1997 Silverado trans fluid change advice

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May 26, 2009
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854
Location
Hill Country TX
I have a 1997 Silverado 5.7 168k miles, that I'm thinking about changing out the fluid with some Maxlife. The transmission fluid change/maintenance is unknown. Don't believe it has a drain plug. So will extract from dip stick and replenish as needed.

Fluid does not smell burnt, but does seem old, and well used. Truck shifts fine.

I've heard it's best not to mess with an older trucks transmission. but it's probably due for some fresh fluid.
 
Sounds like a good plan. Although I'd personally be tempted to swap the filter and clean the magnets. Maybe throw a pan with a drain plug on it, for easier Drain & Fill in the future.

Most of the "Don't Touch old ATF" stories come from people who do a complete "flush" with a fluid machine, which back-flushes the 200k miles worth of trash out of the filter back into the valve body, bands, solenoids... And then they blame the fluid when transmission fails in few hundred miles.
Best way to do it is: New filter, followed by partial Drain & Fill every 20k-30k miles.
 
This is what I’ve done biannually on my old 2005 4L60E for the last 10 years. My pan doesn’t have a drain bolt and the pan has never been off and is at 246,000 miles and it still shifts great and the fluid looks new.
Up here I'd be reluctant to remove "old" pan bolts. Down in TX? I'd expect them to zip out with ease though.

At this age, if I wasn't going to pull the pan, I'd probably pull the cooler line and do a full fluid exchange, as the old ATF is all "old" and slowly changing isn't buying anything. Once it's good fluid, then periodic D&F makes sense and isn't that much work to do while keeping the fluid mostly new and fresh.
 
You can get a drain plug kit for around $10 and add a drain plug to your current pan. Way cheaper than a new pan. Just drill a 1/2 inch hole and the drain plug kit bolts in. It has a large bolt, with a small drain bolt that threads into the larger bolt, which is what you install into the pan. Won't help for the initial dropping the pan, but will be there for future drain usage.

FWIW, I recently added one of these drain plug kits to a 2004 Ford 4R70W trans with 188K miles. Changed the filter and cleaned the magnet. Wiped the pan clean as well. Fluid was not the original, but was certainly well used and overdue for draining. Nice thing on these Ford trans, they have a drain plug on the converter, so you can drain out approx 11-12 quarts if you do both converter and pan. Refilled with Maxlife and a bottle of Lubeguard red. Trans shifting much better!
 
You can get a drain plug kit for around $10 and add a drain plug to your current pan. Way cheaper than a new pan. Just drill a 1/2 inch hole and the drain plug kit bolts in. It has a large bolt, with a small drain bolt that threads into the larger bolt, which is what you install into the pan. Won't help for the initial dropping the pan, but will be there for future drain usage.

FWIW, I recently added one of these drain plug kits to a 2004 Ford 4R70W trans with 188K miles. Changed the filter and cleaned the magnet. Wiped the pan clean as well. Fluid was not the original, but was certainly well used and overdue for draining. Nice thing on these Ford trans, they have a drain plug on the converter, so you can drain out approx 11-12 quarts if you do both converter and pan. Refilled with Maxlife and a bottle of Lubeguard red. Trans shifting much better!

A new pan is only $20 or so :unsure:
 
I would do a 3x drain and fill and do the filter. I was nervous about changing the ATF in my car with 130k miles with unknown service history, but it shifts a lot better now. And I was having issues with it shifting hard sometimes and the torque converter shuddering. I used Maxlife.

I think it is better to "risk" it changing the fluid then to let the transmission die on worn fluid.
 
I've been shopping for a built 4L60, I will be doing a change to TES-668 as the TES-295 is the older version and harder to get.
Delvac 1 ATF is still available on Amazon and Summit Racing. Just received a gallon from Amazon last week.
 
I have a 1997 Silverado 5.7 168k miles, that I'm thinking about changing out the fluid with some Maxlife. The transmission fluid change/maintenance is unknown. Don't believe it has a drain plug. So will extract from dip stick and replenish as needed.

Fluid does not smell burnt, but does seem old, and well used. Truck shifts fine.

I've heard it's best not to mess with an older trucks transmission. but it's probably due for some fresh fluid.
Maxlife is solid ATF. As long as the fluid is fairly clean, I would change the filter and pan fluid for sure, especially if you dont know the last service.

If the fluid is nasty, then leave it alone.........imo
 
About a year or two ago I did a pan drop and filter change on my all original 1997 C1500 5.7L 4l60E at ~350k miles with synthetic Maxlife and haven't had any issues.

The truck had one previous owner who said they did a pan drop and filter change at ~180k miles. Unfortunately, I don't know what fluid was used at that time.

Fluid looked very nice for 350k and only one change in its entire life; I'd say a 50/50 mix of brown and red. There was a pretty good amount of fine metal dust in the pan and on the magnet.

I've only put about 15k miles on the truck since the fluid change. Plan to use Maxlife again in about 50k.

Also recently used Maxlife in a 2021 Camry with 8 speed UB80 and it cleared up a shudder on acceleration into 4th gear. Gonna do another change on it in 30k to 50k.

Maxlife has been good to me so far.
 
pan drop/filter change then undo a cooler line and start the vehicle to pump a gallon into a empty jug. this will flush the pump and torque converter. top off as needed. max life is a good choice.
 
Read reviews on pans -- Dorman had an issue not stamping them correctly for awhile, but I think that was TH350s. That said, the Dorman pan for the 4R70 is one of the few Dorman products I recommend.

On the 4L60 I personally don't replace the filter seal unless it's obviously bad. Maybe that makes me a hack but IMO you're more likely to do damage trying to get it out or drive a new one in. Maybe there's a specialty puller kinda like the one for the shifter shaft seal?
 
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