Conventional oil difficult to find!

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Jun 8, 2022
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832
I had the same "problem" with my 2008 Xterra, used valvoline conventional for years. Just try some different brands until you find one you like.

The first I tried was Castrol semi syn but it made my valve covers leak more. Granted they need fixing, but its not a measurable amount with certain oils, but the castrol it poured out. Then I did the Havoline box - great product, worked fine, but then couldn't find any during the pandemic - valve covers stopped leaking again mostly. Did one change with clearance Supertech - the old stuff - worked fine, but can't find it. Then had a couple bottles of Quaker state - the old bottle - worked fine but again can't find it now - its the 'every engine" designation now- might be the same, who knows. Next 2 changes will be the Chevron I already have - ordered at Walmart.

I would do the Havoline box but I have this irrational fear is it will leak on my floor somehow?

None of the above has grenaded my engine.
 
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Dec 28, 2011
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Maxlife 5W-30 is $17 at both Walmart and Amazon.

Is that high mileage? OP didn't want it. My Wally only has MaxLife high mileage. Good oil but I understand OP not wanting to go that route. IMHO I actually would give it a go at 250k and burning up to 2 quarts at 6k OCI. I normally shy away from HM oils but this application seems to be made for it.
 
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Not sure I'd pay $26 for it though.


I'm with you. My Wally has Mobil 1 EP 5-30 for $26.99 as the regular everyday price. Pennz Plat is same price point. I'd grab 1 of those first. I was also kinda shocked that Valvoline extended was $31.99 a 5 qt jug. I'm biased toward Mobil 1 but have a stash of Pennz Plat and IMHO no way I'm paying more for Valvoline. Same price? Sure could use any of the 3 as I'm sure they are so close you or your engine couldn't tell the diffeence.
 
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New here, I read through the threads, but no answer. I'm not an oil expert, but I like to keep conventional oil in my 2003 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl. 275K. I have to top it off a few times between changes, maybe a quart or two total over 6K. I also don't want to spend more than $20 bucks for 5 qt

My favorite oil was Quaker State Advanced Durability 5W-30, I was getting it for $18 from Walmart. There's still some around on the internet, but it's $27 (too much)

I can't find that anymore locally, so last oil change I used Pennzoil 5W-30 from Home Depot for $18 bucks. Now I can't find that! Not at Lowes, either.

Am I being too picky? I don't want to introduce synthetic into this vehicle, and I prefer not today use high mileage, either. I just want oil, straight oil.

What's next? Pay more for conventional, start using high mileage, or synthetic blend?
ST syn is so cheap, even in Canada, what's the point.
Just do the switch.
Nothing to worry about.
 

Jackson_Slugger

$50 Site Donor 2022
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New here, I read through the threads, but no answer. I'm not an oil expert, but I like to keep conventional oil in my 2003 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl. 275K. I have to top it off a few times between changes, maybe a quart or two total over 6K. I also don't want to spend more than $20 bucks for 5 qt

My favorite oil was Quaker State Advanced Durability 5W-30, I was getting it for $18 from Walmart. There's still some around on the internet, but it's $27 (too much)

I can't find that anymore locally, so last oil change I used Pennzoil 5W-30 from Home Depot for $18 bucks. Now I can't find that! Not at Lowes, either.

Am I being too picky? I don't want to introduce synthetic into this vehicle, and I prefer not today use high mileage, either. I just want oil, straight oil.

What's next? Pay more for conventional, start using high mileage, or synthetic blend?

Hate to tell you this, but the "conventionals" you've been using have probably been syn-blends since your precious 2003 Toyota was new....
 
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virginia
Most "conventional" oils that met last generation ILSAC 5 standards weren't even conventional, they were blends they just didn't tell you. 100% conventional oil can't meet current standards. Unless you find old old stock or an off brand of unknown quality you simply aren't going to be able to stick with conventional.
 
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May 21, 2018
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Most "conventional" oils that met last generation ILSAC 5 standards weren't even conventional, they were blends they just didn't tell you. 100% conventional oil can't meet current standards. Unless you find old old stock or an off brand of unknown quality you simply aren't going to be able to stick with conventional.
I did a side-by-side comparison of the "old" SuperTech 10w-40 conventional PDS and the "new" 10w-40" blend and they were exactly the same.
 
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Aug 27, 2022
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Ohio
I had to check some lists.

But PCEO’s still blended for me that are conventional:

10w40, 20w50, 30w and 40w.

I don’t think I’ve ever sold the 10w40. I’ve never had 10w40 in bulk in ~20+ years. Nor 20w50.

We keep straight weights around. However they’re all heavy duty, not PCEO straight weights.

Non-syn blends are the way of the dodo. You used to be able to get a group II 10w30 before SP. Now it’s a blend.

Before SN+ you could get a straight group 2 5w30/5w20 using re-refined base stock.
 
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Jul 14, 2020
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1,142
New here, I read through the threads, but no answer. I'm not an oil expert, but I like to keep conventional oil in my 2003 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl. 275K. I have to top it off a few times between changes, maybe a quart or two total over 6K. I also don't want to spend more than $20 bucks for 5 qt

My favorite oil was Quaker State Advanced Durability 5W-30, I was getting it for $18 from Walmart. There's still some around on the internet, but it's $27 (too much)

I can't find that anymore locally, so last oil change I used Pennzoil 5W-30 from Home Depot for $18 bucks. Now I can't find that! Not at Lowes, either.

