Considering Making A Change, Honda has disappointed me

Fuel dilution is nothing to fear, I have had over 5% through the winter with one year with minimal fuel dilution. No wear metals out of the ordinary. That’s on a turbo car that gets thrashed daily. I have some fuel dilution in the summer too with my current tune. Once you test and test and finally except that if you don’t have wear metals out of average, why worry about wear metals that are not there.
I am still evaluating my Honda Accord Di turbo and plan to decide if I keep it or not after the next 12 months of shorter oci and uoa reports.
I have no clue what I would go to in place of the Honda Accord Exl models we been buying for the last 25 years. Mazda maybe?
 
I am still evaluating my Honda Accord Di turbo and plan to decide if I keep it or not after the next 12 months of shorter oci and uoa reports.
I have no clue what I would go to in place of the Honda Accord Exl models we been buying for the last 25 years. Mazda maybe?
I've wondered if the Accord 2.0t has similar dilution issues compared to the 1.5t, never heard much on that subject probably due to the far fewer numbers of the 2.0t out there
 
It’s basically a brand new vehicle, cut bait and buy something else. It’s too early in the game to have to make concessions on anything. And the C-HR would not be the answer in my opinion. Ive driven both and I’m not impressed with either, but the C-HR is definitely underpowered, tinny sounding, feels really cheaply made (IMO).
 
I am still evaluating my Honda Accord Di turbo and plan to decide if I keep it or not after the next 12 months of shorter oci and uoa reports.
I have no clue what I would go to in place of the Honda Accord Exl models we been buying for the last 25 years. Mazda maybe?
My BMW was getting old and I would like to have bought a new Accord Sport 2.0 6MT in red or blue. My local dealer couldn't provide one and then Honda stopped making 6MTs altogether.

The Mazda 6 is a very nice car. I seriously considered one. No manuals though and the back up camera is pretty fuzzy. They're nice in red.

But I bought a Tesla Model 3. And I'm happy with it.
 
Drive one first....MIL was looking at one....very noisy and underpowered. Ended up with a CX3.

This is something in the order of what happened to us when we went shopping for a new Corolla. We thought we were all but sure that it's what we wanted. But after sitting in one, (they're much smaller than we realized), then driving it, (the CVT transmission was horrible), we decided to go with a Camry.

It was larger, and much better driving due to it's gear driven 8-Speed conventional transmission. It also had far more power with it's 2.5 L 4-cylinder. (Rated at 203 H.P.). Sometimes want you think will please you, doesn't even come close in reality.
 
This is what Consumers Reports notes about the Toyota C-HR:

Predicted owner satisfaction 1/5.
Predicted Reliability 3/5.
"We found ourselves checking to see if the windows were up because of the pronounced wind noise at highway speeds."
 
I have only sat in a C-HR and just looking around, I can't see out the sides & rear of the vehicle in the fashion that I expect in a vehicle. Then there is(as skyactiv mentioned) the low reliability & owner satisfaction of the vehicle. Also something that gets my goat is that the C-HR is sold in other world markets with available AWD but not in our SUV driven country???????? :mad:

My thinking is(just me), this is why Toyota hurried to bring out the Corolla CROSS which should rectify the short comings of the C-HR. The Corolla CROSS isn't getting rave reviews, the reviews are just OK and not terrible. From the reviews that I have read and watched on YouTube, they are just kind'a Mehhhh! Not a bad thing, just Mehhh!
Even Toyota makes mistakes.

As to those who were concerned about HONDA's 2.0L Turbo in the ACCORD and fuel dilution? My understanding is that HONDA is not having FD issues with the 2.0T. Not saying that any turbo couldn't cause extra FD in the oil however, this hasn't presented itself in the 2.0T...according(no pun) to HONDA and other publications.

HONDA was supposed to have rectified the fuel dilution in the 1.5T with software updates for some years and software changes on current/new models along with some extra warranty. But to me, it's not enough for the best engine company on earth. FIX THE FIRKIN PROBLEM. :mad:

And as for the 2022 Civic getting HUGE? You're not kidding! My daughter just bought a '22 Civic LX(2.0 na engine on my recommendation) after her 2015 Civic LX was totaled. And this Civic is HUGE in the compact sedan category. Larger than my past ACCORDS...BTW, it's been a while since I've owned an Accord.

I'd say just by looking(not measuring) at the new '22 Civic, it's getting as large as the JETTA, another HUGER car in the compact sedan category. I've had trouble distinguishing(from a distance) the difference between the JETTA & PASSAT. And now, the Civic & Accord.
 
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You have a 7 year warranty. If something goes wrong then have them fix it. To get rid of a car solely due to UOA's and fuel dilution is very foolish. UOA's will never tell you the full story. I am willing to bet that even with that much fuel dilution that Honda will easily go over 100K miles with little to no problems at all.
 
There is one recipe against fuel dilution that thousands of Honda owners are using in their 1.5T engines. That recipe is 91/93 Octane fuel in the gas tank, and Euro rated 0w40/5w40 oil in the crankcase. Simple and effective. Try it before bashing.
Each and every one of our different vehicles has specific "needs" and requirements that may not match the manual. My F150 ecoboost ABSOLUTELY dilutes the oil with fuel and being in South Florida, does better with a higher viscosity. This is no surprise. What is interesting is that there are plenty of 3.5EB owners with failed timing chains and cam phasers at 100K miles, and they "wonder" how on earth this could happen... Answer, chains last longest with CLEAN 30 viscosity oil. Answer: Ultra thin oil, significantly contaminated with particulates and containing raw fuel or a high percentage of fuel evaporates, simply is not up to the task with some engines. Despite a glowing UOA.

