consensus on when to dump factory fill?

[Durango]

Originally Posted By: JDD
What is the general consensus on when to dump the factory fill? I just did my 2010 Mazda3 2.0 at 1300 miles. Also, what is Mazda's factory fill oil, and is there any interest in my posting pics here of the opened oil filter element?


JDD,

I'd run the factory fill to it's fullest and do your OCI when it's scheduled. After all oil is oil. Then put in what ever oil you like wether it be dino or synthetic.

Durango

 

[Saturn_Fan]

Dumped mine at around 1200 IIRC on my 08 Corolla and then went with Pennzoil conventional therafter. Almost at 20K miles on it and runs like a top.

Never did have one drop of oil loss, even during the first couple of thousand miles. I thought for sure I would lose a little bit as it broke in.

I dumped my factory fill as I know for a fact the car I bought sat on the lot for quite awhile and through two seasons. No telling what kind of condensation had made its way in. I couldn't wait to dump it and put new oil in it.

 

[wjli]

the filter will stop the bad stuff (break in material) up till the first scheduled oci, right??

then again, what is with all of the uoa's that show the increased break in of a new engine, verses a 100,000 mile vehicle that doesnt hardly shed anything.

are the particles in the uoa small enough to go through the filter? if so, are they large enough to hurt bearings?


my new toyota is not due till 5000 miles and i guess i plan to let it go till then.

 

[Malo83]

I did my 08 Malibu 3.6 at 500,1500 and 3K also switching to synthetic at the 3K mark.

 

[Mitch Alsup]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Mitch Alsup
Originally Posted By: StevieC

I drive the FF fill for 500K KM (300K miles)


You mean 500 KM not 500K KM--do you not? 500K KM is 300,000 Miles


My bad... Yes 500 KM not KKM's. Oopsie! I got the flu, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!


So, as a metric user, can I ask you a question?

Why is it that you (as a metric user) would say 100K KM rather than 100M M? I thought the whole purpose of the metric system was to make stable units (the meter: M) and then apply the appropriate prefix (killo:K, mega:M, milli:m) to the stable unit.

 

[mjoekingz28]

What I'd be more concerned with is how are you going to drive it? Im in the boat of doing a few top speed runs within the first hundred miles after it is fully warmed up.

btw, I had a new yzf600r and I kept it below 8k for the first how-ever-many miles while it stated to 'not exceed 8k for a prolonged amount of time'

So, don't rape it but don't lug it and short shift it during break in.


As for the oil, that bike was my first new thing ever and I freaked and changed the oil at like 100 500 and 1000 when just following the manual and changing at 1000 would have probably netted better results.

Good luck with your new vehicle

 

[Eddie]

I have had great success with my cars (125,000 to 176,000 miles) changing out the factory oil at ~ 2,500-3,000 miles. I don't want to change too soon as I wish to keep the factory assembly lubricates in so they can do what their supposed to do, like prevent scuffing etc. My oil filter is there to protect my engine against harmful stuff that might get in the oil stream.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I find it interesting that Audi has a 5000 miles for the first change policy and 10k after that.

The new Astra we just got was constructed in 2007 and it had 200 miles on it with the OLM at zero. Since it's a Euro car it probally came with synth oil in it, and with 1000 miles now....I'm keeping it in! Synth oil makes the difference here for me. Whatever happened with the oil already happened and it's cleaned of moisture and fuel now after driving it. No since dropping it. Running to 3k only though.

What I'm advising people is to leave the FF in and only change early if the engine is burning oil. I figure the blowby and stuff associated with consumptionis a good reason to change.

 

[Miata04]

In my Hondas, at least the ones since 1995, the dealer has VERY firmly suggested leaving the factory fill in for 5,000 mi. I, Like many others wanted to get "all that junk that the factory leaves in" out ASAP. Well, from what I've learned Honda doesn't have much, if any, machining debris in their engines. I have followed the 5K schedule fairly rigidly, after the factory fill goes at 5K, M1 5W-20 & an M1 110 filter go on and then thereafter every 5k. My local Advance & Pep Boys seem to have the M1 "deal" (5 qts M1 & M1 Filter for $30) often enough so that if I buy ahead 1-2 changes for both my Civic & Accord, it works out. Just as a point of interest, both of our Hondas have magnetic drain plugs and they were checked at the initial 5K change........nothing! I have never added a drop between changes with either, the Accord is my wife's "around town" car (she's retired) and the Civic is mostly highway use. Have never had an engine problem related to anything lubricated by M1 as long as I have been using it (about 16 years)

2002 Honda Accord Coupe SE 4-cyl Auto 60K
2006 Honda Civic Coupe EX 4-cyl Auto 75K
2004 Mazda Miata LS 4-cyl 6-peed Manual 12K (M1 0W-30)

 

[Durango]

Since allot of new cars has some form of oil life monitors now it appears to me that to change ones oil early around the 3K mark is old stuff now. My manual says not to change my oil unless the indicator tell me too. In this new reading I've decided to wait and change the FF oil in my newly bought 08' Impala SS when it reaches close to the 6K mark. GM says engines are now made different and can go the extra distance with ease. That way I don't risk my factory warranty if anything happens with in the next 3K on my car. When the time comes I'll switch over to a good synthetic at the 6K mark.

Trust your oil life monitors and it'll help you save some bucks.

Durango