Am I being too picky? I don't want to introduce synthetic into this vehicle, and I prefer not today use high mileage, either. I just want oil, straight oil.

What's next? Pay more for conventional, start using high mileage, or synthetic blend?
Buy whatever is on sale. I use full synthetic in my 47 year old Oldsmobile v8 even though it would be fine on conventional. Whatever might squeak a few extra years out of it is fine with me as I don't have $ for a rebuild. There is really no reason to go out of your way trying to get conventional.
 

RenHoek

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Feb 8, 2022
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2
Thanks so much for your replies.

I probably should have mentioned I changed from conventional to synthetic in one of my previous cars, and I went from having a car that never leaked oil to a car that needed a quart a week. That's why I don't want to introduce synthetic (no matter what anyone says that it should be no problem).

Thanks again.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
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Upper Midwest
Thanks so much for your replies.

I probably should have mentioned I changed from conventional to synthetic in one of my previous cars, and I went from having a car that never leaked oil to a car that needed a quart a week. That's why I don't want to introduce synthetic (no matter what anyone says that it should be no problem).

Thanks again.
From nothing to a quart a week?? You don’t say. That must have made a heck of a mess.
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2018
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Missouri
Thanks so much for your replies.

I probably should have mentioned I changed from conventional to synthetic in one of my previous cars, and I went from having a car that never leaked oil to a car that needed a quart a week. That's why I don't want to introduce synthetic (no matter what anyone says that it should be no problem).

Thanks again.
So what caused the loss of oil? Because it wasn’t the switch from synthetic
 
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I am with the majority of recommendations here...just switch to synthetic or blend, and don't look back. However, if you insist on conventional under $20, the closest you will get right now is Amazon basics or Castrol ultra-clean for $21.xx (Amazon). Or just get the oil change special at Advance (Fram conventional + filter) or Oreillys (house brand + Microgard) for $25.
 
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Joined
Dec 29, 2010
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5,874
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Paramount, California
New here, I read through the threads, but no answer. I'm not an oil expert, but I like to keep conventional oil in my 2003 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl. 275K. I have to top it off a few times between changes, maybe a quart or two total over 6K. I also don't want to spend more than $20 bucks for 5 qt

My favorite oil was Quaker State Advanced Durability 5W-30, I was getting it for $18 from Walmart. There's still some around on the internet, but it's $27 (too much)

I can't find that anymore locally, so last oil change I used Pennzoil 5W-30 from Home Depot for $18 bucks. Now I can't find that! Not at Lowes, either.

Am I being too picky? I don't want to introduce synthetic into this vehicle, and I prefer not today use high mileage, either. I just want oil, straight oil.

What's next? Pay more for conventional, start using high mileage, or synthetic blend?
Synthetic and conventional oils are the same thing, primarily a marketing term. The ones labeled synthetic are usually of slightly higher quality than the ones labeled conventional but not always. They are made using the identical refining procedure and thus practically the same thing, but the synthetic oil is hydroprocessed longer/more severely, which results in a higher quality than the so-called conventional oil, meaning better resistance against oxidation during the maintenance interval and less thinning (higher viscosity index) and less evaporation at higher temperatures. No, "synthetic oil" does not damage older engines. "High-mileage" is a marketing term as well. All oils are all-mileage.

Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 synthetic oil is only $21.48 at Walmart and will last longer (longer oil-change intervals) and keep your engine cleaner than your Quaker State conventional oil. It's a great upgrade over that for only $3.
 
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silinlimbo
  • RenHoek dont be one of those people who will not pay 20 dollars for something but will drive 15 miles to get it for 19.99. just get whatever the cheapest is you can find and use it...
 
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New here, I read through the threads, but no answer. I'm not an oil expert, but I like to keep conventional oil in my 2003 Toyota Highlander 4 cyl. 275K. ...

Am I being too picky? I don't want to introduce synthetic into this vehicle, and I prefer not today use high mileage, either. I just want oil, straight oil.
Conventional isn't conventional these days, and it isn't just a straight oil**. So don't be too picky.

I would try more stores or maybe engage a friend that has a warehouse membership.

May auto parts store - real ones, not the 4 major big chains - would usually have
Wolf's head (Amalie) or Amalie (Amalie) or Shell 10W30 at a decent price - or alternatively farm and fleet multi-vehicle HD 10W30 in pails. HD and Lowe's usually have convention at an OK price.

I would suggest you run a synthetic like Quaker State Full Synthetic 10W30. You car would love it. It wont do anything "nasty" because its a majority Alkane base similar to your "conventional" oil you have been running.

Where do you live geographically?
 
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Apr 12, 2022
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Massachusetts
Might want to try Chevron Chevron Supreme (blend) Not saying it's better than anything else, but I've been using it for for three cars for a few years and cars run quiet with and it's name brand and inexpensive. Seems like really good oil. If it's not stocked your local Walmart shipping is free if you buy 2 or 3 bottles to meet the free ship minimum.
 
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