Owner of 2018 Pilot. Placed a VCM disabler at 400 miles - I have confirmed with an OBDII reader that VCM is disabled >95% of the time. I plan on running the factory fill until the first MM-indicated oil change. I have spent days looking through these forums and I have to admit my head is spinning. Is there any consensus on which oil/filter combo does best in the Honda 3.5L J-series engines? Assume cost is not an issue. Any help/opinions greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!
Consensus on Honda J-series engines
- Thread starter PWMDMD
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JHZR2
Staff member
We run a VCM disabler in ours (Odyssey), and generally get 5-6k mile OCIs.
Run whichever 0w-20 you desire and can find at a good price with confidence. If you're going to leave the filter on for two intervals like I do, I'd do the A service (the one with just oil, not filter changed) with the same oil as went in last time.
Given that you're in MA, summer heat isn't a huge issue and winter cold can be pretty cold but not extreme. I wouldnt sweat running a synthetic like VAS 5w-20, which has a great NOACK value, but I'd probably run 0w-20 for the receipts for warranty purposes.
Run whichever 0w-20 you desire and can find at a good price with confidence. If you're going to leave the filter on for two intervals like I do, I'd do the A service (the one with just oil, not filter changed) with the same oil as went in last time.
Given that you're in MA, summer heat isn't a huge issue and winter cold can be pretty cold but not extreme. I wouldnt sweat running a synthetic like VAS 5w-20, which has a great NOACK value, but I'd probably run 0w-20 for the receipts for warranty purposes.
I put a VCMTuner on my Odyssey about 2 months after I bought it, best purchase ever. I got really good UOA results with Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W40, but that's too thick for warranty on yours. I would use PP 5W20 or any other good 5W20 synthetic, and you can't go wrong with a Fram Ultra. XG3593A is what goes on my J35A7 in the Odyssey.
Wow J-engine still going strong after 22 years.
Consider this: there is no timing chain or engine oil lubricated timing components to worry about on a J35
Consider this: there is no timing chain or engine oil lubricated timing components to worry about on a J35
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
Very interesting.
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
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Yeah the J35 is a nice engine without VCM, my Odyssey is an 2006 and 167k miles. It was initially bought new by my friend, then given to his in-laws and moved to Phoenix, and then I bought it with 134k. There is definitely varnish from whatever quick-changes put in for its first 10 years of life, but other than that the engine was great other than VCM. Transmission was definitely neglected and flaring upshifts and banging downshifts when we got it, but 4 D&Fs with Maxlife ATF have cleaned it up nicely, and now I do a 1-gal D&F every 15k to keep the notorious BGRA trans in decent shape.
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
Complains about VW reliability
Buys car that needs mods right off the bat due to bad design and calls it an "educated risk"
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
Complains about VW reliability
Buys car that needs mods right off the bat due to bad design and calls it an "educated risk"
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine.
Running what oil in the 2009?
VCM doesn't worry me necessarily. I just don't like the feel of engagement on the highway. I usually run it for in town use, but disable VCM on road trips. It's so easy to swap.
The mounts are a bit of a consideration;I hear they are $$, but I'd probably look into swapping them with the TB anyway.
Frankly if you're only going to keep this one 90k like the last, I'd just run whatever is cheapest that meets the spec. With SN plus, oils should be pretty stout.
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine.
Running what oil in the 2009?
VCM doesn't worry me necessarily. I just don't like the feel of engagement on the highway. I usually run it for in town use, but disable VCM on road trips. It's so easy to swap.
The mounts are a bit of a consideration;I hear they are $$, but I'd probably look into swapping them with the TB anyway.
Frankly if you're only going to keep this one 90k like the last, I'd just run whatever is cheapest that meets the spec. With SN plus, oils should be pretty stout.
Thanks. Good luck with your new Honda!
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
Complains about VW reliability
Buys car that needs mods right off the bat due to bad design and calls it an "educated risk"
The current implementation of VCM is very different than the what was implemented in the last generation Pilots. The prior generation ran in 3, 4 and 6-cylinder mode and appearently it was 4-cylinder mode that was the biggest issue. The currently only runs in 3 and 6-cylinder mode. My guess is disabling VCM is overkill for these engines but it’s simple and I like to tinker. I know two people with Atlas - one has electrical gremlins that the dealer can’t figure out and the other had the 3.6L replaced at 8K.
I’m lucky in that I’ve owned many cars in my life (Acura, Volvo, Audi, Honda, Mazda, Subaru, Toyota) and I have never had to bring a car in for anything other than routine maintanence. I’m just maximizing my chances for no issues....
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine. That was maintained on Valvoline Syn/filters completed at Valvoline oil change shops following the MM intervals.
