when they first came out, and it was even something we (sort of) considered. I'm way too cheap to buy a new car, though, don't even want to. Also, I'd have driven it into the ground by now.
Sounds like the trannies are definite potential problems on these. Any ideas what I should watch for? Maybe it's better to stick with the Honda fluid, or is there a good argument that something else might be better?
Also sounds like the Honda fluid for the diff is an absolute must. Nobody even hints at anything different there.
Later today I'm going to price the Honda fluids and filters at the local dealer. Hoping not too unreasonable.
Anybody think I'd get any benefit from running a lightweight oil? I was thinking maybe M1's 0W-30 fuel-saving oil, or possibly Red Line 5W-20, to get lower viscosity but still with good HTHS and overheating protection.
Oh, by the way, I was wondering if the CR-V has a trans fluid cooler. If not, does anybody know if it's easy to install a universal aftermarket cooler?
Thanks again.
Nobody really mentioned the PSF. Honda's is fine and you could add some LubeGuard PSF additve to it or somehting else like ATF+4 or good Dex like M1 ATF. I just use Honda with an oz of Auto-Rx.
I wonder if evacuating the a/c system and refilling with new juice would be aworthwhile.
Yes, the dealer does the sunroof and it's awesome. No issues at all. Name brand is "Starlight", iirc and it's fully retrating and automated. I have the brochure and will correct myself if that's the wrong brand.
I also think some of the better pop-out sunroofs are well worth doing DIY. Even when fixed, they let light in. I don't like being in the car w/o a open roof and feel confined. Gotta run.
I wonder if evacuating the a/c system and refilling with new juice would be aworthwhile.
Yes, the dealer does the sunroof and it's awesome. No issues at all. Name brand is "Starlight", iirc and it's fully retrating and automated. I have the brochure and will correct myself if that's the wrong brand.
I also think some of the better pop-out sunroofs are well worth doing DIY. Even when fixed, they let light in. I don't like being in the car w/o a open roof and feel confined. Gotta run.
What year is your CR-V? I'm not sure when they switched the recommendation from 5W30 to 5W20, but I'd stick with the weight they recommend. My '03 has had Redline 5W20 since about 20k; now at 87k we've had no issues whatsoever, no burning, no consumption. I've never had to top it off between oil changes since starting with Redline. It's perfectly clean, too.
I use Purolator P1 14610 oil filters, and no issues there. Used a Wix once, and no issues there either. It's awkward to reach and get a good grip to unscrew unless you put the front end up on jack stands and reach over the left wheel.
I use Honda air filters, as their construction seems far more substantial than any others on the market, including Wix.
I hear so many conflicting bits of advice regarding transmission fluid that I've decided just to use the Honda fluid on the seemingly safe assumption that it is the least likely to do any harm. Others may be perfectly fine, but I don't know -- and that is the point. It's 7.31/quart at my dealer, and to totally flush it I need 9 quarts. It dumps 3 at a time, and in between each 3 I cycle it through all the gears and drive it around the block. Seems like an awful waste of fluid, but that's the way the owner's manual, the Haynes book, and the dealer all say to do it. Be sure to use a new crush washer after the final 3 qt. dump. And if you're going to be towing, I'd definitely flush all the old stuff out.
Changing the power steering fluid is similar. They also say only to use the Honda Genuine fluid for that. The reservoir holds 1/2 pint. I pump it out and refill it 6 times, driving around a little between each time, using a total of 3 pint bottles at a total cost of $12 and change. The whole process takes 15-20 minutes.
There's my 2 cents. Enjoy your ride.
I use Purolator P1 14610 oil filters, and no issues there. Used a Wix once, and no issues there either. It's awkward to reach and get a good grip to unscrew unless you put the front end up on jack stands and reach over the left wheel.
I use Honda air filters, as their construction seems far more substantial than any others on the market, including Wix.
I hear so many conflicting bits of advice regarding transmission fluid that I've decided just to use the Honda fluid on the seemingly safe assumption that it is the least likely to do any harm. Others may be perfectly fine, but I don't know -- and that is the point. It's 7.31/quart at my dealer, and to totally flush it I need 9 quarts. It dumps 3 at a time, and in between each 3 I cycle it through all the gears and drive it around the block. Seems like an awful waste of fluid, but that's the way the owner's manual, the Haynes book, and the dealer all say to do it. Be sure to use a new crush washer after the final 3 qt. dump. And if you're going to be towing, I'd definitely flush all the old stuff out.
Changing the power steering fluid is similar. They also say only to use the Honda Genuine fluid for that. The reservoir holds 1/2 pint. I pump it out and refill it 6 times, driving around a little between each time, using a total of 3 pint bottles at a total cost of $12 and change. The whole process takes 15-20 minutes.
