coolant filters for passenger cars?

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I think a coolant filter on a passenger car is a waste of time.Silcates are what destroy your water pump seal .Flush and refill is the only solution.My employer uses SCA filters on all their medium duty deisels,so they dont have to flush and fill.Man you should see the green jello that comes out of some of the older stuff.On the new ones the radiators usually dont last long enough to have the silicates fall out of suspension.I know the newer formulas of a/f are silicate free,but A little silicate offers good aluminum protection.My fifteen year old toyota radiator looks like new inside.
 
Diesel coolant is of low silcate formulation.

The 24+to/1 compression superheats the liners/area's around the pistons. And of course electrosis and liner pitting issues. These high temps drop silicon right out of the formulation.

A bypass filter is a great idea for all engines, but chemicals in the Antifreeze need to be monitored with a teststrip or analysis.

I would tend to go with the no chemical filter for a gas engine...got to be a cheaper filter somewhere?
 
I just went with what fleetfilter listed. They don't list the chem free filter on their site price schedule. 24083 (I think) lists at the LOCAL NAPA for $80 ..but then again ..the one that I paid $13 ($26 list) was only $6.xx at fleet filter
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I'll see what fleefilter wants for that filter and I'll get a $50 order together with the rest of the fleet's needs. I'll also call Wix and see what's up with the solid additive in the 24071
 
$2.50 Napa oil filters are cheap and chem free.
If you can get to a BG cool and cleaner system they have additive replinishment packs for after you clean the coolant.
 
Well, oil pan, normally I'd balk at a lube filter as a water/coolant filter. I'd have to hear some rhetoric from Filter Guy or Wix before I could do that. It may just be that you can't mix oil AND water in the same filter without issues. You appear to have done well with them.

But seeing as I kinda already have the 11/16-16 filter head (two of them, actually)...I'd sorta feel silly not getting a bona fide coolant filter
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quote:

Flush and refill is the only solution.

Can I take your word on that?
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What are your views on global warming and global economy? The energy crisis? Personal finances? j/k
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Have we determined that the additive in these filters are silicates ..and that the filter isn't there to capture all the stuff that allegedly will "sink out of solution" if and when it does ..if it indeed is (silicate based)?

I tried a search on IV inhibitors ..got nothing of worth.

Here was an interesting article ..but not too in depth web page

quote:

f you put one of these systems on a smaller cooling system you will get too much of this chemical stuff into your system and it will fall out of solution.

This may be true, LarryL. But I think that idea of the solid chemical is to have it disolve at a predetermined Ph (or whatever chemical state would constitute borderline depletion level). You can sit sodium hydroxide (potash) in solid form in water ..and it will only reach a max concentration level until you add more water. That's how some made their liquid caustic solutions. They would add dry potash and then add water (they may have done it the other way around to avoid violent reactions ...or maybe not
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). I imagine that the practice was abandoned due to the trend to engineer out certain risks.

IAT coolant were in use for decades, gentlemen. So have mixed alloy engines/cooling systems. The only evolution that I've seen away from silicates is to extend the drains of coolant ..to further remove the owner/driver from screwing up and move the services to the second owner ..or near the tail end of the first ownership. Properly maintained IAT cooling systems have lasted decades without component repair ..and even neglected IAT filled cooling systems have lasted a very long time/high mileage witout issues (mine being one with the development of external corrosive leakage from the aluminum head @ 170k/14years with very few coolant changes ...I put a rad in due to plastic tank gasket leakage).


So ..is everybody that convinced that the OAT and HOAT are the cat's meow?

The coolant filters, btw, are available without any additive. I'll be calling the WIX techline on Monday to see what they say about it.
 
I didn't think it would work untill I changed High pressure oil filters on an air compressor.
There 395psi burst oil filters. It's just a tough thick skined oil filter.
They were filled with oil and water from the compressors discharge.
And they were constructed like normal oil filters worked fine filtering oil and water mist.
They work even better filtering just water or coolant.
 
While having the water pump die while away from home would be very annoying, I would think that another important reason for clean coolant would be to keep the engine block, head and the radiator clean. The following quote is from the RMI-25 web site:


quote:
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Just 1/16 inch of mineral deposit on 1 inch cast iron is equivalent to 4 1/2 inches of cast iron, reduing heat dissipation by 40%.
Corrosion deposits of any kind raise the engine operating temperatures.
A spot of rust raises the temperature inside an engine as much as 700 degrees, causing hot spots and loss of cooling efficiency.

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Does any of that junk in the coolant eventually attach itself to the engine and form deposits or rust? If so, focusing only on the water pump as a reason to keep coolant clean is insufficient.
 
I cloged another coolant filter.
The first one cloged in a few minutes, this is the second one. It lasted about 3 weeks.
I'm not sure what is cloging them.
 
The following quote is from a post in the bypass filter thread by Ralph Wood:

quote:

When I bought my 6.9 Ford diesel the coolant looked very clean and green. I put tees in the heater hoses and installed an old Motor Guard M-100. It took about three filter changes before the TP started looking like it hadn't been laying in a mud hole.

Bypass Filter thread

So what you are seeing might be typical of every vehicle.
 
Oil Pan, you said that "My coolant is always cristal clear green."

As in, Prestone silicate-based green?

If so, you might be clogging the filter with silicates that have dropped out of suspension.
 
I use texico.
I don't do that dexcool died green all makes all models crap.
With what ever is cloging the filter there is a good chance it shouldn't be in there.
 
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