Spot on. Top screw unused. I installed the hot (?) wire on the top screw; the other 2 wires followed the burnt switch.
Cooked wall switch... Scary. Please come in...
- Thread starter JeffKeryk
- Start date
I think your ideas of hot and load are reversed; it makes more sense for power to come in on one of the bottom screws, be always shared with the other wire coming out of there, and having the wire going off to the light coming out of the top.
Back stabbing isn't the greatest; would be better if you could get that third wire under a screw like the style mentioned earlier in the thread.
Back stabbing isn't the greatest; would be better if you could get that third wire under a screw like the style mentioned earlier in the thread.
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I think you are right. Unless the switch operated 2 components, right? Maybe I will recheck next time I go over...
I asked them what the switch operated, to get a better understanding. I didn't get an answer...
That is exactly what I am guessing over the interwebs. Someone put another outlet or load on the incoming power not the switched side. Bad connection high current load. Heat smoke smell
Only one wire per screw and, as said, the wire must be bent around the screw. If you need two wires to a terminal (screw) you have to use a short pigtail on the screw and wire nut the three wires together. I, and most electricians, don't like the stab connections.
Thanks Pablo...
Excuse my ignorance, but is this bad? A problem?
It should be redone with no stab in connections. Use a wire nut to connect the two bottom wires and a new pigtail wire together. Then connect the pigtail to the bottom screw of the switch.
The pass through circuit is then on wire nuts both the hot and neutral wires. It doesn't depend on the switch at all.
The pass through circuit is then on wire nuts both the hot and neutral wires. It doesn't depend on the switch at all.
Your wiring looks OK but the bottom wire looks to almost contact the switch metal body. The wires should go straight back away from the switch.
It wouldn't let me double like your post.
Thanks. I watched a couple YT videos that said exactly that. My hindsight is 20-20!
I plan to get back in there. Gonna hafta check out the pigtail stuff...
This is a back wire switch.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...Switch-White-CSB1-2WS-R52-0CSB1-2WS/202035005
They are simpler to install since you don't have to loop the wire under the screw. Also you can legit connect two wires together on one screw.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...Switch-White-CSB1-2WS-R52-0CSB1-2WS/202035005
They are simpler to install since you don't have to loop the wire under the screw. Also you can legit connect two wires together on one screw.
The others have you covered. I am still a bit concerned about what the load is on that wire. It could be fine. You should find out and sounds like you are on it.
I also believe the wire stab was the cause of the heat. A poorly done job from someone. I would be pulling off the remaining wall plates and look further for the same practice through your house. I find it hard to believe there was no warning to this situation. There had to be some warmth to that switch before that happened.
I recently replaced a wall switch for my attic ventillator fan. The switch was getting warm, not hot but alarming. I replaced it and no more warmth from the new switch. Must have had enough internal resistance to create some heat. It pays to be attentive.
I recently replaced a wall switch for my attic ventillator fan. The switch was getting warm, not hot but alarming. I replaced it and no more warmth from the new switch. Must have had enough internal resistance to create some heat. It pays to be attentive.
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I would redo that light switch that you installed. As mentioned previously, the lower wire around the terminal is close to the metal body of the switch. (Even though the switch is not grounded either by metal box nor ground screw terminal. BUT if the either the line or load wire were to touch the switch's metal frame, it would be energized and be very dangerous especially if you have a metal and not a plastic cover.) Looking at your wiring with the two wires on one terminal, can't tell if it's the line or load side. There are better switches and better ways to wire up. I would check out the rest of the outlets and light switches and see how things look. While doing so, install better quality outlets (one's that cost $2 ea.) if the cheapest ones are used and they are old and if an appliance is plugged in which draws lots of amperage.
I've had these fail in the switch itself, particularly the soft 'no-click' type switch. They get stuck in a halfway position internally and end up arcing inside trying to keep the load on.
I'd also check the end of that circuit with the load for damage.
I'd also check the end of that circuit with the load for damage.
The lever is stuck in the off position. But that could also be due to the heat damage?
Thanks for your post.
Well, I asked my niece and her girls, and they said, "There was some sizzling, but it stopped."
If you decide to pigtail, give the Wago 221 3-wire or 5-wire connectors a try. In my experience they are easier to use than wire nuts.
Seen running a 2hp canister vacuum cleaner on a sw outlet burn things up. My wife said, "Who is smoking a pipe"
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