Considering a thicker oil

[Ponchinizo]

I have a 09 Corolla with the 1.8 2ZR-FE engine, 170k miles. I've been running 20 weight oil(always synthetic), and am seeing about 1qt every 2500 miles of oil consumption. I've been using high mileage oils (pennzoil and valvoline) for a minor leak, which has just about stopped.

Would a jump up to a 5w-30 be appropriate for slowing that oil consumption? International owners manual states 30 weights are ok in this engine. I'm sure my tolerances have loosened up with the miles, which is another factor that makes me want to move up a grade.

 

[StevieC]

Considering the leak, the mileage and the consumption a 30wt might be a good move however just to be sure it's not PCV related has this been replaced with an OEM one?

 

[Ponchinizo]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Considering the leak, the mileage and the consumption a 30wt might be a good move however just to be sure it's not PCV related has this been replaced with an OEM one?


Yes it has, at 163k I did the PCV and intake manifold gasket. Consumption didn't change after and the valve moved freely when I replaced it. It burned slightly more maxlife 0w20 then it did PPHM 0w20.

 

[StevieC]

I'd switch to a 30wt then and give it a try, high mileage should resist burn-off better. Thicker won't hurt so long as it's not overly thick which a 30wt in a 20wt application wouldn't be.

 

[ka9mnx]

5w-30 would be a fine choice. But not for oil consumption unless it's slipping past the rings.

 

[Ponchinizo]

Thank you for your advice. I'm a ways off from my next OCI but I'll try to update the thread once i get the new oil in. Likely going to be M1HM because there's a $12 rebate, which is my primary decision maker on what brand I use.

 

[Ponchinizo]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
5w-30 would be a fine choice. But not for oil consumption unless it's slipping past the rings.


It may be slipping by the rings, maybe this change will give me some information! If consumption goes down I'll assume I've got some carboned up oil control rings and look into cleaners or flushes. Probably will continue 5w30 regardless for the loosened tolerances, mpg is not much of an issue, I average 30mpg as it is.

 

[geeman789]

I switched from a 5w20 to M1 0w40 in a Honda Odyssey, trying to reduce oil consumption. The motor seemed very happy on the thicker oil, consumption dropped by 1/2, and the engine seemed much quieter. I continued to use 0w40 until I sold the van after 9 years and 150 k miles.

 

[sloinker]

Try this if you think its carbon on the oil control rings...
https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/valvoline-877377/premium-blue-restore-10w30-gallon-p-vvl-877377

 

[burla]

Don't be afraid of the 0w40's that are in the cSt range 12-13 ish. I'd look at high hths formulas, and would consider the 0w40's as well. Basically, they are 5w30's in use, but tend to have more additives as they don't have the same rules governing their formula.

They actually have a firmware update for this, check it out. I've been using 5w30 PUP in the rav 4 same year, not losing any oil on the stick.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by sloinker
Try this if you think its carbon on the oil control rings...
https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/valvoline-877377/premium-blue-restore-10w30-gallon-p-vvl-877377

That might work. From JAG's threads on it, and the nice fleet powerpoint slides saying it attacks ring carbon, .... its a good idea to try.
That engine is the infamous one that can get stuck rings. Another solution is to tear it down and clean the pistons, drilling in bigger piston oil flow holes, expensive.
I like the RyderFleet internet supply route, although I guess Cummins service centers can get it too.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...arbon-cleaning-valvoline-premium-restore
From another thread on it:
Originally Posted by Pajero
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Valvoline Premium Blue Restore. It has to say "Restore" in the name or it's not the right product.

It's designed specifically to clean heavy carbon from the ring packs in Cummins ISX engines.

Hideously expensive, largely because it has more ester content than pretty much any oil you can buy. Has to be purchased through a Cummins distributor; it's normally sold as a service event rather than an oil per se, but apparently Cummins distributors will sell it.

Hard to imagine there's anything out there that'll be as effective.


Yes, it's $73.00 a gallon at Cummins in Albuquerque!


Respectfully,

Pajero!