People truly believe that oil can go 10,000 miles or more between changes because the UOA results show the oil to be in good shape and wear metals to be low. Yet they completely ignore the fact that significant fuel gets past the rings, into the oil, evaporates and leaves non-oil contaminates. Ever wonder why some engines seem to use no oil? This can be one reason, the oil consumed is replaced by evaporated fuel components.

With some engines, it's a good idea to choose the right oil and change it frequently. Turbocharged, direct injected engines are often on this list. It should come as no surprise that quick spooling turbo's produce high cylinder pressures from just above idle, direct injection sprays raw fuel into the cylinder, some fuel gets past the low tension piston rings and so on.

And yes, a viscosity increase can effectively offset fuel dilution.
 
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None as of yet, was planning to keep this CRV for 5 years or more, just concerned about the long-term effects of oil thinning. Situation: I'm 74, live in a townhouse and am unable physically to do my own oil changes. I have the Hondacare 120/7yrs so probably should stay with 0W-20 or 5W-20 for warranty requirements, I'd really like to go to 5W-30 if I could get away with it. I guess my best plan, short-term, is to go to 3k change intervals. Still might drive a C-HR just to convince myself. My 2019 Civic Touring Coupe was able to have excellent UOA's with 5K intervals on Mobil1 0W-20 AFE, pretty much the same engine but definitely less load, seems like the CRV is much harder on oil. The CRV is going in for an oil change on Monday, they're going to check programming, injector performance and the PCV system, perhaps something is awry. My dealer has a friendly service manager and I've got a young, eager Honda Certified Master Mechanic who is going to give it a good going over.
speedy3861, here is a factor to consider: your honda dealer seems like an excellent setup. i would want to know more about the quality of other makes’ dealers in your area before dumping honda. good luck on monday.
 
speedy3861, here is a factor to consider: your honda dealer seems like an excellent setup. i would want to know more about the quality of other makes’ dealers in your area before dumping honda. good luck on monday.
I'm fortunate to have an excellent Toyota dealer nearby where I'm good friends with the Asst. Service manager, so I've got viable options. Hoping I can resolve the CRX because I really like it.
 
^^^Speedy Indeed!
If you really like the CR-V and you have HONDAs extended warranty for the fuel dilution of the 1.5T, don’t concern yourself too much about the dilution issue since you wouldn’t have known w/o doing the UOA. Think of it this way…
*Have you done UOAs on other engines?
*Are you only doing UOAs on this engine just due to its reputation of fuel dilution?
*Most CR-V owners will drive the **** out of them without even giving fuel dilution a single thought.

Take advantage of the warranty if needed by keeping good documentation.
Change the oil/filter a bit sooner.
Do more long(er) trips to burn off some of that fuel dilution in the oil.
Consider using (Oh, IDK) a slightly heavier grade oil if allowable…I know, I know, HONDA only allows for 0W20.

You list 2 2020 CR-Vs in your signature. Are they both experiencing fuel dilution in the oil?

Personally, there aren’t too many Toyota vehicles that I’d choose over a HONDA.
 
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You have a 7 year warranty. If something goes wrong then have them fix it. To get rid of a car solely due to UOA's and fuel dilution is very foolish. UOA's will never tell you the full story. I am willing to bet that even with that much fuel dilution that Honda will easily go over 100K miles with little to no problems at all.

Easily over 100K? That's what you think makes a vehicle worth keeping?
 
Each and every one of our different vehicles has specific "needs" and requirements that may not match the manual. My F150 ecoboost ABSOLUTELY dilutes the oil with fuel and being in South Florida, does better with a higher viscosity. This is no surprise. What is interesting is that there are plenty of 3.5EB owners with failed timing chains and cam phasers at 100K miles, and they "wonder" how on earth this could happen... Answer, chains last longest with CLEAN 30 viscosity oil. Answer: Ultra thin oil, significantly contaminated with particulates and containing raw fuel or a high percentage of fuel evaporates, simply is not up to the task with some engines. Despite a glowing UOA.

People truly believe that oil can go 10,000 miles or more between changes because the UOA results show the oil to be in good shape and wear metals to be low. Yet they completely ignore the fact that significant fuel gets past the rings, into the oil, evaporates and leaves non-oil contaminates. Ever wonder why some engines seem to use no oil? This can be one reason, the oil consumed is replaced by evaporated fuel components.

With some engines, it's a good idea to choose the right oil and change it frequently. Turbocharged, direct injected engines are often on this list. It should come as no surprise that quick spooling turbo's produce high cylinder pressures from just above idle, direct injection sprays raw fuel into the cylinder, some fuel gets past the low tension piston rings and so on.

And yes, a viscosity increase can effectively offset fuel dilution.
Yes, I agree. I dump my Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro oil at 3,500 to 3,750 winter or summer. Nothing goes in my car below a HTHS 3.5. Winter I have high fuel dilution (short tripping in Minnesota). Summer I have more events of a glowing red turbo since I am hitting the corners more. I also dump early since Hyundai's are hard on oil and a healthy timing change is on the top of my list too. Cleaner oil is the cost of doing business to keep a healthy tuner car healthy.
 
I would get a MityVac and a bunch of Kirkland motor oil. Suck out that oil evert 5k and swap the filter every 2nd or 3rd service.
Easy peasy.
 
I would get a MityVac and a bunch of Kirkland motor oil. Suck out that oil evert 5k and swap the filter every 2nd or 3rd service.
Easy peasy.
“Situation: I'm 74, live in a townhouse and am unable physically to do my own oil changes.”

not easy. o.p. is pretty much limited to a dealer or independent garage.
 
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