JeffKeryk
Thread starter
Spot on. Top screw unused. I installed the hot (?) wire on the top screw; the other 2 wires followed the burnt switch.Looks like someone scabbed onto the hot side. Disconnect and see what does not work
Spot on. Top screw unused. I installed the hot (?) wire on the top screw; the other 2 wires followed the burnt switch.Looks like someone scabbed onto the hot side. Disconnect and see what does not work
I think you are right. Unless the switch operated 2 components, right? Maybe I will recheck next time I go over...I think your ideas of hot and load are reversed; it makes more sense for power to come in on one of the bottom screws, be always shared with the other wire coming out of there, and having the wire going off to the light coming out of the top.
Back stabbing isn't the greatest; would be better if you could get that third wire under a screw like the style mentioned earlier in the thread.
That is exactly what I am guessing over the interwebs. Someone put another outlet or load on the incoming power not the switched side. Bad connection high current load. Heat smoke smellI think you are right. Unless the switch operated 2 components, right? Maybe I will recheck next time I go over...
I asked them what the switch operated, to get a better understanding. I didn't get an answer...
Thanks Pablo...That is exactly what I am guessing over the interwebs. Someone put another outlet or load on the incoming power not the switched side. Bad connection high current load. Heat smoke smell
It wouldn't let me double like your post.It should be redone with no stab in connections. Use a wire nut to connect the two bottom wires and a new pigtail wire together. Then connect the pigtail to the bottom screw of the switch.
Thanks. I watched a couple YT videos that said exactly that. My hindsight is 20-20!Your wiring looks OK but the bottom wire looks to almost contact the switch metal body. The wires should go straight back away from the switch.
The others have you covered. I am still a bit concerned about what the load is on that wire. It could be fine. You should find out and sounds like you are on it.Thanks Pablo...
Excuse my ignorance, but is this bad? A problem?
The lever is stuck in the off position. But that could also be due to the heat damage?I've had these fail in the switch itself, particularly the soft 'no-click' type switch. They get stuck in a halfway position internally and end up arcing inside trying to keep the load on.
I'd also check the end of that circuit with the load for damage.
Well, I asked my niece and her girls, and they said, "There was some sizzling, but it stopped."I also believe the wire stab was the cause of the heat. A poorly done job from someone. I would be pulling off the remaining wall plates and look further for the same practice through your house. I find it hard to believe there was no warning to this situation. There had to be some warmth to that switch before that happened.
I recently replaced a wall switch for my attic ventillator fan. The switch was getting warm, not hot but alarming. I replaced it and no more warmth from the new switch. Must have had enough internal resistance to create some heat. It pays to be attentive.
If you decide to pigtail, give the Wago 221 3-wire or 5-wire connectors a try. In my experience they are easier to use than wire nuts.Thanks. I watched a couple YT videos that said exactly that. My hindsight is 20-20!
I plan to get back in there. Gonna hafta check out the pigtail stuff...
I smell cookies.Well, I asked my niece and her girls, and they said, "There was some sizzling, but it stopped."