Complains about VW reliability
Buys car that needs mods right off the bat due to bad design and calls it an "educated risk"
The current implementation of VCM is very different than the what was implemented in the last generation Pilots. The prior generation ran in 3, 4 and 6-cylinder mode and appearently it was 4-cylinder mode that was the biggest issue. The currently only runs in 3 and 6-cylinder mode. My guess is disabling VCM is overkill for these engines but it’s simple and I like to tinker. I know two people with Atlas - one has electrical gremlins that the dealer can’t figure out and the other had the 3.6L replaced at 8K.
I’m lucky in that I’ve owned many cars in my life (Acura, Volvo, Audi, Honda, Mazda, Subaru, Toyota) and I have never had to bring a car in for anything other than routine maintanence. I’m just maximizing my chances for no issues....
J35Y6 engine here. I don’t intend to install the “disabler” as it may have some side effects such as engine overheating / abnormal thermal regime (since the ECU would be permanently fooled into thinking that the engine is colder than it actually is). Driving in “sport” mode w/o cruize control seems to rarely engage VCM if at all. Traffic here is bad, with crowded roads and variable speed so it all comes naturally. The plan is to have some UOA’s to confirm that there’s nothing weird going in there. If there is, car will be used as trade in before warranty expires. UOAs are harmless, they won’t damage the engine nor void any warranty. There are many happy J35 owners out there, chances are that your particular engine will be well behaved. I hope mine is. Also for at least 6 months per year here, a 0w20 oil seems like a reasonable recommandation. Still trying to decide if a 0w30 or 5w30 weight would work well during summer.
To address the previous question: yes I did know of VCM before purchase, I decided it can’t be that bad, and if it proves to be, Honda / Acura can recall as the fix can be as simple as an ECU reflash that changes the VCM activations rules. With no VCM activated, the engine is a beauty.
To address the previous question: yes I did know of VCM before purchase, I decided it can’t be that bad, and if it proves to be, Honda / Acura can recall as the fix can be as simple as an ECU reflash that changes the VCM activations rules. With no VCM activated, the engine is a beauty.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine.
Running what oil in the 2009?
VCM doesn't worry me necessarily. I just don't like the feel of engagement on the highway. I usually run it for in town use, but disable VCM on road trips. It's so easy to swap.
The mounts are a bit of a consideration;I hear they are $$, but I'd probably look into swapping them with the TB anyway.
Frankly if you're only going to keep this one 90k like the last, I'd just run whatever is cheapest that meets the spec. With SN plus, oils should be pretty stout.
Valvoline synthetic from the Valvoline oil change shops.
Originally Posted By: PWMDMD
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
Did you know about the VCM issues before you bought it?
Very interesting.
I did and I researched all the VCM disablers before purchasing. My kids are very tall and needed an AWD ride with a usable third row. It came down to the Pilot or the VW Atlas and I’m not ready to put VW reliability to the test. So I took an educated risk...
With VCM disabled I’m pretty confident in the 3.5L. I had a 2009 Pilot without the VCM disabled that went 90K under my ownership with no problems. It was a rock solid engine.
Running what oil in the 2009?
VCM doesn't worry me necessarily. I just don't like the feel of engagement on the highway. I usually run it for in town use, but disable VCM on road trips. It's so easy to swap.
The mounts are a bit of a consideration;I hear they are $$, but I'd probably look into swapping them with the TB anyway.
Frankly if you're only going to keep this one 90k like the last, I'd just run whatever is cheapest that meets the spec. With SN plus, oils should be pretty stout.
Valvoline synthetic from the Valvoline oil change shops.
Originally Posted By: nap
J35Y6 engine here. I don’t intend to install the “disabler” as it may have some side effects such as engine overheating / abnormal thermal regime (since the ECU would be permanently fooled into thinking that the engine is colder than it actually is). Driving in “sport” mode w/o cruize control seems to rarely engage VCM if at all. Traffic here is bad, with crowded roads and variable speed so it all comes naturally. The plan is to have some UOA’s to confirm that there’s nothing weird going in there. If there is, car will be used as trade in before warranty expires. UOAs are harmless, they won’t damage the engine nor void any warranty. There are many happy J35 owners out there, chances are that your particular engine will be well behaved. I hope mine is. Also for at least 6 months per year here, a 0w20 oil seems like a reasonable recommandation. Still trying to decide if a 0w30 or 5w30 weight would work well during summer.
To address the previous question: yes I did know of VCM before purchase, I decided it can’t be that bad, and if it proves to be, Honda / Acura can recall as the fix can be as simple as an ECU reflash that changes the VCM activations rules. With no VCM activated, the engine is a beauty.