There's my 2 cents. Enjoy your ride.
Thanks. I'm thinking Purolator filters as well, very good and easy to get. Still haven't decided on oil. I have an email into Dave Grandquist at Redline to see what his recommendations are on all the fluids (including the diff - kind of as a test). I wonder what the benefits of doing three immediate trans changes are instead of just shortening the interval. I understand it is a Honda recommended procedure, though.
Maybe I will just use all Honda fluids - except motor oil and coolant.
I have ordered a new cabin filter, which has probably never been changed, and some odds and ends like new wipers and so on. I will be adjusting the valves ASAP, but it will still be several hundred miles from now as we have a busy weekend coming up over the 4th.
The car is a first-year, '97 model. I was tempted to hold out for a '99 or '00 since they bumped up the engine output a bit, but this was the right deal at the right time and we are all very happy with it so far.
I like to flush a power steering system once by running the output line into an oil pan and putting a couple quarts through the system, to get all the old stuff out. I'll probably do that on the CR-V at least once if I can figure out how to accomplish it.
Thanks for the post!
Maybe I will just use all Honda fluids - except motor oil and coolant.
I have ordered a new cabin filter, which has probably never been changed, and some odds and ends like new wipers and so on. I will be adjusting the valves ASAP, but it will still be several hundred miles from now as we have a busy weekend coming up over the 4th.
The car is a first-year, '97 model. I was tempted to hold out for a '99 or '00 since they bumped up the engine output a bit, but this was the right deal at the right time and we are all very happy with it so far.
I like to flush a power steering system once by running the output line into an oil pan and putting a couple quarts through the system, to get all the old stuff out. I'll probably do that on the CR-V at least once if I can figure out how to accomplish it.
Thanks for the post!
ABSOLUTELY CHECK VALVE GAP NOW. These motors are known for valve stretch which can lead to early major failure.
Relatively torque-tuned motor for honda. no 5w-20. Yes 5w-30. Castrol, M1, PP ran nicely in ours.
Must use Honda "dual pump fluid" in rear. no substitutes. If not sure of maintenance history, do it now.
AT was very good in ours. After having experimented with other substitutes, I went back to Honda Z1. Others caused eratic behavior after 12,000 miles.
If you're gonna tow, add an AT cooler. I don't think the stock cooling is adequate.
M
Relatively torque-tuned motor for honda. no 5w-20. Yes 5w-30. Castrol, M1, PP ran nicely in ours.
Must use Honda "dual pump fluid" in rear. no substitutes. If not sure of maintenance history, do it now.
AT was very good in ours. After having experimented with other substitutes, I went back to Honda Z1. Others caused eratic behavior after 12,000 miles.
If you're gonna tow, add an AT cooler. I don't think the stock cooling is adequate.
M
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Yep, valve adjustments are a must! I just picked up a 113k mile '98 CR-V LX auto FWD from my parents and did the valves on Sunday... i would say only 6-8 of the 16 valves were out of spec. Last valve adjustment was 27k miles ago. Dad fed this CR-V primarily Chevron Supreme & Schaeffer 7000 5w30 with 5k mile OCIs. No UOAs to my knowledge but NO oil consumption in those 5k OCIs.
My routine will be Checker-bought 49 cent after rebate Chevron Supreme or Shell Formula 5w or 10w30 with Purolator oil filters. Did the math yesterday... about $5.05 per oil change!
My routine will be Checker-bought 49 cent after rebate Chevron Supreme or Shell Formula 5w or 10w30 with Purolator oil filters. Did the math yesterday... about $5.05 per oil change!
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I got 21.6 mpg on about 80% E85 today, driving kinda fast into and out of the city with the a/c on full time, automatic trans and 4WD. Not bad.
Had a 2000 crv put about 155k (km's) on it before it got stolen from our driveway
Nice little truck, fuel efficient, versatile and can take the abuse. Just a bit underpowered.
I was running Castrol GTX in it for all its life (had it since brand new) then switched over to High mileage as we got that stuff for cheap motor was sound.
Just a note, on the B20 motors its a good idea to stay on top of valve adjustments, they tend to go out of wack faster then normal other then that great little truck, you're wife will enjoy it!
Heres a pic of our old V:
Insurance paid us off and we picked up an 07 Acura RDX to replace the CRV with. (yes we love our beloved hondas!)
I was running Castrol GTX in it for all its life (had it since brand new) then switched over to High mileage as we got that stuff for cheap motor was sound.
Just a note, on the B20 motors its a good idea to stay on top of valve adjustments, they tend to go out of wack faster then normal other then that great little truck, you're wife will enjoy it!
Heres a pic of our old V:
Insurance paid us off and we picked up an 07 Acura RDX to replace the CRV with. (yes we love our beloved hondas!)
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