Couple of questions on differential fluid change out.

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I have a 2002 Camaro and a 2003 Silverado. I need to change out the diff fluid to get all the break in crud out. I can not do this my self so I'm wondering what is the best way to do this. I will probibly take the cars to the local quick lube because the dealer wants $75 labor and $50 for the fluid!!!
They can pump out the old fluid or take the diff cover off. What should I tell them to do? I think they would get more of the old fluid out by removing the cover? If they remove the diff cover do the bolts need to be torqued to a certain # of just tighten up good?

Also what would be a good diff fluid to use? Should I use the same fluid for both the Camaro and Silverado od do they need different kinds? I have read that synthetic diff fluid is best and what weight should I have them put in?
Thank you for the help!
 
Call a local 4wd truck specialist. They have losts of expereince with rwd vehicles and should be a good deal cheaper than a dealer.

I had brought mine to a quick lube place and they told me that the sway bar had to be removed. I was like, "Just give me the keys." All they needed to do was lift the car and the sway bar would have moved out of the way, but if they are not smart enough to figure that out...

[ July 29, 2003, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
Why not just do it yourself? Changing diff fluid is very easy. Just place an oil pan under the diff. loosen all the bolts.....pry the bottom of the cover out just a hair to let the fluid drain. Then take off the cover, clean the cover and the housing mating surfaces. apply a thin layer of rtv to the cover, place a gasket on the cover, apply another layer of rtv to the other side of the gasket and install the cover. Wait about 8 hours for the rtv to cure and install fluid. Some people just use rtv and no gasket, and that method is fine as well........Just don't use so much that the rtv squishes out during the install.
 
sbc350gearhead. Their is a somewhat new product out. It is called The Right Stuff. It has been on the OTC market for about 2 years and has been used in the plants for a while. It has a 1 minute work time and is 100% cured and ready for service in less then 5 minutes. It is impervious to fuel,oil,coolant, and most automotive solvents. It is much more flexable when cured then RTV and it has incrediable adhesion. It has OEM part numbers for just about all of your major automotive manufactures at the Plant level. It is expensive but woth every penny. I get mine in the calking tube size not the prssurized can. I belive it is silicone free. THis is important because the typical silicones used in regular RTV will actualy cause foaming in ATF. It has something to do with how the silicones are crossed linked. GM has published an SAE paper on this subject.

This is the product Dodge is useing at the factory level to seal the transmission pan to the trans. It is black in color. I even used some to hold a trim plate on a vechile body.

P.S. Do not get this stuff on you hands it will not come off. Your skin has to wear away!
 
The right stuff huh.....never heard of it. Where can you find it at? It sounds like good stuff. I use ultra high temp copper RTV for just about everything. I have never heard of the foaming problem with RTV on trannys. Thanks for the info.

[ July 29, 2003, 07:25 PM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
 
Oh and the fluid question. Lakewood BFL is probably the best mineral based gear oil according to summit and jeg's. (summit doesn't even sell the stuff and they recommend it) I switched out to Royal Purple maxgear at it seems to work well so far (I have only had it in about a week). I have heard great things about redline light shockproof as well. I would stay with a 75w90 or 80w90 in both vehicles unless the truck is a 3/4 or 1 ton and you do alot of heavy towing.
 
No No No

Go to a retailer or supplier buy 3 qts of Redline, Royal Purple, Shaeffers etc and give to the dealer have them install it.

Save on parts that way.

Therefore the dealer only charged me 66.00$ for one hour of standard labor...plus the 3.00$ Camaro gasket and sealer compound.


I say have them do it. Gear oil is stinky and if your novice it can be a mess.
 
JohnBrowning: Thanks for the review of The Right Stuff. I'll use it next time.

I used RTV on my rear diff cover on the Jeep Liberty and it dripped and didn't seal two times.
The third time, I got some gasket material and made a gasket. (Later, someone here gave me a FelPro part no.; said I didn't have to go to the trouble. But the Liberty parts listings don't show everything yet.)

Also, just replaced valve cover gaskets on a 5.0L Ford. Used a Premium FelPro Silicone set... $25.
Could have used the Right Stuff for about $15.
I see it at AutoZone and all places in the Permatex display. And it's about $15, vs. about $4 for RTV. In my cases it would have paid off.

Question: can you seal it up well and reuse it later.. or is it pretty much a one job/ one tube ?

Re: factory sealant on Chryslers... the sealant on the Jeep rear was red. It was h*ll to get off. Very tenacious. I assumed it was factory.