In researching the VCM disablers I feel comfortable with the method used. The only thing adding resistance to the engine coolant sensor does is proportionally decrease the “measured” coolant temp. So in my case 100 ohms reduced my measured coolant temp by 20F from 182F to 162F. I have an OBDII reader hooked up and can read the “adjusted or measured” coolant temp anytime but also made note of the temperature gage. If I ever see the OBD actually reading 182F or the temperature gage in the pre-VCM disabled position I know the engine is running hot. FWIW...it’s been 100% stable with the VCM disabler and only fluctuates from a measured temp of 162 to 167F depending on city vs highway driving.
I know...not going to change your mind....but maybe a helpful discussion for others.
J35Y6 engine here. I don’t intend to install the “disabler” as it may have some side effects such as engine overheating / abnormal thermal regime (since the ECU would be permanently fooled into thinking that the engine is colder than it actually is). Driving in “sport” mode w/o cruize control seems to rarely engage VCM if at all. Traffic here is bad, with crowded roads and variable speed so it all comes naturally. The plan is to have some UOA’s to confirm that there’s nothing weird going in there. If there is, car will be used as trade in before warranty expires. UOAs are harmless, they won’t damage the engine nor void any warranty. There are many happy J35 owners out there, chances are that your particular engine will be well behaved. I hope mine is. Also for at least 6 months per year here, a 0w20 oil seems like a reasonable recommandation. Still trying to decide if a 0w30 or 5w30 weight would work well during summer.
To address the previous question: yes I did know of VCM before purchase, I decided it can’t be that bad, and if it proves to be, Honda / Acura can recall as the fix can be as simple as an ECU reflash that changes the VCM activations rules. With no VCM activated, the engine is a beauty.
In researching the VCM disablers I feel comfortable with the method used. The only thing adding resistance to the engine coolant sensor does is proportionally decrease the “measured” coolant temp. So in my case 100 ohms reduced my measured coolant temp by 20F from 182F to 162F. I have an OBDII reader hooked up and can read the “adjusted or measured” coolant temp anytime but also made note of the temperature gage. If I ever see the OBD actually reading 182F or the temperature gage in the pre-VCM disabled position I know the engine is running hot. FWIW...it’s been 100% stable with the VCM disabler and only fluctuates from a measured temp of 162 to 167F depending on city vs highway driving.
I know...not going to change your mind....but maybe a helpful discussion for others.
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Sure, but in boat use the engine will be run much harder for much longer than it will be in any road vehicle.
Comparing apples to oranges.
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Sure, but in boat use the engine will be run much harder for much longer than it will be in any road vehicle.
Comparing apples to oranges.
They are Rock solid! I used to buy and sell Honda/Acura's so I've had atleast 200 of them, they are my personal favorite. I currently have a 2003 Acura TL type-S J32A2, 260hp, 7400rpm's, no VCM, has 235k miles, runs Supertech 5w20 syn, still runs like a "new" swiss watch!
My 2006 Honda Accord is also a J30, 255hp, 7000rpm's, with VCM, runs great. PUP 5w20, 133k miles.
I have seen both of these engines and the J35's in all forms in the 400k plus miles at salvage auction which means they most likely were driving and not parked when they were crashed. How many other engines have that type of reputation? Some, but not many.
My 2006 Honda Accord is also a J30, 255hp, 7000rpm's, with VCM, runs great. PUP 5w20, 133k miles.
I have seen both of these engines and the J35's in all forms in the 400k plus miles at salvage auction which means they most likely were driving and not parked when they were crashed. How many other engines have that type of reputation? Some, but not many.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Sure, but in boat use the engine will be run much harder for much longer than it will be in any road vehicle.
Comparing apples to oranges.
I used to drive my Acura TL-S back and forth lower California to the very top of Idaho, 1420 miles, average speed 75 to 85mph only stop for fuel, 18 hours straight on 5w20 dino. Drove thru Montana, Utah, Nevada, and California desert in the summer. Oil is not an issue, unless your engine runs out of it!
That said, I would run 10w30 in the lower states any time of the year provided it was synthetic.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Sure, but in boat use the engine will be run much harder for much longer than it will be in any road vehicle.
Comparing apples to oranges.
I used to drive my Acura TL-S back and forth lower California to the very top of Idaho, 1420 miles, average speed 75 to 85mph only stop for fuel, 18 hours straight on 5w20 dino. Drove thru Montana, Utah, Nevada, and California desert in the summer. Oil is not an issue, unless your engine runs out of it!
That said, I would run 10w30 in the lower states any time of the year provided it was synthetic.
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Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Shannow don't !!!
Why not, Honda manuals are easily available from all over the world, and owners are generally aware that manuals from other continents than North America are more generous with their engine oil viscosity recommendations.
I promise to not get shocked by anything up to 40 weight
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Marine version of that Engine, Honda specifies a 10W30 with high HTHS.
Shannow don't !!!
Why not, Honda manuals are easily available from all over the world, and owners are generally aware that manuals from other continents than North America are more generous with their engine oil viscosity recommendations.
I promise to not get shocked by anything up to 40 weight
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