 

[Ponchinizo]

That Valvoline Restore oil sure looks interesting! I just might have to give that a try, should I run a more robust filter if and when I use it? I am currently using the Toyota 04512-YZZA6.

Knowing this engines notoriety for stuck rings, and my less than stellar maintenance history (I only "got wise" and learned to fix and maintain it my [censored] self a year and a half ago) running that oil sounds like a great idea with no real downsides to me! Besides a downside for my wallet, $75 a gallon! Cheaper than a rebuild anyday though.

 

[addyguy]

A HM 10W-30 or a HDEO 10W-30 for the summer would be a good choice. Lower NOAK may help reduce consumption.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
... That engine is the infamous one that can get stuck rings. Another solution is to tear it down and clean the pistons, drilling in bigger piston oil flow holes, expensive. ...
Exactly, especially the '09s. Toyota had a service campaign to fix it at their expense, if consumption is (or was?) proven bad enough.

My niece just bought a 2013 Corolla, which I hope doesn't have that problem as it accumulates miles (now ~95k), although it's not clear whether the later ones are really less susceptible. Prii with the similar engine (2ZR-FXE vs. 2ZR-FE) often exhibit the same issue. Mine doesn't, so far.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Ponchinizo
That Valvoline Restore oil sure looks interesting! I just might have to give that a try, should I run a more robust filter if and when I use it? I am currently using the Toyota 04512-YZZA6.
Yes, maybe switch to a Fram Ultra. It can hold more than most other oil filters before clogging, and is wire-backed to take the chunk-abuse.
I would change the first oil filter early, at 1,000 miles (like Lignums below did), and then at another 3,000 miles accumulated, for a total of 4,000 miles on the oil change, maximum.


Here is an oil filter showing the junk liberated from inside the engine using Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10w30:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...xg3506-valvoline-blue-restore-1000-miles


Black pistons are a problem just about everywhere, although they don't always result in stuck rings & oil consumption of course.
Some pictures:
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Valvoline Premium Blue Restore could be a good answer for the infamous Toyota-Scion oil usage issue, when the piston rings are sticking. Then people might not have to tear the bottom half apart and drill more/bigger piston holes.

... and when using just about any oil, as in the piston below after 20,000 miles using Mobil1 Annual Protection:

I'll be using VPBR (which does not stand for Valvoline Pabst Blue Ribbon, BTW....) every 75,000 miles just to get rid of piston carbon, summer-fill only since this VPBR is a little thick, not too bad though.

Originally Posted by Lignums
Originally Posted by WellOiled
So, it looks like this oil and cleanup procedure worked for you?Would you recommend it?

So far, just by decreased oil consumption, the crud already visible on the filter media, yes I would recommend it. Given the condition of each individual motor of course. I do not believe that this oil is a sludge remover, there was no evidence in the filter, or my drain pan of any sludgey substance. The only evidence of any cleaning was in the filter media, in the form of carbon particles. Each motor will have its individual issues. Mine was 99% related to carboned up rings, from my own research and the GM mechanic. For those motors that have carbon buildup issues I am positive it will help in that area.

 

[Ponchinizo]

Wow thank you for all that information on Valvoline Pabst Blue Ribbon

I'm sold, consumption isn't terrible right now but the engine is old enough to justify a good cleaning. It was neglected running cheap conventional earlier in it's life. I've never seen an oil actually clean like that.

 

[benjy]

ester base oils are said to be good cleaners, expensive but cheaper than the specialty stuff mentioned

 

[OilUzer]

"Considering a thicker oil" is never a bad idea if dealing with anything less than x30

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by benjy
ester base oils are said to be good cleaners, expensive but cheaper than the specialty stuff mentioned
VPBR, with its aniline point (chemistry geeky stuff), and their patents, Class 8 truck market demands, and other "proof" of the secret sauce, make it a cut above Redline or Motul or other partial-POE typical oils.

VPBR would make a good racing oil since it has a lot of POE+PAO base oils, plus a stout HD additive package. HTHS is a little high, yet OK in many racing applications.