Here we go again-it's the "Jiffy Lube" argument on this forum. Yes-for the thousandth time-it's cheaper to DIY but when someone has a business and overhead it's going to cost more. We are in agreement here.....
Cost for full brake job?
- Thread starter Jaymie
- Start date
The shop I use for stuff I can't do is not cheap, but they are fair. Always backlogged.
There's a reason for it.
They've pretty much gotten away from asbestos brake parts but there's still some out there.
If you're really worried about it, you could always wear a mask like an N95 or even a regular dusk mask. Asbestos is also a naturally occurring substance just like mold.
passing business expenses to customers is one thing and necessary in order to be profitable ... but dishonesty, padding and pushing for unneeded or unnecessary work is another story.
Examples:
Take a 3 years old car with perfect brake parts except the pads and they want to replace most brake parts like Les Schwab still does.
Take a $2500 car (or any other car for that matter) for an oil and filter change and instead of the $29 advertised, they want to push a $90 "synthetic" oil change plus new air and cabin filters plus radiator flush, wiper blades, etc. no matter if needed or not.
If a $2500 car comes to my shop and wants a $90 oil change, I would say no don't waste your money.
Oh wait, I don't have a shop!
Examples:
Take a 3 years old car with perfect brake parts except the pads and they want to replace most brake parts like Les Schwab still does.
Take a $2500 car (or any other car for that matter) for an oil and filter change and instead of the $29 advertised, they want to push a $90 "synthetic" oil change plus new air and cabin filters plus radiator flush, wiper blades, etc. no matter if needed or not.
If a $2500 car comes to my shop and wants a $90 oil change, I would say no don't waste your money.
Oh wait, I don't have a shop!
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I was referring to oil on hands, brake cleaner, trans fluid, etc..
This guy was always fair, did exceptional work. One of the few shops I have ever seen that had 4.9 stars on Google reviews.
Honesty pays off long term.
My mother got fleeced at Jiffy Lube, she paid for the synthetic BS for the tune of $110 plus tax. They also changed her radiator fluid, and somehow, some way, they filled the radiator with washer fluid. The radiator overflow and wash fluid reservoirs were next to each other, both with blue fluid. Radiator fluid in wash tank. I called and they blew me off, and I knew I'd wind up down there and leaving in hand cuff.passing business expenses to customers is one thing and necessary in order to be profitable ... but dishonesty, padding and pushing for unneeded or unnecessary work is another story.
Examples:
Take a 3 years old car with perfect brake parts except the pads and they want to replace most brake parts like Les Schwab still does.
Take a $2500 car (or any other car for that matter) for an oil and filter change and instead of the $29 advertised, they want to push a $90 "synthetic" oil change plus new air and cabin filters plus radiator flush, wiper blades, etc. no matter if needed or not.
If a $2500 car comes to my shop and wants a $90 oil change, I would say no don't waste your money.
Oh wait, I don't have a shop!
So I flushed her radiator..
Complete absolute dumbest thing I've ever seen.
Best made parts available for the application, in his experience. Instead of getting the $18 brake pads, you'll wind up with a highly rated set that are usually at a higher price point.
Hardware goes in the trash anyway.Premium = includes brake hardware
Non-premium = re-use your old hardware
In my experiences with rotors over the years, the least expensive ones warp quickly. The Wagner rotors I've used have never warped at all.Premium = includes brake hardware
Non-premium = re-use your old hardware
That is not really way to determine what is premium and not.
There are parts that are price-wise "up there" but I would not touch it with 10-foot pole.
OK, let me explain what I mean better... Instead of using the cheapest lower control arm available out there, he would choose to use the best quality part that he knows from experience will last down the road. Usually they are priced higher, no? Uses OE parts because in that particular situation he knows its the best lasting part in that application?
He'll go cheap when the customer asks for the bare minimum, with a notification of longevity of use..
Then you advertise using OE or OEM products. Premium is in the eye of the beholder and 99% of "snake oil" companies have a premium on their box or "best" etc.
passing business expenses to customers is one thing and necessary in order to be profitable ... but dishonesty, padding and pushing for unneeded or unnecessary work is another story.
Examples:
Take a 3 years old car with perfect brake parts except the pads and they want to replace most brake parts like Les Schwab still does.
Take a $2500 car (or any other car for that matter) for an oil and filter change and instead of the $29 advertised, they want to push a $90 "synthetic" oil change plus new air and cabin filters plus radiator flush, wiper blades, etc. no matter if needed or not.
If a $2500 car comes to my shop and wants a $90 oil change, I would say no don't waste your money.
Oh wait, I don't have a shop!
Yea-every shop does what you say. Another forum gross generalization on here.
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I don't think every shop does this and I never said that. Many good shops that for example I go to or refer people to.
However, as a general rule, the consumer should always be careful and aware of the fact that it's their own responsibility not to get screwed. If you don't know about cars, brakes, repairs, buying a car, etc. consult a friend, family memeber, co-worker, etc. instead of assuming that the other side will be %100 honest.
I think President Reagan said "Trust but Verify"
Checking lateral runout is important, especially in sensitive applications. The lower quality rotors can sometimes have issues with excessive lateral runout when new.
This is why resurfacing rotors using an on-car brake lathe can be superior to installing new rotors if the existing rotors are rust-free.
My machinist at work used to brought in his rotors for both his autos to check the runout and machine them.. He's a bit anal but they were kind of iffy.
That's the correct way to do it. However, checking the rotor after it is installed onto the vehicle is equally important. The rotors may need to be indexed to reduce the final LRO due to stacked tolerances.
This is why on-car brake lathes are a much more efficient solution. But at $20K/lathe, the privilege is limited to dealers or higher-end independent shops.
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