Another: How easily does the Right Stuff come off ? Particularly on aluminum cases.. transmissions.. much scraping needed ? I've never had a transmission pan gasket leak.. even with cork.. or have to be scraped off the aluminum case. Is it overkill here ?
 
A trip through the Owners Manual will certainly help to determine if the two vehicles use the same weight of gear oil and whether a GL-4 or Gl-5 is acceptable. Redline makes a great variety of gear oils.

I syphon out the the oil on mine but either way it is a royal pain, messy stuff to deal with. A drain plug shure would be nice.
 
My 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD has a drain plug on the rear differential. Changing it is very easy to do, although you might need to get a suction gun from an auto parts store to refill it.
 
I just use Victor Reinz steel core + cork gaskets on the rear covers.

you can re-use it and it never leaks. I despise using RTV becuase its a PITA to clean up.
 
The differential in your truck should have synthetic fluid in it from the factory. I'm not sure about the car. Check the owner's manuals on both to see what you need. The synthetic rearend fluid from the dealer, I'm pretty sure is made by Texaco and is about $25 a quart.

Also be careful about using RTV with the synthetic rearend fluid because it may not be compatible. GM has a TSB out on it.

Wayne
 
Funny story:

I used a Victor Reinz gasket on a Dodge transaxle - I tossed it in the garbage and even crumpled it up.

I replaced it with a Fel-Pro - BIG MISTAKE. It would not seal right and kept drippling.

I ended up uncrumpling the Victor Reinz and re-used it - hasn't leaked a drop in 2 years. I keep on forgetting to get a new one.

I have 2-3 Ford 8.8" rear end gaskets that I keep on constant rotation. So long as you don't cut or damage them, they should be re-usable for a long time. I would just use a new one to be safe.

Anyhow, I use Redline, Pennzoil, and other synthetic gear lubes w/ the Victor Reinz w/o any leaking or seeping.
 
do it yourself, extremely easy to do. one thing, loosen fill plug before draining your gear lube.

not sure about your chevys, but my toyota truck has a differential drain plug that makes changing rear differential super easy.

i use redline gear lube.
 
It was really easy to change rear differential fluid on my 2001 Trans Am. Make sure to get a FelPro gasket (part# RDS 55072). I bought that gasket at Advanced Auto. Also I spent $29.95 for SLP differential cover w/ drain plug. Next time I change oil, it will be much easier
grin.gif
A hand pump also makes a job less messy.
Here is a website showing you how to change rear differential oil change Lube Chages. Good luck!
 
Thanks Turbofrog that is some good stuff! Thanks also to everyone else! I think I'm going to try this myself and see how it goes!
 
I have a 2001 GMC Ext Cab Z71 and a 2002 Firebird Trans Am WS6.

Use a gasket on both. My TA uses 2 gaskets and they come from GM packaged as such, 2 were on it.

Yes they are easy to change but can be messy. Make sure you have a big pan to catch the old fluid. Don't remove all the bolts, just loose them that pop the cover to let the fluid drain.

I had both of mine done by the dealer, hard to crawl under the bird and they disposed of the used oil. The cost was nothing like you mentioned, about the same as an oil change.

I used Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 in both vehicles. Its been in the truck since 2001 and about 40,000 miles now. Its a G80 Limited slip and it makes no noise. The TA its only been about 7000 miles since this spring, 12,000 total miles on car. If you use the Amsoil or any synthetic, don't add a FM (friction modifier) it not needed. GM sells this as a limited slip additive but its only for mineral based lubes and not recommended for synthetics by GM. The lube in my TA was like new, there was no crude in it or in the rear end. btw-I also had them install synthetic ATF in the 6-sp.

A word of caution, don't use any sand paper, steel wool or any abrasive to clean the differential gasket sruface. You will contaminate the the gears with dirt that you cannot see and you can remove metal that will make a seal difficult. Be carefull cleaning the cover, use of a wire wheel on the gasket surface is ok but make sure you clean it in solvent etc. This is were is pays to be clean, hands, rags etc.

btw
I have done this myself countless times over the last 30 yrs but its not fun anymore.

[ August 01, 2003, 08:18 AM: Message edited by: Mike ]
 
I have a few thoughts in this life I want to share.....
1) always remove the fill plug first! If you can't fill it back up, don't drain it!
2) If you can't stop, don't go! Meaning make sure you have good brakes on your vehicle!
3) If you can't steer, don't drive! Meaning if your tires are low on tread, get new ones!
Ok, I feel better having said that. Thanks
 
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